The Hundred Dollar Weekend: SavannahBy Heather HobsonI made the four-hour drive to Savannah, Georgia on a steamy morning in July. Visiting the “most haunted” city in America was something I wanted to do for some time but life kept getting in the way. As soon as I exited the highway in Savannah I knew this was a special town. Immediately upon entering historic Savannah I came upon the visitors center. I stopped in to stretch my legs and pick up a map. The place as packed with people and the staff at the information desk were very helpful. It looked as though the welcome center was the origination point for most o the trolley tours in town. The historic section of Savannah isn’t huge, the whole area is only 2.5 square miles. You could walk anywhere within 20 minutes and the city of Savannah offers a free trolley service called the CAT Shuttle throughout the historic district. Once I had my map in hand I plotted the places I wanted to visit. I planned on visiting the Telfair Museum, the Owens-Thomas House, the Gryphon Tea Room, the Sixpence Pub, and at night I was going to take a ghost tour. But first I wanted to check out my accommodations. I always travel on a very tight budget and accommodations in Savannah can be pretty pricey. For this trip I decided to stay at a youth hostel, it was the most affordable accommodation in Savannah. I ‘d read some mixed reviews on the place but I was only staying one night so if it was terrible I could go out and sleep in the car. It was still too early to check in but I wanted to get my bearings and check out the parking situation.
Speaking of which, this town is enamored of its most notable literary work. Berendt wrote the book in 1994 and it has sold over 3 million copies to date. In 1997 it was turned into a lackluster film adaptation starring John Cusack. Around here it’s known simply as “The Book” Autographed copies of the novel can be purchased at “The Book” Gift Shop in Calhoun Square and sightseeing tours operate daily to explore the locations featured in it.
Because this site is in the midst of preservation it’s in a bit of disarray. The formal dining room was about to be painted so it wasn’t in all of its glory. And in many rooms there were still window treatments waiting to be hung. Beneath the house in the basement were the kitchen, servants' quarters, wine cellar, and a large 5000 gallon cistern which helped enable the plumbing system. I left the Owens-Thomas House and headed back to my car which was parked beneath a mossy tree in Oglethorpe Square. My parking meter had expired perhaps ten minutes earlier and the crack team of meter maids had tagged me. $10 to the city of Savannah, score one for the municipality.
I heard there was great nightlife down on River Street where a row of bars and restaurants overlook the Savannah River but I was so hot and sweaty and tired I decided to call it a night. Savannah Hostel and Pension, built in 1884, was quiet when I got back and a skinny little cat greeted me at the doorstep. I took a shower and went to bed. The hostel suited me just fine. There was a full kitchen, lounge area, and two private baths at my disposal. Outside the kitchen was a clothesline to hang wet laundry. And right across the street was a supermarket. Street parking was abundant. So here is the weekend scoreboard: Lodging: One night at Savannah Hostel and Pension, $45 |
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I traversed the narrow roads and historic squares lined with old moss strewn live oaks. Once the homestead was located, I headed out to the Telfair Museum, 121 Barnard Street. Lucky me! The museum wasn’t charging admission this week. Score one point for my pocketbook. The featured exhibit was entitled Coming Home: American Paintings 1930-1950, from the Schoen Collection. The collection, housed in the historic Telfair Mansion, was lovely. The paintings were all quite exceptional but the star of the museum is Sylvia Shaw Judson’s Bird Girl. This is the sculpture featured on the cover of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil by John Berendt.
After leaving the Telfair I headed down the shady brick roads a couple blocks to the Telfair’s sister site the Owens-Thomas House, 124 Abercorn Street. This home is one of the preeminent examples of regency architecture in the country, as well as having a rich southern history. Overall, I enjoyed the experience. Our docent was very knowledgeable but I got the feeling she was pressed for time. The house has such a colorful past that she would touch on something fascinating but not have the time to delve into any details before moving on another point of interest. The tour begins in the carriage house. In addition to serving as a barn it also was the home to slaves working for the families who lived there. Our docent led us from the carriage house through the garden and into the house.
The house hosts many architectural firsts. It was the first house in the U.S. to be fully plumbed with running water and flushing toilets. And it had the very first built-in shower. The Owens-Thomas House also boasts a one of a kind bridge over the main staircase of the home, connecting the bedrooms in the front of the house to those overlooking the garden. Other architects have tried to recreate the bridge in other buildings with no success. The rooms are decorated with all sorts of period antiques, some original to the estate and some acquired by the trust.
It was mid afternoon and I was pretty hungry. Several blocks south is the Gryphon Tea Room, 337 Bull Street. From 4:00-6:00 each afternoon the Gryphon serves high tea replete with finger sandwiches and scones. I opted not for the high tea but rather the “tea set”. It consisted of a fresh fruit cup, two warm scones with jam and clotted cream and a pot of tea of my choice. The fruit was so ripe and sweet and the scones delectable. I selected a pot of the chai tea that wasn’t as potent as I would have liked but delightful nonetheless.
The Gryphon closes at six so I went back to my hostel to check in and rest up a bit. At the shuttered door of the aqua colored Victorian home I met an Australian tourist also waiting to get checked in. My room was a six bed dorm room, no frills, with an adjacent private bathroom. Bed sheets and a blanket were provided. It’s the only hostel in Savannah so it attracts travelers from all over the world. I met Britons, Swedes, and Australians while I was there.
After a short rest and a refreshing shower (Georgia is HOT in July) I set out for my evening activities. Just south of Chippewa Square is the Sixpence Pub, 245 Bull Street, an establishment with plaid wallpaper, portraits of hunting dogs, and a requisite red phone booth outside. It was a quiet night in the tavern which serves the old pub favorites: shepherd’s pie, bangers and mash, and Welsh rarebit. There is seating at the bar, a dining room, and sidewalk tables as well. The best part of this place is the wait staff, they overflow with southern hospitality.
The sun was setting but the heat and humidity remained. I strolled up to Reynolds Square where the Ghost Talk, Ghost walk commenced under the John Wesley monument. This particular ghost tour (and there are many in Savannah) covers ten or more notorious haunts all with unique stories. Of course there is the standard children-who-died-in-an-orphanage ghost story and the war-bride-widow’s-walk ghost stories but there were other interesting tales on this tour. I’m a skeptic, so some of the legends seemed farfetched to me but they were entertaining. From the spirit who pushes coins up through the soil to the cheek-kissing ghost, all the yarns spun on this tour are engaging. There was one site which gave me the creeps. It was the very first spot we were introduced to was Olde Pink House at 23 Abercorn Street and just standing in front of it made the hairs on the back of my neck stand up.
Our tour guide was spectacular. Our group was made up mostly of adults so we moved a bit more quickly than the usual flocks of Girl Scouts and such. So with our leftover time she was able to squeeze in one more haunted site at 12 West Oglethorpe for good measure.