Cheyenne

Heart of the West

by Robert Painter

Gun slingin’ cowboys at the depot, buffalo herds in the surrounding hills, trail rides into the horizon and western music in the barn.  Check these off your list and you’ll know you’re in the real west.  You’re in Cheyenne, stomping grounds of Butch Cassidy and the town where Reba McIntire earned her first nickel performing with her sister at the famous Plains Hotel. (Her sister got a quarter, but Reba did manage to catch up later.)

Cheyenne, with a population of 50,000+, sits at an elevation of 6200 feet on the edge of the Rocky Mountains. You can fly into Cheyenne’s regional airport or land in Denver and drive the 90 miles in about an hour and a half.  Allow a little more time if you decide to stop in Ft. Collins at the Budweiser brewery, take the tour and visit with the magnificent Clydesdales along the way.  

You’ve probably heard of the Cheyenne Frontier Days.  Plan your trip for the last full week of July and enjoy the “Daddy of ‘em All.”  If you don’t have any cowboy boots you can find them at The Wrangler or one of the other stores downtown near the Depot Square Plaza.  Be ready for more excitement than you can imagine – and great entertainment.  In 2009, George Strait, Kenny Chesney, Sawyer Brown, Taylor Swift and others were part of the night shows.  And Professional Bull Riders, too.

The rodeo, of course, is the center of it all.  Every afternoon you’ll thrill to  saddle bronc, bareback, bull riding, steer wrestling, roping, barrel racing and Cheyenne’s famous wild horse race.  Before and after the rodeo you’ll find even more excitement at the carnival midway with lots of food, rides and games.  Another special attraction is a performance by the USAF Thunderbirds who have been showing off their aerial acrobatics here every year since 1953.

There are even more things happening during Frontier Days than you’ll likely be able to keep up with.  Don’t miss the pancake breakfasts – they are a show in themselves as the cooks flip the flapjacks over their heads to the “catchers” standing behind them! And, with chuckwagon cook-off’s, grand parades, Western art shows, the Indian Village and lots more you’ll wish you had planned a couple of extra days for this visit.

Now I know you can’t all make it to Cheyenne during the last week of July.  And there is really nothing to keep you from visiting any time..  If Cheyenne Frontier Days sounded like a lot to do, wait till you hear about the other 50 weeks of the year.

To get yourself into things Western, a great way to begin is to head to the Bit-O-Wyo Ranch for an evening of fun and good eatin’.  Get there in mid-afternoon and you’ll have time for a trail ride on one of the friendly horses waiting for you to saddle up. If it’s Saturday night there will be a Horse Barn Cowboy Dinner Show with the Bit-O-Wyo Blue Water Cowboy Band.

Sometimes there are shows on other nights so check it out and get ready for a fun night of old-time family fun.  If you remember Bob Nolan and the Sons of the Pioneers from the movies you’ll have an idea of what you might expect.  And before the show starts you’ll have a great plate of steak and beans cooked just right. Check the link at the end of the story and learn all about the family, the posse and then try out the bean recipe – I think you’ll love it!

Now that you’re in the cowboy mood get up early the next day and drift on over to the Terry Bison Ranch.  You won’t need to walk the entire 30,000 acres to see the bison and beefalo in the nearby pastures.  They have a neat little train that loops around the area and gets you right up nest to the bison.  Plus, it will likely be feeding time, so the train wranglers will have some feed that will bring some of these majestic creatures right up beside you. Don’t forget your camera – you won’t even need a telephoto lens.  As you’ve already guessed, a beefalo is a cross between a bison (buffalo) and a cow.  Bred for good eating you’ll probably find it on the menu back in town at one of the local restaurants.

If you’re not ready to leave the bison ranch you can eat at The Senator’s Restaurant and Brass Buffalo Saloon and even stay overnight in one of the cabins.  There are even RV spaces available. If you can’t get your fill of Buffalo burgers, steaks and even Buffalo Bratwurst you can have some shipped home to share with your neighbors when you show them your from the trip. 

But, let’s keep movin’ because there’s a lot more to see and do here in Cheyenne.  You don’t want to miss the Cheyenne Depot and Depot Museum.  The depot is one of the last of the grand 19th century depots remaining on the transcontinental railroad and one of the most beautiful stations in North America.  I know that because of two things.  One – that’s what their literature says.  Two – I saw it and I believe it.  I think you’ll be impressed, too.  And, don’t forget to go upstairs and wander through the museum.  It’s full of lots of interesting railroad stuff and will help you understand more about the old west and how the railroad helped build it.  

