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The British Jewels In The CrownExcess on occasion is exhilaratingBy Marguerite Jordan
You will find this magnificent collection -- some of the world’s most perfect, most precious, stones -- within the Tower of London, itself a very singular tourist attraction.
DIAMONDS ARE A GIRL’S BEST FRIEND
If you didn’t get enough to time to ogle your favorite, let’s say, the petite diamond crown preferred by Queen Victoria, then you may pass through the line a second time. This charming beauty, by the way, was created from a large fringe necklace in 1870, and was worn on top of the Queen’s widow’s cap. Queen Victoria liked this lightweight (5.11 ounces) diadem of diamonds, more than the heavier crowns, such as the Imperial Crown of India, for instance, which weighs a hefty 34.5 ounces. Last worn by George V, it is mighty impressive, set with sapphires, rubies, emeralds and more than 6000 diamonds. His majesty wrote in his diary that wearing it for 3 ½ hours caused him great discomfort. “Uneasy lies the head that wears the crown,” as Shakespeare said.
When I asked the chief warder what was the value of one of the crowns, he looked at me askance. "Why they are worth everything, as a symbol of 800 years of the English Monarchy." he replied. "And yet, there is no way we can put a monetary value on them; they are not even insured. Who would underwrite the loss?" Who, indeed? As Frederick the Great of Prussia reportedly said “A crown is merely a hat that lets the rain in.” A TOWERING FEELING
The original tower, called the White Tower, was built by the invader from Normandy, William the Conqueror, a short while after his arrival on English shores in 1066. It’s all cleaned up now, but it is well known for the dire and messy deeds performed in and around the building. For thirteen years, Sir Walter Raleigh was kept prisoner in the Bloody Tower, while on the scaffold, Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard, wives of Henry VIII, were beheaded. In the words of the poet Thomas Gray, “With many a foul and midnight murder (the towers) fed.” The Tower and the Bridge and the buildings which make up the complex -- at various times, a fortress, a palace, a prison, a mint, an arsenal and now a museum -- are situated on the Thames River. Located within the mile-square "City of London", from here you get a view of this sprawling city of seven million people.
It is evident as you walk around the compound, visiting the many exhibits, much thought has gone into the way the visitor learns her history. According to Mark Wallis, curator of the collection, he is careful to keep the stories fresh and bright and true. He visits American institutions such as colonial Williamsburg where he meets with other historians and curators also interested in capturing young minds and turning them on to history. “We have such a big story to tell, yet we do not wish to overwhelm the visitor,” Wallis said. The Tower Gift Shop contains some wonderful gift items as well as books and tapes for further study at home. My visit inspired me to acquire more (or, again, shall we say) the long and interesting story of the English. LEARNING ABOUT REAL ROYALTY…
What I hoped to see now was a little more of the country up close and personal. Queen Elizabeth II, in celebration of her Golden Jubilee, was making the rounds all over town this spring, and it seemed fitting to visit some of the well-preserved buildings and gardens that have played such an important role in the history of the monarchy. So, in addition to the Tower, I spent time at Kensington Palace and Hampton Court Palace. The latter is situated on the Thames, about twelve miles from the center of the city. In 1515 Cardinal Wolsey built the first portion of this immense structure, which was then immediately taken over by Henry (“What Henry wants, Henry gets”) the Eighth. Lovely geometric gardens surround the red-brick structure, handsome and involved.
