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Island Hopping in the Scottish Sea KingdomThe country’s western isles are a whole other worldBy Janna Graber
“One-track?” I asked, never having heard the term before. Of course, I knew that driving in Scotland was going to be a challenge, always trying to remember to stay on the other side of road and shifting with the left hand. But one-track? “It means there is just one lane,” the woman said. “If someone else meets you coming from the other direction, one of you has to pull off.” The thought of it sounded frightening, but the lady smiled with encouragement. “You’ll be fine, love,” she said in her melodic brogue. “And the western isles are beautiful.” It turns out that she was right on both accounts. The Argyll’s Atlantic Islands, a remote grouping of tiny isles just off the western seaboard, have been referred to as Scotland’s Sea Kingdom. Here, Scottish tradition and culture run deep. The sounds of Gaelic are everywhere, and there are places where time seems to stand still. From the Isle of Iona with its 6th century Christian roots to the wild, uninhabited Isle of Staffa, the region offers a different look at Scotland.
The train ride to the sea is a scenic one, passing through small towns and lush green countryside, and offers a good introduction to rural Scotland. An hour outside of Oban, our train abruptly stopped in the middle of nowhere. A large flock of sheep stood on the tracks. Chewing their cud, they viewed the train with little interest and continued with their grazing. Finally, a brave engineer was sent into the herd. His erratic arm movements eventually sent the beasts on their way. It was just a typical day in the Scottish countryside.
The Caledonian MacBrayne ferry provides public transport to the western isles, so our trusty Punto joined 40 other cars in the ship’s hull while we had a cup of tea up top. Forty minutes later, we landed in the miniscule port town of Craignure. A light rain, as seems to be the norm in this part of the world, was already falling. “Don’t let the rain stop you,” said Maureen, the friendly woman at the Craignure’s tourism office. “We have webbed-feet around here, you know,” she joked, loaning us a couple of umbrellas and plying us with maps. Fully prepared, we headed out onto the island’s road. Within minutes, we met a car going the opposite direction. “Go to the left,” my friend yelled. I swerved into a pull-out, and the other car slipped on by, giving us the friendly index-finger wave of the islands. I practiced waving back with my index finger and we continued on our way.
The scenery is another distraction. At times, the road followed the sea, just feet from the water. Other times, it climbed high into fern-covered mountains and then descended into mist-filled valleys. The scenes were magical and other-worldly. Suddenly all those stories of gnomes and fairies didn’t seem so far-fetched.
There are several good places to stay and eat in Tobermory, in spite of its small population of 900, but we chose the Western Isles Hotel, which sits on a peak above the village. “The hotel is around that bend, that VERY tight bend,” one of the villagers told us when we asked for directions. He wasn’t joking. The road was so narrow and the turn so tight, that I had to back up the Punto in mid-turn. There are 2,700 people who make their home on the Isle of Mull. And from speaking with some of them, it’s obvious that pride in Scottish heritage is alive and well. William Wallace, the Scottish hero that Mel Gibson portrayed in Braveheart, is still a revered man. After hearing more tales of his bravery, I almost expected to see him charging through the misty countryside. The island is a great place to explore on foot. Wildlife is abundant on Mull, and the region has one of the largest concentrations of Golden Eagles. Whale watching is a popular pastime, as are treks to view the wildlife on shore. Hiking is allowed anywhere, except during hunting season. There are several campsites, and Bed & Breakfasts dot the island.
Built in a former barn, the theatre seats only 40 and has a small, intimate stage. Performances are top quality, and the venue is known throughout Scotland. If you’re looking for something to eat before the performance, the pub at the Bellachroy Hotel in Dervaig is a good option. It’s a local hangout, and a great way to get to a feel for the town and its people. The Isle of Iona, population 90, is perhaps the best-known island in the Sea Kingdom. To reach it, we drove 50-miles from Tobermory to the port town of Fionnphort. A ferry from there transports visitors to Iona, where St. Columba brought Christianity to Scotland 14 centuries ago.
