Madrid at Your Fingertips
By Walter Glaser
 I
am staying at the Hotel Orfila in Madrid, a charming, very personalised
“watering hole for those in the know” that is home to my explorations. Although
I have been to Spain many times before, this is my first time in Madrid, and
this city has very quickly captured my heart and mind. It is far more
sophisticated than I had imagined, far more elegant and a little slower than
hustling, bustling Barcelona, and is also an architectural delight, with many
buildings reminiscent of both Paris and Vienna.
For those who, like myself, had always headed for the Costa
Del Sol and the marvellous resorts there, a week in Madrid will add ambience and
serendipity to their foray into Spain. So here are a few ideas and some
background information which will hopefully maximise the pleasures of a visit to
that surprise-filled city.
Background
 Spain’s
capital city, Madrid is home to a population of more than 3.5 million people. A
fascinating blend of the modern and the historic, Madrid can trace its heritage
back to AD 854 when it is said that a fortress known as Magerit was established
here by the Emir of Cordoba. Madrid remained a Muslim town until 1085 when King
Alfonso VI of Castile took over the reins. By 1561, Madrid was the seat of the
Royal Court, and by the 19th Century the city was home to many grand monuments.
Today they stand as a testament to a rich and varied past. But modern Madrid is
much more than what has gone before. It is a vibrant centre of culture, food and
the arts. For anyone planning a trip to Spain, Madrid should be treated as a
“must see”.
Sightseeing
 The
Main Square, or Plaza Mayor, is a great place to start your sightseeing around
Madrid. Designed by Juan Gomez de Mora and officially opened in 1620, the
stone-paved Plaza Mayor once housed a marketplace. In times gone by also
attracted crowds to watch bullfights and public executions, which included the
ritual condemnation of heretics, a practice that commonly ended by burning them
at the stake. Luckily, times have changed and people now come here to enjoy the
great al fresco dining, and to explore the myriad of shops found beneath the
arcades. The more shops you see the more you will be noticing that this is
arguably the only city with as many shops for men’s fashion as for ladies’
boutiques.
 A
glance at the business men walking on the street will explain why. Madrid’s
males are arguably the best dressed and groomed in Europe, and most look
impeccable, with designer-suits and high quality, freshly polished shoes.
From the Main Square make your way to the Plaza de la Villa
(Town Square) where you will see the 15th Century Lujan Palace and Tower. Next,
head towards the Plaza del Conde Miranda and stop by the Convent of the
Carboneras, which dates from 1607 and now displays some fascinating artworks.
 But
this is just a stop on the way to the 18th Century St Michael’s Basilica, a
Baroque building with an excellent curved façade - sure to have you reaching for
your camera. Wander around the medieval back streets here and you’ll find much
more interesting architecture, including Madrid’s only Gothic temple, the
Bishop’s Chapel, and the 15th Century Church of the Old St Peter.
 By
now it may be lunchtime, and you are hungry. If it is a nice day – and in
Madrid most days are quite delightful – head for the Ritz Hotel, but instead of
dining in the more conventional hotel restaurant, opt for the terrace garden
restaurant instead.
This is one of my very favourite lunch venues in the
world. Dining under the elegant umbrellas with wonderful cuisine, impeccable
service, and some of the best people-watching in Madrid is a hard act to match.
 For
this is where you will find the city’s ‘captains of industry’ and ‘movers and
shakers’ doing million-Euro deals over lunch, while some of the most glamourous
society persona might be found at the next table. It is quite an event. Don’t
miss it.
Then, rested and refreshed, perhaps head for the Gran Via.
Here you will find some more imposing and ornate buildings including the late
18th Century Oratory of Caballero de Gracia and the Church of St Marks where
worshippers have gathered since 1753. It is now a national monument.
 Be
sure to slip inside and view the beautiful paintings on the vault. Glance
skywards while walking along this street and you’ll see Madrid’s first
skyscraper, built in 1929 and one of just a number of interesting 20th Century
buildings in Gran Via.
To get a true insight into how the Spanish Royal family
lived, take a look around the Palacio Real. Charles III was the first king to
take up residence here way back in 1714. The palace itself is an excellent
Italian Baroque style structure with some beautiful rooms including the Throne
Hall. The lovely gardens are also a highlight of a visit here.
Art and Museums
 Madrid
boasts a large number of museums, and is recognised as having one of the best
collections of art museums of any European city. Of these, two stand out as
highlights - the Museo del Prado (Prado Museum) at Paseo del Prado contains more
than 7,000 artworks, including an exceptional collection of 17th and 18th
Century Spanish paintings and is a ‘must see’ for any traveller to this city.
The building itself was completed in 1785 and since 1819 it has been a museum
storing and displaying the art of the Spanish royal collections. Featured
artists include Goya, Velazquez, Raphael, Rubens, Rembrant and Dürer. It also
has what may well be the finest collection of Bosch and Bruegel in the world.
 If
your artistic appetite hasn’t quite been satisfied after viewing the Prado’s
collection, then you might like to visit the Centro de Arte Reina Sofia at Plaza
Santa Isabel. This converted 18th Century hospital displays modern Spanish art,
including Salvador Dali and Vassily Kandinsky as well as the painting ‘Guernica’
by Picasso. More fine artworks, sourced from a mixed private collection, are
also displayed at the Thyssen Bornemisza Museum.
Treasures from Ancient Egypt, Greece, Rome as well as old
Spain can be found at the Museo Arqueologico Nacional at Calle Serano, which had
its origins way back in 1867 when it was founded by Royal Decree.
