Art, Sheep and a Whole Lot More

“Diverse” is the Word for South-Central Montana

By Joyce Dalton

At 147,138 square miles, Montana is our fourth largest state, so maybe it’s not surprising that it offers as diverse a sightseeing op as any tourist could wish. But galleries filled with paintings and bronzes, museum exhibits ranging from Native American crafts to the history of mining, small towns straight out of western movies, historic hotels and cozy bed and breakfast places, unparalleled mountain scenery, pig races and sheep runs all within an area that surely encompasses no more than one-thirtieth of the state –  that’s not your everyday destination.

The region under focus forms a shape that eludes the realm of geometry, starting at Red Lodge, 60 miles southwest of Billings, the state’s largest city, and not far from the Wyoming border. Moving northeast through Fromberg, Boyd and Joliet, or northwest via Roscoe, Fishtail, Nye, Absarokee, and Columbus, we hit Interstate 90. From there, it’s less than an hour’s drive westward to Big Timber, excluding necessary stops in Reed Point and Greycliff. Sounds like a lot, but consider that the largest town, Red Lodge, claims a population of only 2,200.

If the census counted all the people who visit Red Lodge, fall in love with its small town charm, majestic mountains and friendly people, then end up buying a vacation home here, the population would more than double. For the visitor with only a few days to spare, the sightseeing choices are many and varied.

No one should even consider leaving town without driving at least a part of the 68-mile Beartooth Scenic Byway, designated “the most beautiful roadway in America” by CBS’s former “On the Road” correspondent, Charles Kurait. Constructed between 1931 and 1936, the highway was an amazing feat of engineering. Starting in Red Lodge, it traverses numerous switchbacks, meadows covered with snow or wildflowers depending on the season (the Beartooth mountain range claims the greatest variety of wildflowers in the world), twin lakes, and forests of lodgepole pine, Douglas fir and spruce. Though not always visible, elk, bear, moose and deer call the region home. Crossing passes up to 10,947 ft., the route climbs and dips its way through parts of both Montana and Wyoming before culminating at Yellowstone National Park. The highway is closed between mid-October and mid-May.

Red Lodge attracts artists and craftspeople so shoppers and “appreciators” could happily spend several hours ambling along the three shop-lined blocks of Broadway, the main street. Be sure to check out the Depot Gallery, housed in the former train station, for paintings; Common Ground for fine western art, decorative items and handmade furnishings; Clay Café for pottery and metalwork; Flash’s Photography Studio and Merv Coleman’s Gallery for wonderful photo images of western scenery and wildlife, and Rocky Fork Juniper where four fellows craft some of the most unique and striking furniture imaginable. For a fun and tasty experience, head for the Montana Candy Emporium, housed in an old movie theater and filled with early to mid 20th century memorabilia and rows of baskets overflowing with all the candies you remember from childhood. Pick up a bag and help yourself; then, forget the calories and sample the best fudge around.

To gather a bit of local history while seeing the town, hop on the red and yellow horse-drawn stagecoach that plies Broadway and districts once known as Finn Town, Little Italy and Hi Bug (where grand Victorians were home to management types back when Red Lodge’s economy revolved around mining).

More local history can be absorbed at the Peaks to Plains Museum, housed in Montana’s first Labor Temple, dating to 1908. Exhibits remember the various ethnic groups that immigrated to Red Lodge; the Greenough and Linderman families of rodeo champions; Liver Eatin’ Johnson, the town’s first sheriff; Buffalo Bill and Calamity Jane, both frequent visitors; the building of the Beartooth Highway, and the early 20th century coal mining days.

Animal lovers might visit the Beartooth Nature Center, a refuge for abandoned and injured native animals that can no longer survive in the wild. The center is home to black bears, mountain lions, elk, foxes, coyotes, bobcats and Luther the Moose, whose birthday is celebrated annually on the first Saturday in June with a carrot cake and a rendering of “Happy Birthday, Dear Luther” by his many admirers.

For animals of another sort, take in the pig races at the Bearcreek Saloon, seven miles east of Red Lodge. Decked out in colored, numbered jerseys, the porkers run (well, sort of) around an oval track to be first at the food trough at the far end. Onlookers needn’t race for their dinners; wait staff, decked out in “Where pigs do fly!” T-shirts, serve western-sized steak, chicken and seafood entrees. Since the track is outdoors, adult pigs race only on summer weekends. However, winter finds five-week old baby pigs in action on the restaurant’s indoor stage; some jog, others walk and a few would rather press their noses against the Plexiglas shield to stare at the two-legged species staring at them.

