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Mystic, Connecticut

History, Nature and the Smell of the Sea

By Sandra Scott

Mystic Seaport on the list of “1000 Places to See Before You Die” was also on our list of “to-dos.” Humphrey Bogey and Lauren Bacall picked the Gate House at the Inn at Mystic for their Honeymoon so we knew we couldn’t do any better plus the Inn has an expansive view of Long Island Sound. The Gate House is just one of the Inn’s accommodation options that includes a colonial revival mansion high on the hill surrounded by gardens.

The views of the Long Island Sounds from the Inn are unsurpassed and the colonial charm of our room with the four poster bed and fireplace made it hard to leave but there is much to do in picturesque Mystic, Connecticut. 

Our first stop was Mystic Seaport, a 17-acre museum town showcasing workshops and buildings of 19th-century Mystic, with the focus on the whaling era. A personal favorite was the display of figureheads. Clearly one of the most romantic and mysterious of all artifacts from the age of sail, these figureheads demonstrate the extraordinary skill of their craftsmen. In ancient times, figureheads frequently depicted supernatural beasts and deities adopted from popular mythology. This tradition persisted into the nineteenth century, when patriotic figures and national heroes were also introduced.

There are a variety of seasonal activities including one of Connecticut's most popular Yuletide activities, the theatrical Lantern Light Tours of Christmas Past with horse-drawn carriage rides, visits to old St. Nick and rowdy revels in the 19th-century style tavern.

But before the whalers and trades people arrived in Mystic there were the Native Americans.  The Mashantucket Pequot Museum & Research Center celebrates 20,000 years of American history. The walk through a 16th-century Indian village with life-size figures is so perfectly detailed that for a time we were part of their daily life. Dioramas show scenes portraying every phase of life from the hunt to preparation of the freshly killed deer to preparing the meal.

Not to be missed is the dramatic 30-minute film, “The Witness,” that vividly depicts the Pequot War of the mid-1600s, the first serious conflict between colonizers and the indigenous populations in New England. A top-notch museum.

Nature was the everyday ingredient in the life of the local Native Americans, for an up close and personal experience with nature we went for a walk at the Denison Pequotsepos Nature Center.  The Center features exhibits highlighting the habitats and wildlife of southeastern Connecticut, as well as eight miles of trails that wind through a beautiful 300-acre wooded preserve. And, it is only a short hike through the woods from the Inn at Mystic.

Also accessible by trails from the Nature Center is the Mystic Aquarium. It is the sea that has had the most influence on Mystic. From the ghostly beluga whales to the eerie images of the Titanic, the Aquarium is the place to marvel at all the wonders of water creatures and the mysteries of the deep. While the beluga whales were our favorite we were intrigued by the creepy tarantulas, poisonous frogs, slithering snakes, fascinating piranha and soaring bats that live under the canopy of the Amazon.

We planned each day so that we returned to the Inn in time for tea in the piano lounge with hors d’oeuvres followed by some time relaxing by our fireplace before dining in the award-winning restaurant, Flood Tide.

The Flood Tide features an exhibition kitchen with a wood-fired oven, grill and rotisserie. It is a culinary experience not soon forgotten. The hardest decision of the day is deciding what award-wining meal to choose. The emphasis is on all natural and organic ingredients. 

The first night we dined on Wolfe's Neck Farm Naturally Raised Filet Mignon with Cheesy Stacked Potatoes, Broccoli and Sherried Demi Cream prepared on the wood fired grill.  The next night we had the Brick Oven Baked Roasted Halibut "Gratinee" Mussels, Prosciutto and Artichoke Over Lobster Home Fries with a Creamy Tomato Scallion Butter.

Over dinner we plotted the last day’s activity – a drive through historic Stonington. We vowed to return during the summer to relax on the balcony savoring the view of Long Island Sound and to take out one of the Inn’s canoes. Mystic is now on our list of “1000 Places to Visit Again!”

If you go

The Inn at Mystic: www.innatmystic.com, (800) 237-2415

Mystic Aquarium: www.mysticaquarium.org, (860) 572-5955

Mystic Seaport: www.mysticseaport.org, (888) 9SEAPORT

Mashantucket Pequot Museum: www.mashantucket.com, (860) 396-6817

Denison Pequotsepos Nature Center: www.dpnc.org, (860) 536-1216

Historic Stonington: www.stoningtonhistory.org.

by Sandra Scott, John Scott, and Inn at Mystic.

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