Under Maui’s Deep Blue
by Jamie Ross
 It was a perfect day on the
water. Beneath a cloudless sky the ocean was a deep blue. We anchored the
dive boat in the calm waters of a sheltered bay next to a large pinnacle of
lava rock that jutted from the sea, some 100 metres from the shores of Lunai.
This renowned Hawaiian dive location is known as Cathedral 1. When we hit
the water, we quickly found out why.
A chimney-shaped cone of lava rock rises from the ocean floor, 50 feet to
the surface. It resembles a divine sanctum, a churchly chamber with glorious
archways and beams of heavenly light spotlighting the interior. The divers
float through a sweeping coral arch, and enter a roomy undersea chamber lit
by light filtering through fissures in the rocky dome ceiling.
It is a secret place, awe-inspiring and spiritual. We spend some time
floating weightlessly around the interior of the cathedral, watching our
bubbles rise, caught in the pinpoints of light. Colourful fish swim amongst
us, seemingly unperturbed by our intrusion. A small oval porthole leads out
of the chamber, We ready ourselves, grasping the rocky sides, until the
surge of the sea allows for our graceful exit.
Around the outside of the lava spire, eels hide in broken crevasses. One
Viper eel waves its brawny neck, with mouth open as a warning. The colour of
the coral is of infinite variety; brown, white, pink, red, purple, and the
shapes it took are marvellous. It was like a colourful garden, and a
splendid variety of fish flittered through like butterflies. The water was
dazzlingly clear, and where there was breaks in the corral, the ocean floor
was white sand.
The dive master, Trent Welsh, suddenly darts after a retreating octopus,
avoiding its inky spray. The octopus wraps itself around his hands. He
passes it my way, and I let strange creature grasp my outstretched arm with
it’s tentacles, while I stroke its velvety head. It is magnificent and
graceful, and surges quickly away when released, burying itself beyond view
in the sandy ocean bottom.
 Over 2,000 miles from any
continent or major island group, the Hawaiian islands are the most isolated
island chain in the world. Being so isolated, it is no wonder that nearly
one-third of Hawaii’s marine life can be found nowhere else in the world. At
least this is what I’ve been told. Not being a marine biologist, (I’m a
land-locked Canadian), I head to The Maui Ocean Centre, at Ma’alaea Harbour,
which has become the hub of marine education in Hawaii by offering a
curriculum of intriguing educational programs.
The 20 million dollar, state of the art facility opened in 1998 as the
largest tropical reef aquarium in the western Hemisphere. It provides
information, tours by marine naturalists, and exhibits on thousands of
indigenous fish, sharks, turtles, stingrays and other fascinating marine
animals. The three acre marine park strives to foster understanding, wonder
and respect for Hawaii’s ocean life, while also teaching visitors about
Maui’s natural history and cultural heritage.
For a truly unique scuba experience, the Maui Ocean Center allows
experienced divers to descend into the 750,000 gallon Open Ocean Exhibit, to
come face to face with sharks, stingrays, and hundreds of tropical fish.
With friends and family watching through the glass of the exhibit’s viewing
area, divers have their own personal encounter with sandbar, blacktip,
whitetip, grey reef, and the occasional tiger shark. The two hour program
and 30 minute underwater adventure cost $190.
Not a diver? - visitors can also find wonderful snorkelling opportunities
around the 120 linear miles of Maui’s ragged shoreline, or out on her
colourful reefs. A morning drive to Ulua Beach in Wailea offers the unique
opportunity to snorkel the colourful ocean reef with a knowledgeable
naturalist from the Pacific Whale Foundation. He is able to let you know
exactly what you are seeing, giving names to the vast variety of tropical
fish and the urchins that live on the coral.
 We see snow flake eels
peering from small holes in the rock. Puffer fish swim with us through a
colourful array of Racoon Butterflyfish, Sailfin Tang, Spotted Boxfish and
Surgeonfish. A Kona Crab scurries across the ocean floor. We are able to
hold Red Slate sea urchins, their fleshy spines wavering and their underside
gripping our palms.
Another learning experience comes with a trip out on the Pacific Whale
Foundation’s Ocean Odyssey to do some snorkelling at Molokini (which is busy
and slightly over-rated) and turtle watching at Turtle Town (which is not).
The PWF excursions have the reputation of being great for children, even
taking them aside during the voyage for an educational talk, with the chance
to become a certified Junior Marine Naturalist.
 For those who prefer to
enjoy the marine life without getting wet, a trip down to 150 feet aboard an
Atlantis Submarine in Lahaina allows for another fascinating look at Maui’s
under-sea world. An onboard naturalist gives a very humourous and
informative presentation, while huge stingrays wing past, garden eels wave
their slender necks in the ocean current, and thousands of colourful fish
dart amongst the corral, taking little notice of the giant tube that has
invaded their privacy. The crystal clear Maui waters, and the oversize
portals allow for excellent views of the marine life.
While many visitors come to Maui, the second largest of the Hawaiian
Islands, to sunbathe on one of her 81 beaches, I am always drawn beyond the
sand, into and under her deep blue sea.
Where to Stay: The Kamaole Sands in Kihei is perfect and practical for
families - condos surround a grassy courtyard filled with palm trees, lush
gardens, and a bolder-strewn waterfall. There is a beautiful pool area - two
hot tubs, a kids pool, regular pool, restaurant, and information centre
hedged by stone walls, tropical plants, and flagstone decking. The views
from the terra cotta, villa style condos are always south to the sea, for an
early sunrise, or a spectacular Maui sunset. Fresh fish or Maui ribs can be
prepared, and an elaborate outdoor picnic set, at one of the six barbecue
areas. For the energetic, there are the resort’s tennis courts, or miles of
superb white sand beaches to walk or run. www.CastleResorts.com
Maui Adventures Under the Deep Blue
The Maui Dive Shop
www.mauidiveshop.com
(808) 879-1775
The Maui Ocean Center
www.mauioceancenter.com
info@mauioceancentre.com
(808) 279-7000
Pacific Whale Foundation
www.pacificwhale.org
education@pacificwhale.org
(808) 249-8811
Atlantis Submarines
www.atlantisadventures.com
1-800-548-6262
www.visitmui.com
Images by Jamie Ross
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