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From the Age of Enlightenment to the Techno RevolutionDublin, IrelandBy Valerie Summers
As we drove, my cabby directed my attention to several not to be missed city sights including Phoenix, Europe’s largest public park extending three miles along the River Liffey’s north bank, the Writers Museum, Trinity College, the statuary of its famed literary giants and the rows of handsome red brick Georgian townhouses lining the street facing St. Stephen’s Green. My journey ended as we stopped in front of one of the townhouses which he explained were now mostly offices. I observed a simple brass plate designating the entrance to The Merrion hotel, my residence during my stay in Dublin.
My visit began with afternoon tea, served in the warmth of the hotel’s gracious period Drawing Room. Glancing around, I saw a small part of what is one of the finest private art collections in Ireland. Then I was out the door, eager to explore. My walk took me to the beautiful 47 acre campus of the Trinity College, home to the famed 9th century Book of Kells and one of Europe’s largest libraries. Proceeding on to the city’s premier up-market shopping area, Grafton Street, I found it alive with shoppers and lined with smart shops, free standing flower carts and the delightful aroma of freshly brewing coffee. A light rain fell and colorful umbrellas popped up everywhere. That evening I had secured tickets for a performance of Marina Carr’s world premiere of Ariel at the famed Abbey Theatre. Known as “The Mother of the Little Theatres,” once there, I could hardly describe it as little with its 628 seat auditorium. The history of this repertory theatre began in 1904 with the financial help of Englishwoman, A.E. F. Horniman who came to the aid of a group of Irish dramatists and actors. W. B. Yeats, J. M. Synge and Sean O’Casey were among the early literary giants and playwrights who began their careers at The Abbey. More recently, the Abbey’s eclectic productions have included new plays by established writers including Brian Friel, Tom Murphy, Bernard Farrell and Hugh Leonard, along with new productions of the classics.
More famous names were enshrined in the Dublin Writers Museum, housed in a splendidly restored Georgian mansion in the north city center. Irish literary tradition is one of the most illustrious in the world and includes Nobel prize winners and many other writers of international renown. The collection features the lives and works of Dublin literary celebrities over the past 300 years through books, letters, portraits and personal items. The history of these giants of the literary world overwhelmed me as I ambled past the exhibits of George Bernard Shaw, Jonathan Swift, James Joyce, Samuel Beckett, William Butler Yeats, Oscar Wilde and other literary giants. After my excursions around the city, I always worked up an appetite in time for dinner. Mealtime in and around Dublin was always a treat, from the Irish Stew at County Wicklow’s Roundwood Inn, a popular, cozy country pub, and favorite hideaway of Bono, to the celebrated Michelin Star Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud at The Merrion. At the latter, I dined in a setting of understated elegance. The exquisite table settings, impeccable service and above all, the artistic presentations and exceptional tastes made it a memorable dining experience.
There was so much more to see but I had enjoyed a fine taste of Dublin’s past and its present. A decade ago, there was no market in this depressed city for private apartments. Today, developers are in line to join the urban renewal. Fortunately a substantial quantity of Georgian-style architecture and other examples of days long ago is still evident. With its vast carefully planned spacious public squares and parks, wide thoroughfares, regal structures and the ghosts of its romantic past, much of Dublin remains a city which sprang from centuries past with a heart beating with the rhythms of the 21st century. The Merrion Hotel Dublin Tourism Centre Irish Georgian society Abbey Theatre Aer Lingus provides direct service to Ireland
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My first visit to Ireland took me on an unforgettable
journey by horseback along its rugged western coast, through the desolate
Burren and across the lush landscape, stopping at quaint villages along the
way. On my recent return, I experienced an entirely different face of the
Emerald Isle in its vibrant capital city. Dublin, in the past decade, has
emerged as one of the cutting edge centers of Europe. Touring the city by
cab en route to my hotel, I was struck by its charm. Acres of greenery,
huge, wide streets, architecture from centuries past and obvious design
statements in its newer buildings as a thoroughly modern metropolis. I
would later discover some of the architectural history of the city and all
that it implies, from an elegant 18th century cultural center to the heart
of the 21st century Irish techno-revolution.
The understated facade of the four townhouses which had
been integrated into this five star hotel took me by surprise. This,
however, was merely my introduction to the elegant simplicity of 18th
century Georgian architecture and its lavish interiors.
The following day, I arranged for an architectural
tour, including some history, of the intriguing Georgian terraces (attached
apartments). Conveniently, it began at my hotel where I entered Mornington
House, now used as a suite for meetings and private rooms for the hotel, but
which was, at one time, home to the Duke of Wellington. The highly polished
railings of a ornate staircase and vaulted ceilings trimmed with intricate
Rococo plasterwork greeted me as we entered. Once inside, I climbed to the
second floor to view the six beautifully restored salons decorated with
priceless mirrors and artwork. Exiting to the street, we sauntered on
past Oscar Wilde’s house and then on to what was once the home of Daniel
O’Connell, known as The Great Liberator. As we walked my guide explained
the subtleties and history of Georgian architecture and the hand which the
Honorable Desmond Guinness and his wife Mariga had in preserving these 18th
century landmarks. Further along, we passed the homes of two Nobel
prizewinners, Erwin Scrodinger and William Butler Yeats, finally ending our
excursion at The James Joyce Centre where I viewed family portraits, The
Guinness Reference Library and more of the ornamental 18th century
plasterwork.
The name Guinness had other implications, so I
continued on to visit the enormous Guinness Storehouse. Set in the center of
the world’s most famous breweries, it has become one of Dublin’s main
tourist attractions. I made my way to the top floor lounge which offered
the best views in the city and was presented a complimentary frosty pint of
authentic Guinness beer, with a clover magically etched in the foam. Pub
crawling is a part of Irish life, and I was not one to shirk the
experience. There were Literary Pub Crawls, Musical Pub Crawls and basic on
your own pub crawls. I visited Mulligans, a city center spot, popular with
tourists, journalists, sportsmen and literati, then on to O’Donoghue’s,
where Irish fiddlers played in the corner of the smoky, crowded pub, filled
with friendly, smiling faces. Later I popped into The Cellar Bar where a
sophisticated crowd sipped cocktails in Lord Mornington’s original 18th
century wine vaults.
I arose early the next morning to take a short walk
from my hotel to St. Stephen’s Green. In the midst of the commercial and
government area, Europe’s largest square offered respite from busy days
beneath the sheltering trees, down flower lined walkways, fountains and a
placid lake dotted with a variety of birds. Throughout the park, I saw
commemorative statuary and later learned that the fun loving Irish have
given naughty nicknames to those stone images. 
Each morning, I enjoyed a full breakfast in the comfort
of my luxurious suite over looking the grand Leinster House, a handsome
Palladian palace built in 1745 for James Fitzgerald, the Earl of Kildare,
and now the seat of Parliament. Dublin’s rich history was etched in the
furnishing and decor of my room, integrated with every imaginable amenity,
technology and service. I basked in the atmosphere of luxury which Lord
Monck, the original owner of these Georgian townhouses, extended to his
guests more than two centuries ago.