by Lance Kramer

To begin our journey into discoveries of dichotomies, my wife and I drove to the Old Course Hotel at St. Andrews, perhaps the most likely entrance point into golf history. The Old Course, believed to be the birthplace of golf some two centuries before Columbus reached America’s shores, creates shivers in sunny weather for the true golf aficionado.

Driving into the circle driveway fronting the stone and iron work façade of the historic hotel, we were greeted by Winston, a concierge extraordinaire. Clothed in a St. Andrews plaid kilt that lay underneath his belted sporran, his closely clipped white beard whispered dignity into the background of the nearby highway noise. On the lapel of his dark blue blazer lay a boutonniere of purple thistle, the national symbol of Scotland, nestled in heather. His full head of white hair proudly carried a Scottish Glengarry black hat, adorned on one side with large bird feathers and topped by a round red ball. It was Winston, on that quiet weekday afternoon, who chose to squire us through the history and present of The Old Course and the Old Course Hotel. Ah, but not before he hoisted the scabbard and sword of St. Andrew to complete the picture for us, both literally and figuratively.

As Winston led us through the immaculate and spacious lobby with its subtle but expensive shops, he filled us in on old history and an important new development. The hotel was purchased four years ago by the Kohler Company, with a number of upgrades and enhancements having been completed or well underway. Not surprisingly, many of the suites feature the distinctive Kohler bathroom products. Hearing that, I suddenly remembered that the 2010 PGA Tournament will be held at Whistling Straights near Kohler, Wisconsin. Hmm.

We reached an opening filled with windows that begged us to peek. Our initial view of the renowned Road Hole was electrifying; so many golfers seek this sight, so few find it. The famous sight of the hallowed ground that has provided closure for a goodly number of British Opens over the years has only revealed itself on television until now. Wow.

The Road Hole begins with a drive over the recreated old railway sheds that guard the corner. The golfer who successfully flies the roof must then avoid the devilishly deep bunker that guards the 17th green as well as the road itself that runs behind the green. And then to see golf’s gauntlet anew from the upstairs outdoor patio that is outside the subtly elegant Road Hole Restaurant – rated 3AA rosettes - brought new beauty and added perspective into our admiring eyes.

The spotless halls of the hotels finally gave way to the outside pathway leading to the Jigger Inn, another historical highlight dating back to the 1850s when it was the station master’s lodge. Golf memorabilia, home cooked food and an exquisite selection of Scottish beers can be found inside the famous inn. No better place or way to complete a round of golf; particularly a round of golf that has just been played on 12 greens, not 18. Another unique aspect of the Old Course is that is has 7 massive double greens, each of which serve 2 different holes whose sum adds to 18. It made me think that adventuresome golfers wishing to visit golf heaven had best be good at math.

And just when our open mouthed awe was beginning to subside, we observed a sign proclaiming that the Open Championship of 2010 will be played in July right where we were: at the Old Course at St. Andrews. Marking the 150th anniversary of the tournament, Tiger Woods will be here to defend the Open Championships that he won at St. Andrews in 2000 and again in 2005, when Jack Nicklaus climaxed his incredible career by playing in his last Open. Bingo. We just closed the loop.

Reluctantly retracing our steps, we learned that the Old Course Hotel is a five-star hotel with 144 rooms including 35 suites. Of particular note is the fact that many of the rooms have balconies that not only overlook the Road Hole but also overlook the town of St. Andrews, our next destination.

Our prior research into the town had enlightened us in ways that we had not anticipated. We learned that St. Andrew is the Patron Saint of Scotland; the flag of Scotland is the Cross of St. Andrew and is displayed throughout Scotland as a symbol of national identity. After having been martyred in Greece in 70AD, his bones were entombed and later taken to Constantinople by Emperor Constantine. Centuries later, Bishop Acca of Hecam brought relics of St. Andrew to an area on the northeast coast of Fife, Scotland, a settlement that became St. Andrews. Here the great Cathedral of St. Andrews was built and soon became a significant pilgrimage center.

Standing tall and proud as the largest cathedral in Scotland and one of the most renowned in Europe led, unfortunately, to a significant involvement in the events of the Protestant Reformation. Several martyrs of the faith were burnt at the stake outside the cathedral in the mid 1500’s, and it was shortly after these events that the holy halls began a journey into desecration and neglect. Fortunately for us, the skeletal remains were a treasure trove of memories, cultural history and ancient beauty.

We drove through the small but bustling college town, arriving at the ruins during the latter part of the afternoon. Sitting at the eastern end of St. Andrews’ two main streets, the first view offered by the fate smitten church is that of an implausibly high, blackened tower near the street. Moving toward the water, we saw the remains of the east gable, with grand openings that were likely the home of beautiful stained glass windows. An opening in a black gate beckoned, and it was there we saw the “St. Andrews Cathedral and Priory” sign, welcoming us with opening and closing hour information. A beautifully framed view of the east gable ensued, ensuring that we would explore further. We were surprised to find a rather sizable portion of the magnificent precinct wall that surrounds the nave in a relatively intact condition. Wandering further on the south side of the main cathedral led us to a large number of graves that had been unearthed from under the floor of the chapter house.

Our connection with the duality that is St. Andrews was sealed when we saw the grave of Young Tom Morris, the golfer. Our scorecard for the day’s adventures was certain to put us atop the leader board with an exciting, well under par round.

Picture credits: Lance Kramer