Cruising Fiji's Outer Islands:A South Seas AdventureBy Chris Millikan Day 1: Joining seventy adventurous voyagers and winsome Fijian crew, we explore Fiji's remote northern islands…the easy way.
Our ship first anchors alee Nananu-I-Ra Island, along the majestic Nakauvadra Mountain Range, home of Degei (Serpent God) creator of all islands. We snorkel in the golden afternoon. The Captain's welcoming  dinner presents scrumptious South Pacific cuisine. Extraordinary shore experiences alternate with sundeck lazing, cultural seminars, sky deck sunsets and delectable dining. Every morning we snorkel in crystal clear Fijian waters and explore dazzling coral reefs before sailing off for new stops.  Day 2: Levuka's former Lord Mayor waits dockside to lead us through Fiji's first capital. George introduces his historic town, “…as a chief port for sandalwood traders, whalers and copra exporters.”
Clapboard buildings along narrow streets reflect Fijian 'firsts': first public school; first Masonic Lodge; first newspaper and first bank. Oldest operating in the South Pacific, the Royal Hotel invokes the 1850's with polished hardwood floors, vintage , century-old-billiard table and antique vases. We easily imagine grizzled sea captains out front, once auctioning black-birded slaves for island cotton plantations. Nearby stands Navoka Methodist, Fiji's oldest church and 199 steps leading past colonial homes and Delano Methodist School. Atop Mission Hill, we view Levuka Village where Chiefs welcomed early settlers and Niukaube Hill where Cakobau, Fiji's first king erected his courts and parliament. George remarks, “Our only neon-sign sits atop Sacred Heart Church's stone tower; a lime-green cross signals to ships at sea…Its French clock has gonged village time since 1858…” Beyond the working harbour, three smooth stones at the Cessation Site commemorate King Cakobau's handover of Fiji to Queen Victoria in 1874. There, Prince Charles declared Fijian independence almost a century later. King Cakobau's great grandson now works to make Levuka-town a World Heritage Site. Day 3- Beaching on lush Taveuni at dawn, we explore Fiji's third-largest island. An open-air bus shuttles us to the once divisive180-degree meridian outside Waiyevo-town; everyone straddles the 'today' and 'yesterday' marker. Redrawing the international dateline eliminated a confusing time warp; now days dawn simultaneously throughout Fiji.  Wairiki Catholic Mission stretches along a nearby hillside, palms flanking its century-old stone Romanesque church. Off the historic beach below, Taveuni's once-feared warriors defeated Tongans in fierce canoe-battle. The priest points out, “On Sundays, parishioners enter these grand wooden doors, sit on floor mats and sing joyous hymns. Our remarkable stained glass windows came from a cathedral demolished during the French Revolution.” Over a thousand students attend mission classes; we wonder if the nearby slit-drum summons them to class.
Heading inland, purple creepers and white-blossomed vines cling riotously along cliffs; several palms and lacy ferns grow nowhere else on earth. Much of Bouma National Heritage Park's 37000-acre rainforest remains unexplored. Some of Fiji's 170 orchids thrive in this eco-park, though few witness rare glorious-red and white Tagimaucia orchids blooming at the crater-lake. Over 100 bird species attract enthusiastic birdwatchers.  We hike toward Tovoro Falls along a grassy trail edged with ti hedges and papaya, mango and breadfruit trees. Along the way, our guide shows us kava, taro and cassava, important root crops in Fiji. At the dramatic 100-foot lower falls, swimmers plunge into the inviting crystal pool; enormous Tahitian chestnut trees shade onlookers. Sweet-scented red gingers punctuate the dense greenery.
 Day 4: Anchoring off Rabi, Tabiang villagers greet us on their beach. As a brass band belts out “Onward Christian Soldiers,” we parade like celebrities to shaded chairs. With solemnity, traditionally dressed performers position glorious floral crowns on our heads. Following enthusiastic welcomes, juicy drinks provide unexpected amusement. Sipping from tiny holes in upended coconut husks isn't that easy…straws arrive too late to prevent chin-dribbles!
