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Not So Naughty Nassau

Stepping into the Culture

By Sandra Scott

Don’t me wrong, I love the hedonistic life provided by all-inclusive resorts but the isolated, cocoon-like existence does not provide any insight into the culture of the Bahamas.  I like balance so after a few days wallowing in the lap of leisure I stepped out to discover the “real” Nassau.

Nassau is geared for the tourist trade but it is still possible to feel part of the community.  It can be done in three easy steps.

Step One: Learn the history

The Bahamas are an independent nation and a member of the British Commonwealth of Nations, retaining many of the traditions brought over by the British. Nassau, on New Providence Island, the capital of the 700+ island nation, is rich in beauty, history, and personality. 

Since its founding in 1656, the island has been prized for its sheltered harbor.  Forts were built as protection from maundering pirates. Fort Charlotte, high on a hill a short walk from the center of town, is the largest. Guides offer tours of the 1788 fort. Its ramparts offer one the best views of Nassau.  Fort Fincastle, shaped like a paddle wheel steamer, is located next to the water Tower where one can take an elevator to the top for another spectacular view.

The Queen’s Staircase, near Fort Fincastle, is one Nassau’s most visited attractions. Walk down the 65 steps carved out of solid limestone by slaves in the late 18th century. This 102-foot staircase was named in honor of the 65 years of Queen Victoria’s reign.

Parliament Square in downtown Nassau is the traditional center of the Bahamian government. The picturesque pastel buildings erected in the early 1800s by Loyalists, including the Houses of Parliament, surround a marble statue of Queen Victoria. Each season, the Opening Ceremonies of the Supreme Court fill the square with pomp and pageantry.

The Changing of the Guards is a display of pomp and pageantry at Government House, residence of the Governor General, and the queen’s representative. The Royal Bahamas Police Force Band performs 10 a.m. on alternate Saturdays.

Step Two: Learn the Culture

Most Bahamians are descendents of slaves brought from Africa to work the plantations. The Emancipation Act of August 1,1834 freed the slaves. Conveniently located on Bay Street, the Pompey Museum of Slavery and Emancipation illustrates the history of slavery, abolition and emancipation.  The museum located in the Vendue House, whose name is derived from the French word meaning sold. During the 1700s it served as the Bahamian locale for the slave auctions.

Food is an integral part of every culture.  Skip the fast food places and dine on great Bahamian food at restaurants displaying the logo designating it as a place for “A Real Taste of the Bahamas.” Try some traditional dishes such as conch salad and chowder.  Most meals are served with peas 'n' rice and Johnny Cake. Unlike the American version the Bahamian Johnny Cake is made with flour. End the meal with scrumptious Guava Duff.

Bahamians pull out all the stops for Junkanoo, celebrated with parades on December 26 and January 1. Learn about this unique and exuberate celebration at Educulture’s Junkanoo Museum. The Junkanoo Expo located at the Prince George Dock in the heart of Nassau, gives the everyday tourist the chance to view some of the “over-the-top” one-person floats.  At “Junkanoo in June” people can feel the “rush” as the bells, brass and drums lead the colorful Junkanoo dancers in an explosion of color and sound.  Bahamian crafts and food are also spotlighted.

Step Three: Meet the People

For 30 years the Bahamian Tourism Board has promoted a “Meet the People Program” that matches up visitors with a like-minded Bahamian.  As a former teacher I choose to visit a school and spent the morning at the Carmichael Primary School with Miss William’s third grade. It was a two-way learning experience.

As part of the program, on the last Friday of each month, visitors are invited to an afternoon of tea, entertainment and company at the Government House Ballroom.

To really feel part of the community stay at the family-owned and operated Dillet’s Guest House, an authentic Bahamian home offering today's comforts and yesterday's charm. The 60-year-old authentic Bahamian home is nestled on a large treed property with a swimming pool and in one of the “Small Treasures of the Bahamas.”

When you leave Nassau, the images of turquoise seas and long white beaches will quickly fade, but the personal contacts and relationships made while learning about the “real” Nassau will be your “treasures of the Nassau.”

If you go:
Bahamian Tourist board: www.bahamas.com
Dillet’s Guest House: www.islandeaze.com
Educulture Junkanoo Museum: www.junkanoocentral.com

Images by Sandra Scott

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