Dining in Park City Utah- its not just about elk anymoreby Darryl Beeson Ski resorts generally are long on slope and short on cuisine. Chile dogs and cold fries are more likely than fine dining. Not so in Park City and nearby Deer Valley in Utah (less than 40 miles from Salt Lake City). Just make sure that your ski jacket has deep enough pockets.
 The traveler to this destination fits a different profile than, say, Aspen, CO. There the food offering is also excellent, and the skiers high profile, to be seen, especially at the newly refurbished Sky Hotel (a Kimpton property, 709 East Durant Avenue, Aspen, 800-882-2582, www.theskyhotel.com ), rubbing elbows with local celebrity homeowners. Park City draws the powerful and international, choosing to stay under the radar. There seem to be more families, often with au pere and children in tow, though children are never under foot.
The Stein Erikson Lodge (7700 Steinway, Deer Valley, 800-4531302, www.steinlodge.com ) offers food from the hearth, being authentic European Alps cuisine. Erikson, the lodge’s namesake, prevailed in the 1952 Winter Olympic Games a little more than fifty years ago, competing in his native Oslo Norway. Eriksen won the gold in the Giant Slalom and the silver in the Slalom. He still, today, is seen on the Utah slopes. Try the true to form cheese fondue and numerous comfort foods in the popular bar area for afternoon consumption, or later continue with dinner at Chef Zane Holmquist’s comfortably elegant Glitertind Restaurant. There are multi-level wine cellars overseen by sommelier Cara Schwindt. Try the slowly braised pork belly appetizer (to re-fuel for next day’s endeavors on the slope) or the Orange Duck entrée, being Muscovy hen breast with carrot cake couscous and heirloom carrots in a Grand Marnier sauce.  DeerValleyEXchef Dining at the Empire Canyon Lodge’s Fireside Restaurant (Deer Valley, 800-424-DEER, www.deervalley.com ) begins with ember warmed Swiss raclette cheese, served with steamed new potatoes, house marinated pearl onions, cornichons, cured Italian and Swiss meats, along with house created mustards. The diner sets the direction and pace, visiting stations at different fireplaces, often staffed by helpful externs from The Culinary Institute of America. At one station, legs of lamb, brushed with fresh herbs, hang from tightly wound string, slowly unwinding to revolve the flesh upon the fire. There are stews, fricassees, a must try gourmet macaroni and cheese, and even a dessert fireplace.
Chef Jodie Rogers and industry veteran Julie Wilson, the Food and Beverage Director, put their hearth, and sometimes sole, into the Fireside’s cuisine. They also both oversee, among other venues, the nearby and wildly successful Seafood Buffet. Speaking of seafood, the fish in Park City is always fresh due to Delta Airline's daily deliveries to the Salt Lake City airport hub.  Texans gravitate to the chilly powder (as opposed to chili powder) of the region’s great ski resorts, and a favorite dining information resource is Mark Doom (a person’s last name that one would possibly re-think regarding the management of a financial portfolio), Senior Vice President for Smith Barney, Dallas. “One of my favorite restaurants is The Riverhorse on Main (540 Main Street, Park City, 435-649-3536, www.riverhorsegroup.com ), being more casual.” The food is precise and of high standards, the prices offer value, and over the past twenty years, it has become both the local and Sundance Festival favorite. Founder Jerry Gilomen has succeeded in a number of endeavors, including marketing wholesale meat, later as an early executive dramatically growing McDonald’s as a restaurant concept, then a land developer and even a concert promoter. He retired at age 42, and has perfected the Riverhorse on Main over the past two decades. In 1995, it was the first restaurant in Utah to receive the DiRoNA Award and in 2000, it achieved Mobil 4 Star status.
At the Riverhorse, try the pot stickers, bacon wrapped tiger shrimp or the Pacific Ahi tuna sashimi as appetizers. A must try entrée is the macadamia nut encrusted halibut, being at or about culinary genius from Chef Seth Adams. If restaurant genius Jerry Gilomen is the father, then Bill White must be the son, though some might argue The Holy Ghost of Park City dining. He has crafted a group of wildly successful venues of various ethnic influence, never compromising upon excellence. This writer’s favorite is Grappa (151 Main, Park City, 435-647-2908, www.grapparestaurant.com ). Try the osso bucco (braised veal shank) with spinach spatzel and roasted garlic gremolata (minced parsley, lemon peel and garlic) in a red wine sauce, or try the chicken saltimbocca (pounded chicken, wrapped with prosciutto, sage leaves and fontina cheese in a crème fraiche veloute. Many important competitors have learned the restaurant business under Chef White and have proceeded to open other great Park City restaurants.  Shabu, (333 Main, Park City, 435-645-7253, www.shabupc.com ) has captured attention due to the brilliance of brothers Kevin and Robert Valaika, disciples of restaurateur Bill White (Grappa, Wahso, Chimayo). Continually crowded, Shabu offers what it calls Freestyle Asian Cuisine, an insightful mix of Japanese, Thai and Chinese nuances. Chef Kevin worked in kitchen management for a few years under the famed Chef Nobu Matsuhisa. Robert Valaika runs the front of the house. Sample appetizers like the spicy tuna rolls, Vietnamese spring rolls or the tsunami crab cakes. A special entrée, not presently on the menu is a saké-steamed sea bass brushed with garlic and black bean paste. The local regulars know to ask for it even if no longer on the menu. Try the moist, wok-seared diver scallops served with mango fried rice. Fun, but much more casual is the namesake shabu-shabu (thin pieces of chicken, pork or seafood, etc…, dunked by the diner in hot broth, being cooked by you at the table). This dish is a time honored practice among Japanese cooks during a communal meal at the end of service, traditionally sourcing scraps from the sushi chef’s station.
Other favorite restaurants according to Mark Doom include Chez Betty, located in the Copper Bottom Inn just off Park Avenue, (1637 Short Line Dr., 435-649-8181, www.chezbetty.com ). “Give them 24 hours notice and they will make a spectacular beef tartar, even though it is not on the menu,” advises Doom, a regular. He also adds that “Adolf’s is great for steaks, prime rib, and even buffalo (1500 Keams Blvd, Park City, 435-649-7177, www.adolphsrestaurant.com )." Consult websites for information about days open and hours of operation as these vary with seasons. Where to stay-The Washington School Inn (543 Park Avenue, 800-824-1672/435-649-3800 www.washingtonschoolinn.com ) is a bed and breakfast is positioned within the majestic Wasatch mountains and is conveniently located in the heart of historic old town Park City, being two blocks from the town ski lift. Housed in an 1889 sandstone schoolhouse, this very residential feeling inn has managed to preserve the old school house’s original charm, though it's now completely modernized. Prices vary by season and are in no way outrageous. A hot breakfast and afternoon nibbles are included. Darryl Beeson teaches professional certification for www.internationalsommelier.com. Says writer Roy Blount, Jr., “Wine is tough, but I know Darryl can do it.” |
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