A spokesman explains, “We're Banabans from a small coral atoll in Micronesia. Phosphate mining devastated Ocean Island, so the British bought Rabi for resettlement. Fijian citizens since 1945, we've adopted postal, education and money systems, drink kava and are Methodists. Speaking Gilbertese, our lifestyle preserves age-old traditions.” In front of us, a small chorus sings powerful stories from a homeland1600 miles away. Whirling grass skirts whisper and swish vigorously; ornate shell necklaces and belts twirl wildly; girls' elaborate woven headdresses bob vigorously as young dancers interpret age-old stories with intricate footsteps and hand-movements. Onboard, we show off our new woven floor mats and colourful mobiles as the captain weighs anchor for Kioa. Sharing a similar story, the inhabitants faced overpopulation in the former Ellice Islands and bought Kioa in 1947. In an enchanting Polynesian village of 300, they speak Tuvaluan and maintain ancient customs.  Wearing sulus and floral headdresses, men and women paddle to meet us in a flotilla draped with greenery. Rhythmically thwacking outrigger-sides with paddles and singing harmoniously, they circle the ship before escorting us to Saila.
In the main hall, grass-skirted men bedecked with palm leaf salusalu garlands and women in fuscia-pink floral sulus perform compelling dances. Amid the melodious chorus, men wail on an eight-foot drumhead, building exotic rhythms to thundering crescendos; dancers keep perfect pace, missing not a single beat. Villagers invite us to join them in their meke. Laughing merrily, we try valiantly to match frenzied drumbeats with vigorous dance-steps. Well-known for fine basketry, we re-board with prized souvenirs.  Day 5: Docking in Savusavu Bay, we see how sleek yahts have replaced the early crowds of trading ships when it served as a colonial hub. Though Savusavu still continues as a copra town on Vanua Levu, Fiji's 'other big island.' Surrounded by old coconut estates, silvery mists do little to obscure its lush secluded loveliness.
Across the bay lies Nawi Island, home to Fiji's leading pearl farm. In a shed perched on stilts, our guide lets us finger iridescent pearls. “Experts insert mantle bits into each oyster during spawning season; four years later, we harvest lustrous cultured pearls,” she grins. The glass-bottomed boat returns us ashore as we view thousands of implanted black lip oysters buoyed at differing depths in mesh bags. Steam-plumes rising from the beach lend surreal charm to this laid-back outpost. Journalizing details of 1840's Fiji, Commodore Wilkes noted five shoreline hot springs; today there're four. Barefooted, a fellow voyager jumps frantically from spot-to-spot, realizing too late that boiling waters saturate a wide area. We meander past clapboard shops along the one main street and cut up a side road. At the public springs where local matrons still boil taro, yams and cassava, we visit with brothers waiting for their bag of rice to cook. Up the hill at the Hot Springs Hotel, morning tea is served on the patio overlooking spectacular Savusavu Bay. A string quartet fills the lobby with lively Fijian melodies. From the craft market, we choose a hand-carved kava bowl. Caressing the lovely wood we predict, “It'll be terrific for candies or nuts.” Waving goodbye as families cast their hand-lines off the wharf, we depart to try our own luck along Yadua Passage, renowned for good fishing.  Day 6: Arriving at Navotua, a Fijian village, we enter the community bure and sit cross-legged around the kava bowl, sharing a centuries-old welcome ritual. Elected Rutu-chief-for-a-day, the cupbearer first serves Rick the muddy ceremonial drink concocted from pepper-plant roots.
 Tongues tingling, we join villagers in a merry making meke, shuffling around in “tra-la-las” and snake dancing. Afterwards we wander the shell market, chatting with craftswomen.
Sailing southward we imagine Captain Bligh eluding canoe pursuits along gorgeous Yasawa shorelines. Following the legendary Mutiny on the Bounty in 1789, he charted these lovely turquoise waters still bearing his name. On Nanuya Lai Lai, we relax on a palm-fringed beach and snorkel its incredible reef. Leaf-wrapped meats, fish and root vegetables bake slowly over hot stones in a traditional earth oven. Served under lantern-lit trees, lovo-feasting concludes an awesome week. Day 7: Nearing Lautoka the next morning, our crew sings the haunting Fijian farewell song Isa Lei, leaving many eyes misty. Yearning to return soon, we cast still fragrant flower-garlands into the foaming wake… Travel Planner: Fiji Tourism www.bulafiji.com Blue Lagoon Cruises www.bluelagooncruises.com
Offering seven-day cultural odysseys three times annually. First Landing www.firstlandingfiji.com
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