Locking through FranceCruising the MidiBy Sandra Scott
April in Paris is more than a song, it is a time of beauty. The flowers are out and so are the people enjoying the warm sun in parks and along the river. Upon arrival in Paris, spend a day or two walking along the Seine with a stop at Sainte-Chapelle. The Gothic church, just a short walk from Notre Dame, is noted for exquisite stained glass windows, which were used during medieval times to teach Bible stories. Finished in 1248, two-thirds of the 15 stained glass panels are original. The sunlight shining though the glass gives a new perspective to the name "The City of Light." Take the TGV, the "bullet train," for the five-hour trip to Toulouse in the south of France. Spring in Toulouse means the flowers are in full bloom. In the evening, sidewalk cafes fill with leisurely diners. Take time to wander around the city, tour France's aerospace center and the Airbus factory. The week sailing the Midi Canal begins in Castlenaudry, a one-hour trip from Toulouse by train. The choice of boats is vast but for two or four people, the best choice to traverse the 94 miles of the 155-mile Canal du Midi is a 29-foot cabin cruiser. The canal was competed in 1681, connecting the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea. The Canal du Midi runs from the Mediterranean to Toulouse; the Canal du Garonne connects Toulouse to the Atlantic.
The first day, the snow-covered Pyrenees are visible in the distance. By the end of the day you will feel like an old hand operating the boat. There is really nothing to it and you can’t get lost! There are plenty of locks but it doesn’t take long to master the process. It is easily accomplished by two people, one to drive into the unique oval locks and one to handle the mooring lines. Most of the locks are automated, but a few are hand-operated, in which case it is proper to help the lockkeeper by turning the handle that opens one side of the gate. Judging from the number of boats docked in the several marinas along the way, the canal must be very crowded during the summer. Plus boat rental prices double. During spring, the trees that line the canal are partially leafed, the flowers are in bloom and the grapevines are crowned with new growth.
FYI: For more information on travel within France visit www.us.franceguide.com or call (410) 286-8310. Houseboating rentals can be found at www.crown-blueline.com or by calling (888) 355-9491. For rail information, check www.raileurope.com or call (800) 438-7245. Images by Sandra Scott |
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One of the least inexpensive, and most romantic ways, to tour France is on a houseboat - during off-season. It becomes even more affordable with another couple or with children. However, company does take some of the romance out of it! Make it a April trip.
The first order of business is getting checked out in boat operations. Then it is necessary to stock up on groceries. The boat comes with everything except food. Be sure to include the locally prepared cassoulet, a regional specialty made of white beans cooked with two kinds of sausage and duck and baked in a traditional clay pot. It makes a delicious canal dinner, however the choices are many as there are many restaurants in the small towns bordering the canal, plus plenty of vineyards offering libation to accompany dinner.
The boat comes with bikes for quick jaunts into picturesque villages, centered around a medieval church or chateau, to buy fresh baguettes. Or, just peddling along the towpath. The Midi Canal area produces more wine than any other in France, vineyards offer free wine-tasting in hopes of making a sale. The Canal meanders through the countryside with a beautiful view at every turn. The towpath is well used by bikers, joggers and people walking their dogs. 
Our major tourist stop was in Carcassonne, a charming place with one of Europe's largest fortified cities surrounded by a double wall comprising 36 towers. It looks like a scene from "Cinderella." Visit the museums and St. Nazarine Church, which has stained glass windows of note. There are subtle changes to the scenery as the elevation approaches sea level. The biggest drop occurs near the end of the week at Fonserannes Staircase, a set of seven locks. At the end of a most relaxing and glorious week the boat will be wistfully returned to Cassaferies but soon the talk turns to making plans for the next houseboating adventure.
There is an extra charge for a one-way trip but it is worth it. Crown Blue Line provides boaters with a detailed booklet describing the trip and what to see. They will even shop for you if you contact them ahead of time. Boaters can tie up just about anywhere along the canal.