Jaen - Huge Lizards, cathedral and knights in armour

by Rachel L Webb

Enter Andalucia through the Despeñaperros Pass and you're following in the footsteps of Romans, Phoenicians, Visgoths and Moors.

Despeñaperros, the rocky mountain range creating a natural barrier from the north is the twisting entrance into Jaén Province. Vultures and Spanish Imperial Eagles soar above the gloomy crags, whose name is derived from the days when Christians were flung to their deaths - despeñar, to toss or throw and perros- dogs.

The violence of centuries doesn't detract from the rugged beauty that today welcomes you into Jaén Province. This is the land of silvery-leaved marching olive trees, and host to four natural parks, one of them, the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas, is the largest protected natural area in Spain covering almost
one-fifth of Jaén province.

Heading towards the provincial capital of the same name, the landscape becomes flatter and smothered with olive trees, ruined landmarks of the mining trade, and fields of young bulls. Toros bravos - young fighting bulls surround the main road around Navas de Tolosa, the breeding area for the next generation of bulls to grace the rings.

As Jaen city approaches, the lookout castle of Santa Catalina comes into view beckoning you towards it. The 13th Arab Fortress, now a castle remains and a 4* Parador watch your approach to the city under its hill.

This is the site where the Christian King reclaimed Jaén for their own then set forth to retake of Granada, the last stronghold of the Moors in 1492.

Climb up the long winding hill, past the pine covered, squirrel-run escarpment and flying flags welcome you into the cobbled courtyard of the Parador and castle. Enjoy some refreshment in the Parador bar under the mighty vaulte ceiling of the drawing room take in the castle with its, interpretation center and knights in not so shining armour.
Leaving the castle behind, stroll along the elongated hill to the monumental white cross over-looking the city below, city and countryside, autovia and thread-like streets, spread out in the vista before you. The monstrous cathedral attracts the eye, while behind, the Sierra Morenas mountain range tower menacingly.

Beyond the city limits, on a clear day, the fourteen snow-covered peaks of the Sierra Nevadas in Granada can be seen rising majestically over their terrain. Jaén´s old city, curling around the base of Santa Catalina has a wealth of history waiting to be discovered. The cathedral due to its size and ease of locating is a good starting point. Take a breath on one of the weathered stone bench in its plaza for a moment or two while you contemplate the enormity of its construction. And if so inclined, head inside to enjoy the cool, yet incredibly ostentatious ornate interior.

After the riches and embellishments of the interior, gold, art and religious figures plummet back to earth and follow signs from the plaza to the tourist office, oficina de turismo, down a narrow tiled and flower filled street and pick up a map for directions to the Arab bath,

Baños Arabes

The Arab Baths were filled in, almost forgotten and in the 16th century the Renaissance Palacio de Villardompardo was erected over them. Supposedly built in 11th or 12th Century, there remains no documentary evidence of the origins of the baths. A small part was discovered in 1913 and an incredible restoration work began to excavate and restore the baths in 1936 which, due to the civil war were abandoned until 1970.

In 1984 the completed restoration project won Gold Medal of Europa Nostra for its restoration, and today they stand proud as Spain's biggest Islamic bathhouse. Above them the Palace houses the Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares, a brilliant little museum devoted to traditional life in the Jaén province.

To witness some tradition at first-hand follow the route mapped out in the tourist board guidebook. It provides an excellent stroll around the warren-like old-city streets on a discovery trail of 34 churches and monuments. If you only complete part of the itinerary don't miss the Iglesia de la Magdelena's lovely Islamic courtyard with Roman tombs.

The monastery of Santa Teresa, founded in 1615, is said to be the first Carmelite Monastery to be dedicated to Saint Teresa still produces wonderful home made cakes. They can be bought at the door via a turno, a circular turntable to preserve the nuns' privacy.

You may on your travels wonder at the significance of the lizard, seen in carvings and statues around the old town. The legend Lagarto de Jaen was first recorded in1628, and is alive and well today.

The story says that an enormous lizard appeared to a group of locals near the fountain of Magdalena, the city's main water source. The people were too frightened to return to the fountain and so a solution had to be found.

Different solutions to the problem were thought up, goat skins; dynamite and reflective armour come into the jumbled versions of how the lizard was killed. However it met its end, documents reveal that a large reptile skin was on display in the Iglesia de San Ildefonso for a long time. Some say that rather than being a lizard as the carvings suggest, it's thought have been an alligator.

Suggestions that a local man, who having been on a voyage to the New world and brought back a baby alligator seems the most believable end to the tale!

If the pocket allows, the Parador is a wonderful atmospheric place to stay, but staying there or not a wander to the cross to watch the city lights below begin to twinkle as the daylight fades is the perfect end to an illuminating day.

Oficina de Turismo
C/Maestra 13

Parador de Santa Catalina
23001 Jaen
Tel 953 230 000
Fax 953230 930
jaen@parador.es

Hotel Infanta Cristina - 4*
Av. de Madrid
www.hotelinfantacristina.com

Train Information
www.renfe.es

Bus Information
www.alsina-graells.com

English Tour Guides
Tour Jaen +34 953 564211

www.andalucia-for-holidays.com

All photo's by Rachel L Webb