The Spectacular WondersAt Helmcken Falls LodgeBy Jane Cassie
Ranked fourth tallest waterfall in the Canada, Helmcken Falls measures three times higher than Niagara, and is the crowning jewel of Wells Gray Provincial Park. From remote sites like this, to soft adventures like canoeing, flightseeing, whitewater rafting, and horseback, the activity choices are abundant during our two-day stay at nearby Helmcken Falls Lodge.
Steeped with as much history as the falls are with height, we feel like we are transported back in time once stepping over the threshold at Helmcken Falls Lodge.
From our private deck we soak in the tranquillity and find it hard to imagine that the bustling city of Kamloops is just a two-hour drive away. Distanced from televisions and phones, we are able to find solace over the next two days and reap the benefits at this relaxing retreat. “I came to help out for the summer eleven years ago,” Karin, our wrangler, later shares while guiding us on a trail ride, “And I’m still here!” We can see why. She obviously loves the lifestyle. And working alongside wranglers, Glen and Jay, we can see that they all have a deep admiration for the appropriately named horses specifically chosen for us. Brent, as always, is in the lead, partly to capture the photo moments, but more so because his riding expertise warrants the coupling with ‘Catch Me.’ Snoozing at the back of the pack, and perfectly suited to my trembling thighs, is stable and steady ‘Dorky.’
The park is home to about forty grizzlies and four hundred black bear, three of which make an appearance during our visit. Even though we aren’t privy to any moose, the significant evidence on our hiking trails indicates their presence. In addition to lots of mule deer, we also see marmots, a skittish coyote and even a beaver!
We paddle through a tunnel of towering reeds that look like they’re right out of Africa and emerge onto still waters where tadpoles and dragonflies hang out. It’s a favourite beaver haunt as well, for at the water’s edge await tasty groves of trembling aspen and bite size birch. Justifiably titled, Shadow Lake provides us with mirror images of the wispy sunset sky until a ripple shatters its glassy surface. A furry head and body emerge from beneath and we are soon reminded of its flapper tail when it slaps against the water. It’s another spectacular wonder that we witness during our two-day stay. And once again we watch, silently, mesmerized by its magnificence. Helmcken Falls Lodge Images by Brent Cassie |
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After funnelling through a narrow gorge, the raging froth plummets one hundred and forty meters (450 feet), from its steep precipice, to a white water pool. The impressive impact creates a muffled roar that echoes in our ears, and from the promontory lookout, we are kissed by its feather-light mist. While forging onward, the Murtle River turbulently snakes along the volcanic canyon floor far below, and we silently watch this spectacular wonder, mesmerized by its magnificence.
“We purposely keep the tour groups small so that our guests can enjoy nature at its best,” informs our gracious host, Joyce Harrington. Since taking ownership in 1990, Joyce, and her knowledgeable staff have helped create special year-round wilderness experiences that people come here in search of. And when the snow flies, in addition to hosting conferences and innovative theme weekends, the lodge’s surrounding terrain naturally lends itself to excellent cross-country skiing, dogsledding and snowshoeing. 
Although a devastating 1926 fire wiped out surrounding homesteads and old growth forests, the McDougall cabin on the property was fortunately spared. Brothers, John and Henry Hogue, used it as a home base when trapping, then twenty-two years later, constructed Helmcken Falls Lodge out of the stands of charred cedar. Because electricity was unavailable until the late 1960’s, the logs were hand-hewn and the two-story structure was built entirely with powerless tools. It was designed with their intent of wooing a couple of wives, and although history reveals that only one brother was successful, the intriguing tale lives on today, and so does the lodge’s rustic charm. 
Although no accommodations are housed in the lodge, its quaint upper floor becomes our favourite haunt three times each day. Devoted entirely for dining, we enjoy panoramic vistas and exceptional cuisine, thanks to Scottish born and trained Chef, Ian Cummings. Succulent salmon doused in a delicate herbal sauce, and traditional rib eye steak, are just a couple of dinner buffet creations that we enjoy. And while some guests head off after breakfast with a full picnic fare, others, like us, feast on lunchtime menu favourites served on the wrap-around deck, while being entertained by the whirr of hummingbird wings.
Twenty-one accommodations and seventeen RV sites drape the property’s lush foreground. From the history-clad McDougall cabin to modern log chalets, each promises a unique experience and a sensational view. 
Manicured fairways of neighbouring Wells Gray Golf Course give way to a blanket of evergreens that cloak the hillsides. Trophy Mountain takes first prize for elevation where, in the distance, its majestic snow dappled peaks revel in glory and award-winning flower-clad meadows host summertime hikers and horses.
As well as a great ride, Karin provides us with a natural history lesson. She knows the origin of every plant, tree, berry and animal scat that crosses our path. And believe me, there are lots!
“We have to be quiet,” Mike instructs, “so they don’t feel we’re too much of a threat.” Mike is a natural in his naturalist role at Helmcken Falls Lodge. With a degree in botany and a respect for wildlife it is obvious that he feels passionate about his chosen field. His previous day’s interpretative talk had focused on the effects that beaver dams have on other wildlife and although it had been fascinating, no words could replace this serene experience.