In addition to the magnificent gardens and Orangeries at each palace, there is the architecture, of course; then, there are formal rooms, hidden doors, “invisible” rooms, great curving staircases; elegant collections of paintings, furniture, sculpture; kitchens and ‘belowstairs’ rooms, and, best of all, fascinating stories that accompany each. Luckily I was nearby, staying just outside the Hampton Palace Park at the Liongate Hotel, a “modern” hotel, originally built in 1721. The comfortable rooms and public spaces are furnished in a high-color scheme of red and blue, a kind of contemporary rustic. A three-star hotel that feels more like a four-star, the convenience and service afforded by Sukhdip Gill and his young staff made this a perfect place to stay. There are 49 rooms in two buildings that overlook Bushy Park and the Palace, as well as a tavern across the street called the King’s Arms. It used to be a brothel for George II’s troops, but it is now a convenient spot for a plowman’s lunch. …WHILE FOOLING AROUND
Long before television and Johnny Carson, rich people loved to be amused by their courtiers, their performers and others who would talk, recite poetry, sing, juggle, stilt-walk and of course tell jokes. Hampton Court provides a look at the humor that tickled the king’s funnybone in the person of the Fool. Every day he performs before a crowd of visitors in one of the courtyards. Since I could not stop laughing at Will Somer’s performance, he decided to include me in his act. The very sight of this incredibly funny man, tall and bony, wearing scruffy size fifteen Mary-Jane-style shoes was what got me started, but when he shouted “Mother! Can’t you see I have some serious work to do here?” at me, as he tied me up for the third time, while attempting to create a giant cat’s cradle, I couldn’t stop laughing. He used many of us audience members, much to our companions’ delight. When I come back here the next time, I am thinking of renting myself out as a fool’s assistant. KENSINGTON FAMOUS FOR MORE THAN DIANA
"The rain that falls mainly on the plain." a line from one of the most famous musicals, “My Fair lady”, rings a bell when you view what it does for the English gardens. There are more than 3000 gardens that you can visit in all over the country. The most spectacular gardens in the city are found those found here at Kensington Palace and Hampton Court Palace. After enjoying mazes, parterres, thousands of box trees and yews, and inventive floral displays, such as the Floral Crowns, be sure to give yourself time for a lovely afternoon tea. At the Orangerie at Kensington, wonderful tea sandwiches and petits fours are offered in a conservatory setting, overlooking the gardens. Try the Veuve Delaroy Champagne with the cream cheese and cucumber sandwich and the Balmoral shortbread biscuits. SHOP UNTIL YOU DROP…THEN GO TO THE BAR
At the end of a long day of sightseeing and shopping, I repaired to the hotel’s first-floor Manadarin Bar. It was as if Adam Tihany, the famous restaurant architect and designer, had chosen his motif from the display of the royal crown jewels. As you enter the bar, your eye is captured by the glowing cut-glass bottles, filled with liquids the colors of rubies, emeralds, sapphires, that form the backdrop of the room. The effect is electric. Afterwards, the hotel’s two restaurants beckon. The Park and Foliage feature top gourmet specialties, including Asian fusion and an amazing wine list. Designer Tihany, known for innovation throughout the world, specializes in restaurants and bars, and is perhaps best known for his signature designs, the glass and the bottle that hold Bombay Gin. That’s the one dripping with blue gems. At night, the brilliant bar is jumping with all the Sloane Rangers from the neighborhood. Britain’s yuppies enjoy the scene as well as the gin. You will too. PLANNING YOUR VISITCall American Airlines 1-800 433.7300 for schedules and British travel specials. For more information on activities and events: Historic Royal Palaces (HRP) is a registered charity, which is responsible for the care and conservation of: The Tower of London, Hampton Court Palace, The State Apartments and Royal Ceremonial Dress Collection at Kensington Palace, The Banqueting House at Whitehall and Kew Palace with Queen Charlotte’s Cottage. A special exhibit, "The Castle and the Crown" will take place from May 30 to September 29, 2002. Tickets to the Tower of London are approximately $16.00 for adults, $11.00 for children and $48.50 for families, up to 2 adults and 3 children. Children under the age of 5 are free. For more information on these London landmarks and other special events, access Historic Royal Palaces’ web site at: www.hrp.org.uk To purchase retail items related to Historic Royal Palaces online, access www.museumshop.com For additional information about events of the Jubilee Year, go online at www.goldenjubilee.gov.uk No visit to London is complete without seeing aplay. “My Fair Lady”, the quintessential English musical continues to enthrall nightly at the Theatre Royal in Drury Lane, Covent Garden.. Log onto www.myfairladythemusical.com for dates and details. Handy hotels make all the difference. These three are all well-situated. Lions Gate Hotel, Hampton Court Road, Surrey. E-mail lionres@dhillonhotels.co.uk www.dhillonhotels.co.uk Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 66 Knightsbridge, www.mandarinoriental.com Radisson Edwardian Hotel, at Heathrow. Located at 140 Bath Road, Middlesex, it is easily accessible from the city by tube and by the bus, the “Hotel Hoppa”. www.RadissonEdwardian.com Before or after the performance, in the Covent Garden neighborhood there are of course many restaurants. Two that I liked were: Brown’s Restaurant & Bar, 82 –84 St. Martin’s Lane. Tel. 020 7497 5050 General Manager Doug Tetley oversees this busy brasserie, offering delicious specialties like Steak, Mushroom and Guiness Pie, and (my favorite) Sticky Toffee Pudding with butterscotch sauce. Maggiore’s Bistro – Restaurant, 33 King Street. 020 7379 9696 This was a lovely eclectic oasis of calm. Their gazpacho Anduluz was flavorful, and the salmon with new peas was sweet and delicate. Service was attentive and the the wine list extensive. Text Ó Marguerite
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TM
I’m
not sure who was the first person to say, "Excess on occasion is
exhilarating, it keeps moderation from becoming a habit", but if you are the
type of traveler who craves "exhilarating excess", look no further than the
Exhibit of the Crown Jewels of the British Empire. 
