Holiday on the North Sea

By Marilyn Loeser

Perched on the edge of the North Sea, the Suffolk town of Aldeburgh — pronounced O-brah — is known for its seaside pleasures all year round. Fine dining, upscale shopping and strolling along the pebbled beach draw guests from all over the UK and around the world for weekends or week-long adventures in relaxation.

Once upon a time

I’ve visited the seaside village in summer and winter. Constantly battered by the sea, your faithful companion is the wind making this a mythical, illusionary place to explore — down narrow alleys, stopping off in a centuries-old hotel or pub for a drink, listening to the continuous rush of wind and call of shore birds.

Archeologists researching the area conclude this was first a Roman settlement before being deserted and reclaimed by the Saxons who named it Alde burh or "old defended enclosure."

During the 12th and 13th centuries neighboring Dunwich — with its harbor able to shelter large ships and fishing boats — dominated sea trade in the area. Dunwich’s business declined after centuries of storms battered its harbor and by 1500 Aldeburgh was emerging as the area’s prosperous port and center for ship-building.

Sir Francis Drake's ships Greyhound and Pelican were built in Aldeburgh. It’s believed the flag ship of the Virginia Company, the Sea Venture, was built here in 1608.
The same fate that diminished trade in Dunwich found Aldeburgh as well. Although shipbuilding and trade thrived, it became increasingly hard for residents to battle the elements.

By 1800 the encroachment of the sea left the few remaining residents impoverished and without work.

As fate would have it, it was the wealthy and titled who began to recognize Aldeburgh as an alternative to the crowded beaches of the South Coast.

Roads were improved and first-class houses and lodgings were built.

Much of this whimsical architecture remains in the village.

Visiting in the 21st century

You may find Aldeburgh — with its crashing waves, upscale shopping and famous fish and chips — more familiar than you think.

Perhaps you remember reading about Orlando - The Marmalade Cat by Kathleen Hale. "Owlbarrow" is actually Aldeburgh where the series of illustrated children’s books are centered.

Many of the illustrations feature landmarks in town including the timber-framed Moot Hall. For more than 400 years, the hall has been used for council meetings. It also houses the local museum.

Another interesting piece of history located at the southern end of the beach is a Martello Tower.

Towers like this one were built in the early 1800s to defend the south and east coast of England against possible invasion from France, then under the rule of the Emperor Napoleon.

In addition to tourism, fishing and boat building are still the town’s economic foundations in the 21st century.

The sea front has changed little since Victorian times; looking like pastel building blocks facing the sea. High Street is lined with shops and galleries, a small cinema and restaurants offering selections for every pallet.

As much as some things change, some things stay the same — a vacation destination for more than two centuries, Aldeburgh always has her welcome mat out.

If you go:

Brudenell Hotel is situated on the seafront and an excellent choice for accommodations.

This is where my husband and I stayed during our recent winter visit. Our room looked out over the North Sea, a wild grey torrent of sea and spray.

The complementary full-English breakfast was excellent as was our evening meal. The restaurant offers a panoramic view of the sea and specializes in seafood and grills.

For more information or to make a reservation call 01728 452071 (from the United States, call 01144 1728 452071) or e-mail info@brudenellhotel.co.uk. The website is brudenellhotel.co.uk.

Rail services runs from Liverpool Street to Saxmundham, approx 6 miles from Aldeburgh.

Always consider BritRail if you’re traveling through the UK by train. The BritRail website http://www.britrail.net/index.html highlights maps and special price-saving passes. You can also call 1-866-BRITRAIL. Passes are the most convenient — one ticket is good on more than 18,000 daily train departures in England, Scotland and Wales — and economical because they can be purchased for different increments of time.

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