The Hip and Historic Combine for a Vibrant San Antonio by Marian Betancourt San Antonio is a vibrant city with an obvious fondness for its history. For example, a hip boutique hotel occupies an historic building renamed for a legend. The site of the oldest Mexican market in the country also accommodates new cutting edge museum exhibits, and the city’s dining scene puts a sophisticated culinary spin on traditional cuisine.  In the 1990s the city made it clear it had something to offer visitors when they remodeled the River Walk into a modern pedestrian thoroughfare lined with restaurants, hotels and shops. The AAA four-diamond Emily Morgan Hotel at Alamo Plaza is named for the young woman who inspired the famous song, The Yellow Rose of Texas, and in her honor there are small vases of yellow roses in the lobby.
 Emily was an indentured servant to James Morgan, a British gentleman who came to Texas to seek his fortune. Mexican General Santa Ana apparently had a yen for Emily, and that attraction allegedly delayed the general’s response to an attack by some Texans after the siege at the Alamo. At 13 stories, the 177-room hotel is one of the city’s highest buildings. Erected in 1924 at a Medical Arts Building it later became an office building. Now listed in the National Register of Historic Places it is part of Alamo Plaza Historic District. For information: www.emilymorganhotel.com.
 The vitality of historic Market Square attracts visitors to its many shops and art galleries. At El Mercada—the oldest Mexican market in the United States—you can find thousands of crafts from south of the border. Last year the Museo Alameda, an affiliate of The Smithsonian Institution opened as part of The Alameda National Center for Latino Arts and Culture, which also includes a landmark movie theatre.
 This modernized historic building, painted in the bright primary colors of the market place, is also the world’s largest Latino museum. It features permanent and changing exhibitions such as the recent Azucar! The Life and Music of Celia Cruz. Museo Alameda is open every day except Monday. For information: www.thealameda.org.
 While you are at Market Square be sure to stop at Mi Tierra (My Country) Café and Bakery, not only to eat your favorite Mexican meal, but to check on the progress of the ever-growing wall mural in the banquet room, a montage of the family of Pete and Cruzita Cortez who have operated the café since 1941. The mural features others who have played a role in this Spanish influenced city, including some Conquistadors, artist Freida Kahlo, and General Santa Ana. Don’t be surprised if one of the “characters” materializes such as when a family member in a white sombrero stops to chat with a guest in front of his own image. President Theodore Roosevelt is also depicted in his Spanish American War uniform. He recruited his Rough Riders across town at the Menger Bar, where his ghost reportedly stops in for an occasional drink.
 Like the restaurant, which has expanded into additional buildings over the years, the mural, a living fresco, has gradually expanded to adjoining walls. The late artist, Jesus Garcia, began the mural and today’s resident artist is Robert Duarte. MiTierra, with its glittery ceiling lights, bright colors, and wall art lifts your spirits as soon as you walk through the door to join the genial crowds and the warmth of the staff. For information: www.mitierracafe.com.
 The first Europeans to settle this city were from the Canary Islands. With the help of the local Indians they built a string of missions, all excellent examples of Spanish Colonial architecture. The first of these, built in 1718, was Mission san Antonio de Valero, known today as the Alamo, the most famous building in San Antonio because of the1836 battle. It is a small building with a big story and you can spend quite a bit of time there exploring the barracks museum and the cavalry courtyard. You can almost hear those determined voices vowing never to give up. A National Historical Park, the Alamo is open daily and admission is free. For information: www.thealamo.org.
 Of the many fine restaurants in San Antonio, Azuca on South Alamo Street (www.azuca.net) offers the best Nuevo Latino cuisine for lunch and dinner. Chef and co-owner L. Rene Fernandez was born in Mexico City but his sophisticated cuisine includes all of Latin America. Azuca means sugar, the word Celia Cruz, used to shout to her audience to energize the crowd. It’s a perfect expression of the bold flavor Fernandez imparts to his food.
 Some standouts include the ceviches and the popular “Camaron Pelao,” sautéed large shrimp with garlic and tequila, huitlocoche sauce, and wilted spinach. For the 2007 New World Wine and Food Festival, Chef Fernandez prepared slow braised duck, fresh watercress, caramelized peaches and reduced Malbec wine syrup that was truly to die for. And the dulce de leche with sweet pastry and sweet balsamic sauce--wow!
San Antonio offers visitors a wide menu of options for fine dining and hotels as well as museums, historic buildings, sports, nightlife, an aquarium and a zoo. There are several festivals during the year, too, so for information go to www.visitsanantonio.com. : Courtesy of San Antonio Convention and Visitors’ Bureau, Al Rendon, Emily Morgan Hotel, MiTierra Café, and Azuca. | 