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15 Reasons to Love Toronto

By Edith Hall Friedheim

They say you can't go home again. They say nothing stays the same. Yet every time I visit my Canadian hometown, I'm surprised to rediscover many of the same things that made the city unique during the 1950's. Here are some of the reasons both old and new why I keep coming back.

1.  THE SOHO METROPOLITAN HOTEL. Five-star luxury and convenience within walking distance of Toronto's business district, the CN Tower, theaters and nightclubs. The neighborhood teems during the week but is blessedly quiet on weekend days. 318 Wellington St. West. Tel. (416) 599-8800. Website: www.metropolitan.com.

2.  360 RESTAURANT AT THE CN TOWER, for lunch or dinner. Nothing equals the city views from the revolving restaurant in Toronto's iconic landmark. Clubby décor and top cuisine, especially seafood, complete the picture. 301 Front St. West. Tel. (416) 362-5411. Website: www.cntower.ca.

3.  BRUCE BELL'S ST. LAWRENCE MARKET TOURS. As the market's official tour guide and a personable, erudite guy, Bruce enthuses about every aspect of the landmark market that once housed City Hall. Free food samples enhance the experience! Tel. 647-393-8687. Website: www.bruce@brucebelltours.com.

4.  PEA-MEAL SANDWICHES, notably at the St. Lawrence Market's Carousel Bakery (93 Front St. East). Carousel also bakes outrageously gooey and delicious BUTTER TARTS, those quintessentially Canadian confections similar to pecan tarts without the nuts. The BLUEBERRY BUNS at the Harbord Bakery, the oldest Jewish bakery in Toronto, 115 Harbord St., south of Bloor, off Spadina. (416) 922-5767. BAGELS anywhere; the Toronto water makes them better.

5. THE BELTLINE. How many major cities can claim four miles of country walking trails right in the metropolitan area? Following the route of an 1890s commuter railway, the beltway meanders through valleys, ravines, and a cemetery. I start at the Eglinton Ave.West Subway Station and finish at the St. Clair Subway Station.

6.  STREETCARS. San Francisco has its cable cars, but with 248 long, sleek and shiny red and cream colored streetcars cars serving 11 downtown routes, Toronto boasts the largest such system in North America.

7.  KENSINGTON MARKET. Toronto is nothing if not culturally diverse. About 30 of the city's 80 ethnic groups converge here at one of the city's most colorful outdoor markets. Best time to visit: weekends, when Chinese foodstuffs and handicrafts line Spadina Avenue north from Queen Street to St. Andrew. The best vintage clothing in the city, dry goods, cheese, baked goods and plenty of cafes and restaurants are hidden in the side streets just west of Chinatown. South of College St., west of Spadina. Website: www.kensington-market.ca.

8.  THE DISTILLERY DISTRICT. The movies Chicago and X-Men were filmed here. Once a thriving brewery, the distillery had fallen into disrepair during the years of my childhood. Now completely restored, its pedestrian-only cobblestone streets house Toronto's hottest galleries, boutiques, artist studios and restaurants. 55 Mill St. (416) 364-1177. Website: www.thedistillerydistrict.com.

9. BATA SHOE MUSEUM. What do John Lennon, John McEnroe, Elizabeth Taylor, Marilyn Monroe, and Pablo Picasso have in common? Their shoes are part of a collection celebrating 4500 years of history from ancient Egyptian sandals to 20th century celebrity footwear.  An absolute must-visit Toronto attraction. Great gift shop too. 327 Bloor St. W. (416) 979-7799. Website: batashoemuseum.ca.

10. HOCKEY HALL OF FAME. Canada invented hockey, or so it seems. This shrine to Canada's national obsession is housed in an historic Bank of Montreal building. The Broadcast Zone there has simulated games to play. BCE Place, 30 Yonge Street. Tel. (416) 360-7765. Web site: www.hhof.com.

11. ICE-SKATING AT CITY HALL. When the outdoor pool in front is flooded for winter skating (you can rent ice skates here too) the curvilinear buildings, already dramatic, seem almost magical. 100 Queen St. W., at Bay St.  (416) 338-0338; Website: www.toronto.ca.

12. THE BEACHES. A lakeside stroll or bike ride along the boardwalk provides a hiatus right downtown in this new "old" neighborhood of trendy shops and restaurants. The Queen Street East streetcar line stops nearby.

13. DRAPER STREET. This sliver of a block just off Wellington Street west of Spadina houses important Georgian cottages built between 1881 and 1889 now preserved as part of Toronto's past, before landfill extended the shoreline of Lake Ontario. 

14. PENROSE FISH & CHIPS. No visit to Toronto is complete without a newspaper cone filled with fried halibut and potatoes and smothered in vinegar the way the English eat them. Midtown, 600 Mount Pleasant Rd., at Eglinton Ave. E. (416) 483-6800.

15. TORONTONIANS. It's true. Torontonians are famously and invariably polite. Recently, while waiting for my coffee-to-go at a Second Cup franchise, I asked the counterman about a certain street I was looking for. He excused himself, ran downstairs and soon emerged with a map print-out showing the exact location of my destination.  Now THAT'S civilized!

Farther afield but high on my favorites list is THE INN AT MANITOU, a small but superb family-owned Relais and Chateaux resort two hours north of Toronto (150 miles) on Lake Manitouwabing. I go there to unwind, to practice golf and tennis and to take advantage of the excellent spa facilities and for its splendid international cuisine. McKellar Centre Road, McKellar, ON. Summer Tel. (705)389-2171. Winter: (416) 245-5606. E-mail innatmanitou-online.com.

 


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