Several Scottish visitors, however, told us that their favorite pastime on the island is simply walking the unspoiled white-sand beaches and enjoying the peaceful solitude that the remote location offers. From Iona, it’s just a quick boat trip to the Isle of Staffa. Dave Kirkpatrick of Staffa Trips takes visitors in his large brown boat to this most dramatic, unpopulated island. The spectacular Fingal’s Cave, which is said to have inspired Mendelssohn’s Hebridean Overture, has a cathedral-like ceiling that rises 65 feet above the surface of the sea. A geological wonder in its own right, the island is made of basalt and topped by a cap of hard lava. Puffins are common, and visitors are often seen walking carefully among the nesting birds. The Treshnish Islands, not far from Staffa, are also unpopulated by humans but home to hundreds of seals, dolphins, and many rare nesting birds. Nearly Coll Island is home to the endangered corncrake bird, as well as many rare water plants, while the Isle of Tiree, which is renowned for its sunshine in the early summer, is worth exploring if you have the time. The trouble with the Sea Kingdom is that there is more to see than most vacation times will allow. Perhaps that is why it’s not unusual to see the same visitors coming back year after year. If You Go:For More Information How to Get There Although a newcomer to the American market, BMI British Midland has affordable flights from Chicago and Washington to Scotland (via their hub in Manchester, England). They are a Star Alliance member. Where to Stay in Edinburgh: If you’re flying into Edinburgh, consider overnighting at The Scotsman, a beautifully restored historic hotel. The hotel’s location is excellent, just minutes from The Royal Mile (the town’s most important historic area), and only a two-minute walk to Waverley train station.
Ferry Services to the Islands:
Where to Stay in Mull: Western Isles Hotel
Places to Visit in Mull: Duart Castle Mull Theatre Island Hopping Staffa Trips Staffa Tours (including Treshnish Isles) Whale Watching Trips (excepting those noted below) by Janna Graber Animal courtesy of Argyll, The Isles, Loch Lomond, Stirling and Trossachs Tourist Board. Mull Theatre Photo courtesy of Mull Theatre. Oban photo courtesy Visit Britain © Janna Graber 2002 |
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“You’ll need to
take care on the island roads,” the woman at the Edinburgh tourism office
told me. “They are just one-track. 
The islands are best reached by flying into either
Edinburgh or Glasgow, and then driving or taking a train to the west coast
town of Oban. 
Since there are few places to rent a car in the small
town of Oban, my friend and I ended up at the local Fiat dealer, who offered
to rent us a tiny Fiat Punto. Since a car is a “must” for exploring the
scarcely-populated islands, we were grateful for anything with wheels. After
a little practice driving (with the Fiat dealer watching nervously), we were
on our way to the beautiful Isle of Mull. 
Mull is
only 350 square miles in size, but it is the largest of Argyll’s Atlantic
Isles. The island is mountainous and has lovely beaches and woodlands. The
island’s brochure listed castles, tiny villages, and even a distillery as
“must-see” places to visit. It sounded like a perfect base for an island
hopping adventure. 
The
Fiat dealer had forgotten to tell us one important fact about driving in the
isles – sheep own the roads and fences are strictly optional. Time and
again, we turned the corner to come face to face with the wooly creatures.
“You just learn to expect them,” a local later told us. 
At the north end of Mull, we reached the
postcard-perfect village of Tobermory, with its brightly painted houses
lining the main street across from the bay. The waters were filled with
small fishing vessels, belying the region’s first beginnings in 1785. 
Entertainment is mostly self-made here, although a
traveling movie theater built onto a truck platform does visit Mull every
three months. However, there is an artistic treasure in the tiny Mull
Theatre, which is located in the village of Dervaig. 
Just three miles
long and one mile wide, Iona is home to the ruins of ancient nunnery, a
lovingly-restored medieval abbey and is the burial ground of 48 Scottish
kings. 
The Scotsman
Caledonian MacBrayne
The Tobermory Hotel