I already mentioned the shopping.  When you walk out of the Cheyenne Depot you’ll be in the center of plenty of fine western shopping.  And, you can’t miss the boots around town, especially the one directly in front of the depot.  You’ll know what I’m talking about when you see them – these boots were NOT made for walkin’.

Before we head back out into the country for another adventure you may want to stop by and see the Cheyenne Botanic Gardens with 9 acres of beautiful landscapes.  Lots of cactus, roses, herbs, wildflowers, a Peace Garden and home to Engine 1242, the oldest train engine in Wyoming.  It’s free, it’s open year round and you are welcome to bring your Buffalo burgers and have a picnic. 

I should mention that there is another steam engine in Cheyenne that you’ll probably want to see. Big Boy Steam Engine, also known as Old Number 4004 is the world’s largest steam locomotive.  You can find it waiting for you anytime in Holliday Park.

You may recall that Cheyenne is the capitol of Wyoming so naturally there are things to see like the State Capitol Building, a National Historic Landmark, the Wyoming State Museum, Historic Governor’s Mansion and more. 

But, I’m trying to get you out of town for one of my favorite places in the area.  You could drive north to see the Oregon Trail Ruts that were carved into the sandstone by the wagon trains headed west.  Or you could visit Register Cliffs along the Oregon Trail where names were carved into the soft limestone by long ago travelers.  Or, you could visit Fort Laramie.  These are all good ideas if you have the time, but my inclination would be to head west.

To the West of Cheyenne you’ll find the Snowy Range Ski Area, also great for hiking and scenic drives in the summer.  You could visit the Wyoming Territorial Prison which was a temporary residence of Butch Cassidy.  You could also visit the quiet little town of Centennial and shop in some of the antique stores, have lunch and maybe soak in the Saratoga Hot Springs.

All of these are good ideas, but I think I’d top it off with a trip to the Vedauwoo Recreation Area.  It’s only about 20 miles from Cheyenne.  Here you’ll find terrific hiking trails and wonderful opportunities for rock climbing and bouldering.

There is an area right beside a parking lot with a huge rock outcropping that provides about any kind of climbing experience you might want, from very simple scrambling up the rocks to more adventurous bouldering to technical, roped up, serious climbing. I didn’t have nearly enough time on my visit here so hope to get back and experience more of Vedauwoo.  I suggest making it an all day trip.  Pack a lunch, plenty of beverages and leave your cell phone and laptop at home.  I’m going to include a link to Vedauwoo and the rock climbing there, but don’t worry,  there’s plenty to do with both feet planted solidly on the ground. 

If you’re a camper there are really nice campsites at Vedauwoo and you can journey from your base here to Laramie and Centennial as well as Cheyenne.  But, if you’re in tenderfoot mode, let me recommend a fabulous B & B next to a lake in the Laramie Mountains not too far from Cheyenne. 

The Windy Hills Wyoming Bed and Breakfast will impress you.  With spectacular views of the lake and surrounding mountains you may want to just hang out all day and do nothing but take in the magnificent sky and watch for critters. Just outside my door was a pretty good size boulder with a chipmunk practicing his bouldering skills.  It seemed to be an exercise just for me.  And, just beyond and below in a ravine I spotted a deer with her two fawns.  Probably not a bad way to spend a day. 

Not only that, my room was absolutely beautiful.  A bit masculine, so maybe I should call it “handsome.”  Spacious and wonderfully decorated in an unquestionably western style – perfect for me.

If you decide to stay in town you might want to try the Little America Hotel, an 80 acre complex with a 9-hole golf course and an Olympic sized pool.  If you don’t play golf it’s a good place to get in your early morning walk.  One quick lap around will get your day started and burn off a few calories before you have that first Buffalo burger of the day.

Keep on Traveling!

Story and by Robert Painter.  Rpainter2006@comcast.net.  Photo # 1040421

Bullrider photo courtesy of Matthew Idler and the Cheyenne CVB.

When You Go

http://www.cheyenne.org. Cheyenne Visitors Information. They have a great trip planner that maps out the things you want to see and do.

http://www.cfdrodeo.com. Cheyenne Frontier Days

http://www.bitowyoranch.com. Bit-O-Wyo – check schedules and times for Bit-O-Wyo.

http://www.terrybisonranch.com. Plan for your Buffalo Burger and Bison visit

http://www.vedauwoo.org. Remember, you don’t have to do the scary stuff!

http://www.windyhillswyo.com. Windy Hills B & B

http://www.littleamerica.com/cheyenne/landing. Little America Hotel in Cheyenne