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The New Orleans Grill
Redefining the “art” of fine dining
By Angela Fox
When
the Windsor Court Hotel in New Orleans decided to renovate its renowned
restaurant The Grill Room, it also re-christened it The New Orleans Grill -- and
commissioned three museum quality murals from well-known local artist Auseklis
Ozols to adorn the walls. Each 7' X 17' mural, rendered in a defined, classic
style that blends perfectly with the European and English paintings and
antiques found elsewhere in the hotel, depicts a different New Orleans
scene that is cleverly populated with such famous figures as Tennessee Williams
and Harry Connick, Jr. Enjoying Chef Jonathan Wright's picture-perfect culinary
creations while viewing Ozols' visual masterpieces gives new meaning to the
phrase "the art of fine dining."
My
husband and I had enjoyed dinner at the New Orleans Grill on several occasions
in the past -- yet we had never had lunch there. On the first full day of
summer recently we found out what we’d been missing all these years. We also
found out why Chef Jonathan Wright has been called “Britain’s culinary gift to
the city” by Zagat survey and “one of three ‘Chefs to keep an eye on’ in the
U.S.” by Esquire magazine. We began our lunch with Wright’s delightful twist on
gazpacho – presented in a tiny crystal glass with a minute straw and a skewer of
pickled vegetables. Next we enjoyed the Windsor Court Salad, the restaurant’s
justifiably renowned salad that can easily serve as a light meal --- fresh
greens topped with ribbons of finely chopped egg, bleu cheese, bacon, tomato and
avocado.
Our
main courses were just as impressive --- bouillabaisse brimming with seafood for
my husband and a superbly fresh piece of Gulf fish, topped with fresh asparagus
and roasted red peppers, for me. The lunch menu also includes a variety of what
might be called “upscale sandwiches,” including a Lobster Club with smoked
salmon, plus the Grill’s famous Turtle Soup. Breakfast at the Grill is also an
event but the champagne brunch every Sunday is even more spectacular, with
tempting items like traditional Eggs Sardou and new inventions from Chef Wright
like Speckled Trout and Eggs “Black-eyed.” Live jazz and fine champagne
accompany the festive three-course meal.
Sweets
are a specialty of the New Orleans Grill and we finished our summer lunch with a
flourish of delectable desserts. My luscious lemon tart featured a burnt sugar
top and a scoop of ice cream topped with a candied slice of lemon. My husband’s
chocolate cake was crowned with rich vanilla ice cream and accompanied by a
miniature malted milk shake. Complementing the food is the Windsor Court’s wine
selection. The hotel’s sommelier maintains a world-class wine cellar that is
actually built on springs to protect the 10,000 bottles of exceptional vintages
from hurricanes or earthquakes. A significant collection of Bordeaux Grand Crus
crowns an award-winning list of some of the world’s finest wines.
The
restaurant is wonderfully romantic by night but we appreciated its lovely new
décor even more in the daylight. Situated on the fourth floor of the hotel,
overlooking the tree-filled courtyard, the view gives the impression of dining
in a very elegant tree house. Fine furnishings and a warm gold, coral and
cinnamon color scheme highlight the dining room’s décor. Fresh flowers are a
hallmark of the hotel (the lobby’s centerpiece is an arrangement of more than
twelve dozen roses) and at our lunch, every table was adorned with sunny yellow
daisies tucked into miniature ceramic urns or deep pink roses and rose hips in
crystal bowls. Tables are dressed with Fili d’Oro linens from Italy, Limoges
porcelain china and Schott Zweisel and Spiegelau stemware.
The
fabulous murals are the focal points of the room and complement the Windsor
Court’s magnificent collection of European art and antiques displayed elsewhere
in the hotel. The three murals depict an antebellum plantation scene, the famed
Jackson Square and the bustling French Market. Some 42 local personalities,
both past and present, pop up in the murals adding elements of history and
humor. Look for French Impressionist painter Edgar Degas, who spent time in New
Orleans in the 1800s, and the incomparable Louis “Satchmo” Armstrong, along with
notable political, social and business personalities who have shaped the city
over the years. Searching out Pope John Paul II, Joan of Arc and other
unexpected celebrities makes for a fun guessing game while dining at the Grill.
Valet parking is complimentary with dinner at the New
Orleans Grill. The restaurant is open every day of the week. Reservations are
suggested and may be obtained on line at
www.windsorcourthotel.com or by
calling 504-522-1992.
Photos by Virgil Fox
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