If sports and the outdoors are your thing, Red Lodge boasts a 70-trail ski mountain, Nordic and backcountry skiing and an 18-hole golf course. The Beartooth Mountains offer superb hiking and mountain biking, while nearby rivers await rafting, kayaking and fly fishing enthusiasts.

With a bit of planning, you might time your trip around one or more of Red Lodge’s annual events. Not surprisingly, many take place during the summer: the Home of Champions Rodeo, a three-day competition; an art-filled day when local artists set up their easels around town and the environs; the Beartooth Rally where several thousand bikers head over the Beartooth Byway, then line both sides of Broadway with their fancy (and expensive) motorcycles; the Montana state Old-Time Fiddlers’ Contest with talent ranging from kids to Seniors; the Festival of Nations (2004 marks its 54th year), a three-day celebration of the town’s multi-ethnic heritage featuring traditional dress, dances and music, and the Mountain Man Rendezvous, a 10-day gathering where participants’ dress, shelter, demonstrations and trade goods are faithful to the early 19th century fur-trading era.

Other seasons claim their special moments, too. March hosts the Winter Carnival with snow sculpting, snowshoe races and a variety of family activities. It’s also the month for the National Finals Ski-Joring competition where humans and horses race through a slalom course. Memorial Day sees craftspeople from throughout the state and beyond setting up booths in the town park, while November finds area chefs joining in a culinary competition, with samples for all, during the Taste of Red Lodge. In early December, merchants set out snacks and beverages during the two-night Christmas Stroll, while carolers add to the festive air.

Heading north from Red Lodge on Rt. 212, keep an eye peeled for the Boyd General Store, about halfway between the towns of Roberts and Joliet. With fancy individual post boxes sporting shiny metal stars (the Boyd post office, tucked in a corner of the store, surely must be one of the tiniest government facilities in the country), a small counter for soup and coffee, grocery staples and cluttered showcases, it’s a step into the western past, but this little wooden store displays and sells a goodly variety of Native American crafts, as well.

A short detour to the east wouldn’t be amiss if your goal is the tiny town of Fromberg, situated on the Clarks Fork River. The big draw here is the Little Cowboy Bar and Museum where Shirley Smith, creator and proprietor of both, can recount the history, legends and colorful figures of the area, including those of the Pryor Mountains to the southeast. The Pryors claim a wild horse range, long-horned mountain sheep, ancient petroglyphs, twisted juniper trees and the Little People, a mythic (or real, depending on your source) race of people. If the bar’s not busy, Shirley might slip a video of the Little People or Earl Durand, described variously as a Robin Hood figure or an outlaw, in the VCR. An upscale store selling western-style leather and beaded clothing stands next to the bar/museum and just across the street, the blacksmith shop is a great place to poke around. Everett, the blacksmith, fashions metal flowers and napkin rings along with the more expected objects; in his spare time, he writes poetry.

Back on Rt. 212, the Charles Ringer Studio in Joliet shows what a master artist can create from old vehicles (at least 70 to date), juke boxes (16), and bits of cast iron, steel and copper. A ’59 Pontiac is now part of a flower sculpture, old boots are outfitted with metal claw toes, mobiles sway and twist and huge metal “monsters” greet passersby. Collectors worldwide own Ringer’s sculptures, including Bill Clinton who bought a kinetic steel donkey. A letter from the former president is on view in the studio. Ringer’s showroom displays creations ranging from $300 to $6,000.

From Joliet, Rt. 421 leads westward to Columbus and the Interstate, but if time allows, it’s worth retracing your tracks back to Red Lodge, then heading northwest on Rt. 78 to enjoy gorgeous mountain vistas, along with some interesting stops and at least two special restaurants.

About 15 minutes beyond an early 20th century frame schoolhouse complete with colorful trompe l’oeil windows, you’ll see the turn for Roscoe, a town most notable for the Grizzly Bar & Restaurant, complete with cowboys at the bar and first-rate steaks on the table. At Pioneer Pottery, also in Roscoe, crafts lovers can observe potters as they create individually decorated mugs, bowls and small vases.

Continuing along Rt. 78, a country road to your left leads to the small towns of Fishtail and Nye. The former has comfortable ranch accommodations at the Diamond C Guest House and a fun (and good) restaurant, the Cowboy Bar & Supper Club. While in Fishtail, stop at the General Store where the motto is “A little bit of everything since 1900.” Owners Katy and Bill Martin most likely will invite you to autograph their picnic table. Across the street, the Rock Shop displays collages of arrowheads and pottery shards and sells desert roses (naturally-formed sand sculptures), various types of quartz, fossils and petrified wood.