Sport and entertainment
 Madrid
may not be home to the famous ‘Running of the Bulls’ but this city does play
host to Las Ventos, Spain’s largest bullfighting ring. Watching the matadors
waving that red rag at a bull mightn’t be to everyone’s liking, but this is very
much a part of Spanish culture so if you are in Madrid during bullfighting
season (which runs from March to October, with daily bullfights from March to
mid-June), it might be worth heading for the stands to catch a bullfight
firsthand.
The other major sporting interest worth mentioning is
soccer, and this city is home to the ever successful Real Madrid football club,
where in recent times stars like David Beckham and Brazil’s Ronaldo have played
their club football. But spare a thought to the other hometown team, Atletico
Madrid. Its trophy cabinet may not be as full as Real Madrid’s, but the team
still has plenty of local support.
Dining
 The
wide-ranging origins of Madrid’s inhabitants have enriched the city’s palette
with a diverse range of culinary styles. Leave the serious foodies to debate the
merits of whether or not Madrid actually has its own style of cuisine, and let
your taste buds explore a selection of the city’s many restaurants. Of course,
here, as is the case through Spain, tapas are a staple part of the menu.
 Tapas
bars can be found throughout the city’s streets so find yourself a table, order
a glass of beer and wine and set to work sampling some of the savoury appetisers
that make up a tapas meal. But be warned! Order a small beer or you may get
one the size of a minor swimming pool. With the tapas also, check size and
price before ordering. Last time there we ordered five dishes on one occasion,
thinking they would be small samplers, only to find ourselves being served with
five plates each big enough to serve a regiment, and sadly priced accordingly.
Once caught, twice shy!
 There’s
more to Madrid’s gastronomic scene than these delicious samplers. Be sure to
order a plate of seafood at one of Madrid’s better restaurants – baked bream
(look for Besugo al horno on the menu) is one that those in the know recommend.
And don’t forget to try some of the other traditional dishes that have
originated all over the Spanish Peninsula, but have made their homes in kitchens
all over this city. Potato omelette (Tortilla de patatas) and a chickpea and
vegetable stew known as Cocido Madrileno are great choices for main meals, while
for dessert it’s hard to go past marzipan, nougat and ‘bartolillos con crema’, a
cream pie with custard.
 When
eating out in Madrid, just be aware that many restaurants and cafés don’t open
their doors to start serving meals until eight or nine o’clock at night. It just
means there’s all the more time to enjoy the sights of the city really.
Shopping
A good meal of traditional fare should be enough to sustain
you through one of the other great travelling rituals – checking out the local
shopping scene. And from boutiques to markets – and everything in between –
Madrid has something for everyone.
 The
best known flea market in Madrid is the El Rastro Market, which operates between
the Plaza de Cascorro, La Latina and the street of Embajadores Sundays. It’s
easy to spend hours poring over the many treasures for sale here and hard to
keep your wallet in your pocket. (Talking of wallets, keep your valuables in a
money belt. The pickpockets in Spain have PhD’s in this art.) Secondhand
clothing, books, paintings and records will tempt any bargain hunter while at
the upper end of the scale you may find yourself falling in love with some of
the valuable antiques sold here.
 If
you’re looking for something made a lot more recently then the designer shops on
the streets of Conde de Xiquena and Almirante might be more your style. Men’s
wear, women’s fashions and children’s clothes by international and Spanish
designers hang on the racks here. For some smaller souvenirs of your time in
Madrid, head to the Salamanca district and browse through the array of shops
selling leather goods, jewellery and giftware, while the Plaza Mayor is the
ideal place to pick up some traditional fabric, religious items and hats.
Nightlife
 If
you haven’t quite ‘shopped till you’ve dropped’, then, after the sun sets on
another perfect day in the city, there are plenty of reasons to leave that
comfortable hotelroom bed empty for a few more hours and venture out into the
night.
Madrid is a city that really comes to life after dark. For
a good mix of cafés, restaurants and night spots pay a visit to Paseo de
Recoletos, Paseo del Prado or Paseo de la Castellana.
 The
areas of Alonso Martinez, Plaza de Santa Barbara and the Glorieta de Bilbao are
home to many bars, pubs, ice cream parlours and fast food outlets; while for
live music, pull up a chair at a bar of café in Malasana. Not sure exactly where
to go? Your hotel concierge will be able to tell you the best places to eat,
drink, dance and soak in the local atmosphere.
 The
best time to visit Madrid is from March to May and again in October. At these
times of year the weather is pleasant and in May, Madrid’s most popular
festival, the Fiesta de San Isidro begins. It’s a great chance to experience a
unique slice of Madrid’s culture, but be warned, there’ll be plenty of other
people with the same idea, so book ahead to make sure you get accommodation.
There’s so much to see and do in Madrid that you’ll want to
stay a while and will be planning your next trip back as soon as you leave!
Recommendations
 Accommodation:
Hotel Orfila, Orfila, 6, 28010 Madrid.
Tel.: +34 91 702 7770 Fax.: +34 91 702 7772
Email: orfila@relaischateaux.com
Website: http://ww.hotelorfila.com
Restaurant: Terrace Restaurant at the Hotel Ritz
Plaza de la Lealtad 5, 28014 Madrid
Tel: +34 91 701 6767 Fax: +34 91 701 6776
Museum: The Prado Museum
Paseo del Prado, s/n
Madrid 28014 Spain
+1 34 91 330 2800
museo.nacional@prado.mcu.es
Open HoursTu-Su 9a-8p
http://www.museoprado.mcu.es
Transport: Metro: Banco de España y Atocha
stations
Buses: 9, 10, 14, 19, 27, 34, 37 y 45
Nearest rail station: Atocha (walking distance) |
