Into West Maui’s PastHistoric Ka’anapaliBy Chris Millikan
And modern-day revelers continue in that tradition, still basking in Ka’anapali’s sunshine, playing and paddling in warm surf…or taking it easy under brightly colored umbrellas We meet our guides under a thatched hale fronting Royal Lahaina Resort’s luau grounds. Grinning, Keli’i suggests, “Close your eyes…and visualize the abundant mango orchards once flourishing here or the sweeping royal gardens where villagers cultivated sweet potatoes and taro for Maui’s kings, favoured food staples to this day.” I muse, “It sure looks different these days.”
Over at the celebrated Black Rock popular with today’s snorkelers, we visualize the temple that had perched on top in ancient times. “Still sacred in modern Hawaii, even now our souls leap into eternity from up there,” observes Mi’ilani. “And just like our last great chief who was known for cliff-diving, divers jump down at sunset.” On the Black Rock’s other side, a mile-long pier had off-loaded sugarcane and cattle to waiting ships…and popular with the workers and wealthy alike, a plantation-era racetrack had stretched along 3-and-a-half-miles of oceanfront, now dotted with luxury resorts and extravagant condos. Although difficult to imagine nowadays, the beautiful golf course running the length of the Ka’anapali Parkway is the site of an ancient battleground. For days the burbling little stream had flowed red with blood and colored foreshore waters at Hanakao’o Point. “And one legend says Hina once hid her son, the demigod Maui, up in the mountains to avoid sacrifice,” whispered Mi’ilani. Soon after immersing ourselves in the past, we indulge in a late afternoon couples massage back at the Westin Maui Hotel, a remarkable change-of-pace. Based in Hawaiian healing arts, the lomi lomi treatment completely nurtures. Gentle hands deliver strong rhythmically flowing movements using light, medium and long connected strokes…and elicit deep relaxation integrating the body and spirit. Traditional lomi lomi massage techniques are available at several oceanfront luxury spas, where island visitors are treated as if they were Kamehameha kings and queens themselves! Following our spa experience, we almost feel like royalty, fresh, energetic and ready for anything further that the holiday could bring: Hawaiian story-talks, arts and crafts searches…or perhaps some hula lessons… Among other modern-day delights based in age-old traditions, the ever-popular luau stands out. At one time, royals and commoners…as well as men and women…ate their meals apart. But when King Kamehameha II abolished those ancient customs, this new shared meal developed.
Peppered with that same well-known hospitality, we find the Hyatt’s luau tables are piled high with similar cuisine, native foods as well as dishes arriving with the peoples who make up Hawaiian culture. Even some of the recipes are available to try out back home… And colorful pageantry in the “Drums of the Pacific” show features native hula and Polynesian dances, including chilling chants and stories, time-honored island music…and the fiery twirling of Samoan fire dancers…always sure to carry you off to different times! Uncovering some of West Maui’s captivating past puts a meaningful spin on the present day, all around historic Ka’anapalai. For Further Information:
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West Maui has attracted holidaymakers for centuries. Even in old Hawaii, the legendary Kamehameha kings and queens recognized a good thing when they saw it. Staging extravagant luaus and riding their sleek koa-wood surfboards all up and down Ka’anapali’s magnificent golden beach, they’d regularly relaxed and amused themselves for days.
blooming along shimmering sands. But…abandoning that laidback beach-life for one fascinating day, we walk and shuttle our way into a riveting past on a Historical Trail and Legends tour.
Next stopping alongside groomed hedges at the Eldorado’s golf course, we spy two rusty-brown pohaku stones artifacts, uncovered during resort development. Miliani smiles, explaining, “Here, modern Ka’anapali still reflects familiar legends: Demigod Maui turned his lazy friend into this largest stone, to sleep permanently…a tough lesson for mocking hard work. That smaller stone was a beautiful woman who escaped her village with help from Pueo, the spirit-owl, believed to watch over villagers from a secret cave high up in West Maui’s mountains.”
Looking north toward Kahekil’i Beach Park, Keli’i reminisces, “In a bygone era, thousands of warriors trained over on that beach…and Hawaiians left from there in koa-wood canoes to visit their neighbors on Lana’i.” Later called Airport Beach, old airstrip sections from those days remain off in the bushes. “The terminal’s Windsock Bar was well-known by travelers between 1960 and 1987…for great Bloody Marys!” he winks knowingly.
Since 1819, luau feasts overflowing with foods fit for a king, music, songs and dances have marked births, first birthdays and marriages. The roast imu pork, coconut chicken, pineapple, poi, sweet potatoes and fresh island fish…and coconut pudding for dessert…were originally spread on woven floor mats; the elaborate centerpieces were made from flowers, ti leaves and ferns.