For those with the time and inclination, Nye, 10 miles farther along Rt. 419, offers numerous hiking trails to challenge all levels of ability. Cliffs rise on one side and the Stillwater River races along the other.

Back on the main road, which follows portions of the historic Bozeman Trail, Absarokee, positively metropolitan (population 1,067) compared to the three previous towns, claims a few nice shops such as Charmed, Inc. For whitewater rafting and kayaking experiences or a rafting/horseback riding combination, talk to the guides at Absaroka River Adventures. Each Labor Day weekend, Absarokee hosts a crafts and farmers market on the grounds adjoining what’s known as the Cobblestone Building. You’ll see Hutterites selling veggies straight from the farm while local fiddlers and country singers entertain.

Fifteen miles farther, the Museum of the Beartooths at Columbus is primarily devoted to local memorabilia, though the graphic images of the last hanging in Stillwater county, along with equally graphic of the murder that led to it, are pretty dramatic.

Assuming you can stand cigarette smoke or have the ability to hold your breath for an extended time, check out Columbus’ New Atlas Bar which, in its own Montana way, is quite an attraction. More than 50 animal heads plus a smattering of whole taxidermed smaller creatures hang and stand beneath the pressed tin ceiling and around the two mammoth wooden bars. Dead animals may not be to everybody’s liking but the New Atlas remains unique, even for Montana.

At Columbus, pick up Interstate 90 west, following the Yellowstone River. For the moment, bypass Reed Point (its annual Sheep Run is such a great way to end a trip) and drive on to Greycliff and the Prairie Dog Town. Encompassing 98 acres, this state park is a mass of burrows where black-tailed prairie dogs dwell, protected by several state agencies. Interpretive displays offer insights into the lives and behaviors of these curious creatures.

On to Big Timber, a town of 1,650 situated between the Boulder and Yellowstone Rivers.  The place retains an old west ambience while offering a number of galleries, a couple of excellent lodging choices, and magnificent views of the Crazy and Absaroka mountain ranges. Fishing opportunities abound, along with hiking, horseback riding, rafting and camping. Attracted by the region’s beauty and the laid-back nature of its townspeople, celebrities such as Tom Brokaw, Brooke Shields and Michael Keaton have purchased ranches in the nearby Boulder Valley.

According to one resident (who felt he hadn’t earned the title of “local” since he has only lived in Big Timber 37 years), a few decades ago, if you weren’t Norwegian, you were an outcast. And in fact, the Crazy Mountain Museum boasts a Stabbur, a two-story log storehouse sitting several feet off the ground on wooden posts. In times past, a farmer’s wealth was determined by the amount of food stored in his stabbur. The structure stands as a tribute to the many Norwegian pioneers who helped build Sweet Grass County. The museum also displays exhibits dedicated to Lewis & Clark’s explorations (they camped in the area), cowboy gear, sheep ranching and the first settlers. An early 20th century schoolhouse stands on the grounds.

Notable Big Timber galleries and shops include Dale Hodges Fine Arts featuring bronze sculptures by Hodges, western-themed oil paintings, batiks and Navajo jewelry and rugs; Wild Winds Gallery with old , Navajo rugs, jewelry and bronze sculptures of cowboys and horses by Dale E. Wood, and Cinnabar Creek for gifts, books and western clothes.

Annual events include the Big Timber Rodeo; Bull-A Rama with top bull riders from several western states and Canada competing; Sweet Grass Fest, and Winter Camp Cowboy Poetry and Music, a three-day event.

If your visit falls in late August, the Great Montana Sheep Drive at Reed Point is a special way to wind up a western experience. Claiming barely over 100 people, Reed Point seems almost a museum village with its wood-front buildings, saloon, historic hotel boasting all of five guest rooms, picturesque granary and plank sidewalks. But when the sheep run, Reed Point comes alive. Crafts and food vendors line the main street, the saloon and Montana Hotel restaurant have standing room only and thousands of visitors vie for the best views when up to 1,200 sheep are let loose through the few blocks of downtown. Something of a wooly Pamplona, Reed Point’s sheep run makes for a fun and certainly, unique, day. National Geographic has filmed the event for its “Explorer” series and a book called “Eccentric America,” appropriately enough, includes the run. Throughout the day, pre-run activities range from sheep shearing to log sawing, a staged shoot-out and a parade filled with horsemen, bands, antique cars, stagecoaches and wagon trains.

For a vacation that puts relatively few miles on your odometer, but plenty of memories in the scrapbook, this bit of south-central Montana is hard to beat.

