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An Englishwoman in New York

Despite the Rain and the Wind, A City Always Worth Visiting
Chilling Out in the Big Apple

By Rowena Carr-Allinson

It was a week before Thanksgiving, when I flew into New York on an internal flight from Boston. A beautiful day and a fantastic view from the teeny, tiny plane heading to JFK.

This time around there was no specific purpose to the visit. Just a few days hanging out in the coolest city in the world. A year on from the last trip over the Atlantic, I was eager to revisit a few old haunts and discover some new places to shop, to eat and be merry.

Having booked a hotel on Times Square, we headed into Manhattan in a yellow cab. If you ever have trouble adjusting to new cities and getting used to the idea of being somewhere alien, hopping into a NYC cab is a sure way to know you've arrived in a different place. The thick set glass separating you from the driver, the safety notices, the electronic voice that instructs you to put on your seatbelt as soon as your behind hits the leather and the usually friendly and always exotic driver. A world away from London's black cabs where the instructions stop at 'Alright, love'.

Staying in Times Square is staying at the heart of the city. I had worried it may be noisy but in our 25th floor suite the sounds of the city that never sleeps were dim and distant. Just loud enough to remind you where you were, but subtle enough to ignore when it was time to sleep. 

With Broadway just below you are ideally located to access Theatreland, the diamond district and the shopping on 5th Avenue.  The museums, the Rockerfeller Centre and Madison Square Gardens are all just a stone's throw away. In a city which boasts 18,000 restaurants, 150 museums and over 10,000 shopping opportunities it would be rather rude to stay in your hotel room...despite the breathtaking view which stretches from Central Park to the Hudson river.

In 2002 over 34 million visitors came to NYC and spent a grand total of $14.5 billion dollars - I wonder which percentage of that accounts for my new shoes? These positive statistics show that despite the tragic events of September 11th, the city is still attracting the tourists - and so it should.

For first time visitors, essential stops include the Statue of Liberty; the Empire State Building, impressive from below as well as from the top floor; Times Square with its neon strips and bustling crowds; 5th Avenue and its pricey shops, sexy window dressing and upmarket shoppers and finally, Central Park: a breath of fresh air in the concrete jungle.

As for night time activities, a good New York night out boils down to sushi in a quaint, genuine restaurant such as Shiki's on 7th Avenue followed by a couple of drinks at Absolutely Fourth, a hip joint at 4th Street and 7th Avenue.

Prices in the Village area are unforgiving and it's worth checking what you are letting yourself in for. Brits will be surprised to be charged £5 for a beer or even £6 for a glass of red wine. If you fancy yourself as a Sex and the City type, head to Nong on Park Avenue South and 18th. Here, for $10 you can sip a Flirtini (Stoli Raspberry, Chambord, Pineapple Juice, Fresh Lime), see and be seen. Very New York, darling.

If you are travelling on a budget, food can be found at reasonable prices in small local restaurants, avoid anything trendy and head for small delis in the village or Japanese, Chinese and Mexican eateries. Bagels are also a quick, cheap, tasty and satisfying solution. For a few dollars you can order whatever your heart desires. So many toppings, so many choices... For us English, who tend to accept quietly, queue sweetly and smile politely, it’s a whole new world. You mean there is more to it than ham and cheese? America, in my estimation is definitely the land of opportunity when it comes to choice, whether it be food or anything else. Freedom to choose rates highly in my book!

And if all else fails, fast food outlets abound. If you want somewhere smart but with good value for money, head to America on 18th at 5th Avenue, where you will be generously served huge quantities and probably have enough leftovers to bag and take home.

For those sampling the shopping here, don’t forget to add on sales tax. In some stores, the nice cashier will ask for more than what appears on the tag. That can come as a bit of a surprise. After all, why should I part with more dollars than the price tag indicates? Brace yourself for the sales tax and avoid any potentially embarrassing situations!

On day two the weather was so bad that we had to find an alternative to strolling around and window-shopping. After all, if I'd wanted to walk in freezing wind and rain, I would have stayed in London. Having considered all the options we ended up in a movie theatre sampling one of the latest Brian De Palma blockbusters.

The weekend passed in a frenzy of food, shopping and walking around "ooohing" and "aaahing" at the sights. No matter how many times I visit I'm still awe-struck by the architecture, the variety of everything on offer and the sheer scale of the city. And despite the lousy weather I was happy to be in the Big Apple again.

Back on Times Square, the Doubletree suites did a great job at providing us with a bolt-hole: a home from home. The best thing about staying at there is the freedom you have to come and go, the place feels more like an apartment building than a hotel. You can easily by-pass the restaurants and other hotel common areas by passing through the lobby and straight to your room. It gives you a certain feeling of independence, which I really appreciate abroad.

Built in 1990 over the Palace Theatre the suites cater mostly to local clientele and Europeans. Famous faces you may see in the hallway or in the lift include boyband wonders such as Nsync or Broadway stars and legends such as BBKing. During my stay I rubbed shoulders with 'The Rock' a world famous giant wrestler from the WWF.  Not an experience I care to repeat in a hurry...

The best deals to be had at the Doubletree are in January/ February time or in July and August, especially when the locals are out of town on bank holidays such as Labour Day and Memorial Day or even the 4th July. If you are travelling with your family, the hotel has Nintendo games in the rooms, a playroom for kids and they can even arrange for babysitters while you go out and enjoy the city.

Photographs by Mowgli Frere and Rowena Carr-Allinson.

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION:

From bargain basement to extravagantly expensive

TJ Maxx
620 6th Avenue (from 18th and 19th Street),
Phone: 212-229-0875
http://www.tjmaxx.com/

Bed, Bath and Beyond
620 6th Avenue (from 18th and 19th Street),
Tel: (212) 255-3550
http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/

Barney's
660 Madison Avenue and 60th Street
Tel: (212) 339-7300
http://www.barneys.com

Macy's
Broadway and 34th Street (Herald Square)
Tel: (212) 695-4400
http://www.macys.com/

Bloomingdale's
59th Street & Lexington Avenue
Tel: (212) 705-2000
http://www.bloomingdales.com

Saks Fifth Avenue
611 Fifth Avenue (at 50th Street)

Tiffany and Co.
727 Fifth Avenue and 57th Street
Tel: (212) 755-8000

Hotels, Bars and Restaurants

Doubletree Guest Suites New York City
1568 Broadway New York, NY 10036
phone: 212.719.1600 • fax: 212.921.5212
http://www.nychilton.com/hotel4.html  

The Benjamin Hotel
50th Street and Lexington Avenue
http://www.thebenjamin.com/

Nong Restaurant
220 Park Avenue South and 18th Street
212-529-3111
http://nongrestaurant.com/

Shiki's
69 Seventh Avenue. South
Corner of Bleecker St
212 2067024

America Restaurant
9 E. 18th St. at 5th Avenue,
Tel: (212) 505-2110

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