Amassed
over the centuries by the crowned heads of the British Empire, it is a
display of dazzling wealth that has very few rivals. Where else in the world
would you find such exquisite jeweled crowns and tiaras? Not to mention
rings and chalices, staffs and swords and orbs and spurs – a mass of
diamonds, rubies, pearls, sapphires and emeralds-- in all about 3000 of
these adorable gems. Even if you personally eschew jewelry, you cannot help
but be impressed with the symbolical weight of the royal adornments. The
display is one of the finest examples of untold wealth that you are ever
likely to get within sight of.
And
you do get close to the jewels. Simple ingenuity allows each visitor to be
within reach of the crowns and other precious objects. Most of the items are
displayed under glass, on a central stand in the middle of a long narrow
room. A mechanical moving floor, like the kind used in long airport halls,
moves the visitors slowly by the displays. 
Long
ago, common belief was that precious stones were for men only. Oh, how the
times have changed. Diamonds, considered by many to be THE most precious
stone, have a place of honor here, of course The world’s largest cut
diamond is now part of the Royal Scepter. Perhaps the most famous single
rock is the Koh-I-Nor diamond, which was set into a crown for the late Queen
Mother, on the occasion of her coronation in 1938.
If
you had but one day to spend in London, the entire complex known as The
Tower of London would be the ideal place to visit. For, in addition to
viewing the Crown Jewels, you would gain an instructive narration on the
long and colorful history of the English Royalty.
When
I think about England, the image that comes to mind is that of the Yeoman
Warder, often referred to as the Beefeater. Symbolically, these gentlemen
guards who are dressed in the signature red and blue garments are one of the
links between the general public and the Royal Family. The Yeoman Warders
both guard the jewels and explain them, as well as describing many of the
other fine points of history, including the succession of kings and queens,
stories about their retinues, and explanations of the presence of the seven
ravens that you often see hopping about. 
Like
many Americans hitting the top London sights, on a prior visit I of course
had seen the Houses of Parliament, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Trafalgar Square,
the Victoria and Albert Museum, Buckingham Palace and the changing of the
Guards. 
Touring
the immense and formidable castles at Kensington and Hampton Court was
rewarding on countless levels, for there are so many facets to these other
‘jewels in the crown’. You could spend several days on a visit to discover
all the attractions. 
As
Mark Wallis, the Tower of London curator, pointed out, every aspect of court
life was defined by rules of conduct and dress. Often it was a costumed
guide, who, through his or her interpretation, gave me a real look at life
behind the scenes at the castle. For example, Jenny, dressed simply in a
long plain dress, provided a unique look at the functional, everyday aspects
of living in the past several hundred years. She was “the necessary woman”,
which is to say, she (her character in the Olden Days) cleaned the
lavatories. 
At
various times of the year, many other performances and exhibits take place:
music festivals, flower shows, military expositions, etc. At Kensington
Palace, perhaps the most lavish display of all is ongoing. A collection of
royal wedding dresses, from 1840 to 1947 is on display to mark the Queen’s
Golden Jubilee, and, like the display of crown jewels, shows the immense
wealth of the aristocracy.
If
shopping in London is one of your goals (whether for diamonds or dishes or
duds), you can find no better location than the Mandarin Oriental Hotel.
Recently restored to the tune of 50 million pounds, the five-star property
is located catty-corner to Harvey Nichols, two steps from Harrods, and
around the corner from Fortnum and Mason. It is a short walk to Hyde Park,
Kensington Palace and the upscale Sloane Street, where you might look for
that unique item for your house at GTC. Or, perhaps you will treat your
tired feet to glamorous shoes at Gina Shoes.