IF YOU GO –

For information

TRAVEL MONTANA (state tourism organization). 406/444-1356 or 800/548-3390. www.visitmt.com.

YELLOWSTONE COUNTRY (tourism unit encompassing all sites mentioned). 406/556-8680 or 800/736-5276. www.yellowstone.visitmt.com.

RED LODGE AREA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE. 406/446-1718 or 888/281-0625. www.redlodge.com

STILLWATER COUNTY CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (Absarokee, Columbus, Fishtail, Nye, Reed Point). 406/322-4505. www.stillwater-chamber.org.

SWEET GRASS COUNTY CHAMBER OF COMMERCE (Big Timber, Greycliff). 406/932-5131. www.bigtimber.com.

REED POINT COMMUNITY CLUB. 406/326-2325.

Lodging and Dining

Red Lodge:

THE POLLARD HOTEL. 406/446-0001 or 800-POLLARD. www.pollard.com. This historic property, in its earlier days frequented by Buffalo Bill and Calamity Jane, is situated in the heart of town. It boasts 39 well-furnished guest rooms and suites, each with private bath. Public spaces, many oak-paneled, include an award-winning restaurant, a pub which often features live entertainment, a health club, a gift shop, four meeting rooms and a gallery highlighted by a three-story atrium and huge fireplace. The Pollard is a member of Historic Hotels of America.

WEATHERSON INN BED & BREAKFAST. 406/446-0213. www.weathersoninn.com. An easy walk from town center, this early 20th century Victorian home offers two comfortable guest rooms (a bedroom and a suite, both with private baths) with period-appropriate furnishings and décor. The owners spent 10 years in Switzerland and have incorporated European and regional antiques throughout the house. A bountiful, but elegant, breakfast is served in a window-filled breakfast room or on the deck. Guests enjoy the run of the house, including a large collection of videos.

BEARCREEK SALOON. 406/446-3481. www.redlodge.com/bearcreek. A fun spot for steaks, fish and pig races.

BOGART’S. 406/446-1784. www.redlodge.com/bogarts. Filled with of you-know-who, Bogart’s is a casual place for pasta, burgers, pizza and Mexican food.

BRIDGE CREEK BACKCOUNTRY KITCHEN & WINE BAR. 406/446-9900. www.eatfooddrinkwine.com. The lunch menu presents a variety of salads, soups, sandwiches and light entrees. For dinner, select from fish, beef and pasta dishes.

Roscoe:

GRIZZLY BAR & RESTAURANT. 406/328-6789.

Fishtail:

DIAMOND C GUEST HOUSE. 406/328-4142. Located on a working ranch, this comfortable, casual home offers a living room, kitchen, bath and two bedrooms on the main floor plus a living room, kitchen, bath and one bedroom on the lower level. Both levels have decks. A large spare room is equipped with bunk beds and a sofa-bed. There’s hiking and biking on the ranch and a petting zoo is planned. Guests can rent the upstairs, downstairs, bunkroom or entire house.

COWBOY BAR & SUPPER CLUB. 406/328-4288. Twinkle lights and western mementos surround the tables and bar of this cowboy funky restaurant, while steaks, pork chops, chicken and seafood fill stomachs. This is also a great breakfast spot.

Columbus:

NEW ATLAS BAR. 406/322-4033.

Big Timber:

CARRIAGE HOUSE RANCH. 406/932-5863. www.carriagehouseranch.com. Eight miles north of Big Timber, this B&B comprises two beautifully furnished guest rooms, each with private bath, in a renovated 19th century Dutch carriage barn. Guests are free to enjoy the living room, library and sunroom filled with antiques and fine art. A Cowboy Penthouse, complete with living room, bedroom and bath, overlooks a 225 x 100 ft. arena or horse show ring. The horse-loving proprietors, John Haller and Sally DeStefano, offer guests riding lessons (Haller is a certified instructor) including dressage and jumping, as well as instruction in driving their four horse-drawn buggies and three carts. Guests can take the owners’ horses (the two black Freisans are especially gorgeous) along 680 acres of trails. A bountiful breakfast is included in the room rate and dinner can be arranged.

THE GRAND HOTEL. 406/932-4459. www.thegrand-hotel.com. Built in 1890 and listed on the National Register of Historic Places, this 10-room property is situated in the heart of town. In its earliest days, the hotel’s rooms went for 50 cents, according to one local who added, “And they weren’t worth it.” Today, each high-ceilinged guest room is attractively furnished with period pieces. Not all rooms have private baths. The Grand’s 1890 Room (“serving cattlemen, cowboys, sheepherders and travelers since 1890,” its slogan proclaims) presents excellent steaks, poultry, seafood and pasta dishes.

