Feeling Italian in Orvieto
by Nancy Morgantini
I have to tell you about the "sausage convention" in Orvieto. At least
that is what we called them..."the sausage guys". They were
everywhere, in packs of 6 or 7, strolling the streets in their
"going-to-town" suits and ties. My husband, Luigi, the Italian
linguist, said that their dialect was definitely from the "south"...but, no,
they were not, or could not be associated with the "M" word. Their
not-so-great-fitting suits and fake silk ties gave them away (and I think
they bought their “designer” sunglasses from one of those street vendors).
They strutted around like “flocks” of roosters, roosters with cell phones.
We asked a waiter at a small cafe' if they were locals...after he recovered
from laughing, he said that they had been around for a week and no one knew
who they were and why they were there. We decided that they must be in
town for a sausage convention and nicknamed them "the Sausage Guys".
So, days later, who do we see at the train station waiting for the train to
Naples? "The Sausage Guys"!...still wearing the same attire, but with NO
luggage! Who goes to Orvieto for a whole week with nothing but one suit and
one tie?
Orvieto, was to be, for Luigi and I, "a place to drop off the rental car" in
Italy, BUT it turned out to be much more than we had expected. Thanks to the
21st century Internet, we found the “perfect” home in Orvieto. CasaVera
Bed and Breakfast felt more like our own apartment with a living room,
Umbrian kitchen and a large bedroom. It was quite a discovery, just a
few metres from the heart of historic Orvieto.
Much of the city traces its history back to Etruscan times (800 BC).
Built on a huge cliff of tufa (a soft volcanic rock), it dominates the
surrounding hills and plains. It has seen millennia of history and
civilizations.
 We took the "underground
tour" to see just two (out of 1200 known) of the Etruscan underground
chambers and tunnels. Four hundred and fourty four of the chambers are
still accessible, most privately owned and some used as wine cellars! One of
the most interesting chambers was what I called the “pigeon hole”. Dozens of
pigeon roosts were carved out of the tufa walls, not by Etruscans, but
during the medieval period when “pigeon pate” was profitable and that was
the only source of protein during sieges. An early “home based business”!
 The underground is only a
small part of the charm of Orvieto. We could wander through the
narrow, cobblestone streets, sit outside a small bar/caffe' with our “aperitivo”
and feel like a local, among the locals. I almost felt Italian (if only it
was that easy to learn the language!). The buildings in our "neighbourhood"
date back to around the 1300's...an amazing feeling of time travel.
 One night, as we wandered
down Via del Duomo, I glanced up at a 3rd story window and discovered a
beautifully frescoed ceiling! It made me wonder what other “treasures” hide
inside those historic buildings.
After our visit to the underground, we headed above ground…way above, 47
metres to be exact. The Torre del Moro, a 13-14th centuries tower provided a
“pigeon’s” eye view of Orvieto and the Umbrian hills.
 What could be a better way
to enjoy Italy than to refine oneself and spend a night at the Opera?
In Orvieto, I was finally able to shed my tourist attire, dig my skirt out
of the suitcase and experience my first ever Italian opera, Rigoletto, in
Teatro Mancinelli, a beautiful 150 year old theatre. These are theatres
where operas were first performed....warm, small, intimate and elegant
surroundings.
 How could I forget the
Duomo di Orvieto? The “Duomo”, the famous Gothic style cathedral smack dab
in the centre of historic Orvieto, with it’s excessively decorated façade,
and gothic design striped sides was a “must see” and a real Kodak moment for
me. With my Sony in hand, hearing the distinctive “brides march”, I rushed
to “capture” the bride and groom exiting the cathedral and into a shower of
rice. The enormity of the Duomo gave me a feeling of unrealism, but after
seeing and hearing the 21st century wedding taking place, I had a different
perspective.
Although our visit to Orvieto was short on time, it was long enough for me
to fall in love with the feeling of being totally immersed in the Italian
culture, even for my English-only speaking self. I see a return visit in my
future.
Orvieto Tourist Information
Website: http://www.orvietoonline.com
Orvieto underground guided tours
Contact e-mail:
speleotecnica@libero.it
Website:
http://www.orvietounderground.it
CasaVera Bed & Breakfast
Contact email:
info@casaveraorvieto.it
Website:
http://www.casaveraorvieto.it
PHOTOS by Nancy Morgantini:
1 The
Underground “Pigeon Hole”
2 Orvieto in the
evening
3 View through 3rd floor window
4 Teatro Mancinelli before the opera
5
Duomo di Orvieto at sunset
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