No matter the weather, Dublin offers a warm welcome

By Marilyn Loeser

A cold wind tugs at my hat as my husband Mark and I walk along a Dublin Street. Winter in Ireland — the sun rise is tardy and sets before 5 p.m. And like this day, the frosty air is often mixed with a fine mist.

Our destination is Dublin Castle, a complex representing some of the oldest surviving architecture in the city. The castle served as the center of English power in Ireland for more than 700 years until 1922 when Dublin and 26 of the 32 Irish counties became the Irish Free State, now the Irish Republic.

As soon as we entered the historic building, the rain and chill-filled day disappeared as we closed the massive doors behind us and entered the warmth of an ornate hall.

Our small tour group assembled, we followed our guide up a grand staircase and into the history of the castle, the city and the Republic of Ireland.

The castle and city get their name from the Dubh Linn or Black Pool. Situated on the high ground, the castle was built at the junction of the River Liffey and its tributary — the now underground Black Pool — which formed a natural boundary. A Danish Viking Fortress stood on the site in the 930s and was used as a military base and trading center in Ireland.

The Vikings were conquered by an Irish army in 1014, but the victory was short-lived. The Normans invaded in 1169 and strengthened and expanded Dublin.

In 1204, King John of England took command of the castle to defend the city, administer the government and protect its treasures.

“The Record Tower is the only remaining medieval tower,” our guide said. “It was used as a high security prison and held native Irish hostages and priests in the time of Henry VIII.”

Other towers, long gone, served as guard posts and excellent vantage points for archers defending the castle. With time, the castle changed and so did its many functions.

It was, however, always the center of the English colonial administration and the official residence of royal representatives throughout the ages. In 1565 — 30 years after Henry VIII brought the Reformation to Ireland — Lord Deputy Henry Sidney moved his household into Dublin Castle. From then on the castle became the control center of wars and religious persecution against the Irish Chieftains and the Old English Catholics, many of Norman decent.

By the end of Queen Elizabeth's reign in 1603, all of Ireland had been conquered and new English landholding, political and social structures imposed.

It would be more than 300 years before rebellion and war would place power back in Irish hands.

The castle still plays its part in hosting heads of state and leaders of business, industry and government. Ireland’s presidential inaugurations have taken place here since 1945.

Building on centuries of information, our guide showed us through state apartments, renovated in 1746. These rooms were once used by members of the royal family and other dignitaries. The last person to stay in the royal bedrooms was Margaret Thatcher during the 1979 European Council meeting.

Another imposing room open for viewing is St. Patrick's Hall, a vast ballroom in which the presidential inaugurations take place.

The Throne Room, containing a throne from the reign of King William III is another beautifully adorned room.

I found the last part of the tour one of the most interesting. Our guide took us underground to see first-hand the earliest foundations of the castle where the city walls join the castle.

Here you can see an archway that allowed small boats carrying provisions from larger boats moored on the river to bring supplies into the castle.

If you go:

The complex of buildings is open to the public, except during state functions.

Dublin Castle is currently maintained by the Office of Public Works and houses the Revenue Commissioners’ offices.

For more information, check the website at www.dublincastle.ie.

An excellent hotel, located in the heart of the city, near major attractions and bus lines is The Merrion Hotel.

Just as you’ll feel like you’re being whisked away back in time when you visit Dublin Castle, so too will you feel like royalty when you stay at this 5 star hotel.

Ingeniously created by connecting four Georgian town houses, the hotel is surrounded by ornate period gardens. Even during our winter visit, the gardens were beautiful in their geometric and traditional designs.

Rooms and suites include the contemporary as well as original rooms and suites capturing the grandeur of the Georgian Era with delicate roccoco plasterwork and original marble fireplaces.

The hotel’s dining options include The Cellar Restaurant. Open for lunch and dinner, the restaurant serves traditional Irish cuisine beneath its beautifully vaulted ceiling.

One of Ireland’s most award-winning restaurants, Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud overlooks the hotel’s gardens.

The Merrion Hotel is close to several historic buildings and public parks. From the hotel, it’s a short walk to The Royal Hibernian Academy of Art in Ely Place and the adjacent St Stephen's Green with its lively pubs, shops and restaurants. Grafton Street is close-by and offers the latest designer shops.

For more information check the website at http://www.merrionhotel.com.

For more information on additional attractions, accommodations and restaurants, check the website at http://www.visitdublin.com.

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