Reed Point:

HOTEL MONTANA. 406/326-2288 or 888/388-7462. www.hotelmontanareedpoint.com. Built at the beginning of the 20th century as a mercantile store selling everything from farm machinery to bloomers, as one of the proprietors put it, the property went through incarnations as a grocery and a boarding house before opening as the present five-room hotel in 1997, following an 18-month renovation. The owners’ vast collection of antiques and old-west saloon items fill guest rooms and public spaces. Vintage clothing hangs in each guest room in case visitors want to “dress up” for dinner. The hotel’s Wild Horse Saloon serves amply portioned tasty meals while upstairs, an old-fashioned sitting room charms guests with a pressed tin ceiling, Victorian sofas and fringed lamps. For the Sheep Run, book a year in advance.

Shops, Galleries, Museums, Recreation

Red Lodge:

CLAY CAFÉ. 406/446-2466. www.redlodge.com/claycafe..

COMMON GROUND WESTERN ART & GIFTS. 406/446-2800. www.comngrndartgallery,com.

DEPOT GALLERY. 406/446-1370. www.depotgallery.org.

FLASH’S PHOTOGRAPHY. 406/446-1940. www.flashs.com.

MERV COLEMAN GALLERY & STUDIO. 406/446-1228. www.colemangallery.biz.

MONTANA CANDY EMPORIUM. 406/446-1119.

ROCKY FORK JUNIPER. 406/446-1832. www.rockyforkjuniper.com.

BEARTOOTH NATURE CENTER. 406/446-1133. www.beartoothnaturecenter.org.

BEARTOOTH SCENIC BYWAY. www.redlodge.com/beartoothhighway.

PEAKS TO PLAINS MUSEUM. 406/446-3667. www.redlodge.com/artsandentertainment.

FLY FISHING AND, LLC. 406/446-9087. www.flyfishingand.com.

RED LODGE MOUNTAIN GOLF CLUB. 406/446-3344. www.redlodge.com/recreation/golf.

RED LODGE MOUNTAIN SKI RESORT. 406/446-2610 or 800/444-8977. www.redlodge.com/recreation/wintersports.

RED LODGE NORDIC CENTER. 406/446-9191. www.redlodge.com/recreation/wintersports.

Boyd:

BOYD STORE. 406/962-3318.

Fromberg:

LITTLE COWBOY BAR & MUSEUM. 406/668-9502.

Joliet:

CHARLES RINGER SCULPTURE STUDIO & GALLERY. 406/962-3705. www.charlesringer.com.

Roscoe:

PIONEER POTTERY. Fifty yards south of Grizzly Bar & Restaurant. No phone.

Fishtail:

FISHTAIL GENERAL STORE. 406/328-4260.

Absarokee:

CHARMED, INC. 406/328-7444.

ABSAROKA RIVER ADVENTURES. 406/328-7440 or 800/334-7238. www.absarokariver.com.

Columbus:

MUSEUM OF THE BEARTOOTHS. 406/322-4588.

Big Timber:

CINNABAR CREEK. 406/932-5372.

DAVE HODGES FINE ART. 406/932-6181. www.hodgesfineart.com.

WILD WINDS GALLERY. 406/932-5612.

CRAZY MOUNTAIN MUSEUM. 406/932-5126. www.visitmt.com/thingstodo/yellowstonecountry.

Events

Red Lodge:

BEARTOOTH MOTORCYCLE RALLY. www.beartoothrally.com.

CHRISTMAS STROLL. www.redlodge.com/stroll.

FESTIVAL OF NATIONS. www.festivalofnations.us.

HOME OF CHAMPIONS RODEO. www.redlodge.com/rodeo.

MONTANA STATE OLD-TIME FIDDLERS CONTEST. www.webmt.net/fiddlers.

MOUNTAIN MAN RENDEZVOUS. www.redlodge.com/rendezvous. Be sure to also click on link at page bottom.

NATIONAL FINALS SKI-JORING. www.redlodge.com/ski-joring.

TASTE OF RED LODGE. www.redlodge.com/taste.

Big Timber:

BULL-A-RAMA. www.visitmt.com/events/bigtimber.

SWEET GRASS FEST. 406/932-5131.

WINTER CAMP COWBOY POETRY & MUSIC. 406/932-4227.

Reed Point:

GREAT MONTANA SHEEP DRIVE. www.visitmt.com/events/reedpoint

Images by Joyce Dalton