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Traditionally, Koreans would prepare enough kimch'i (fermented vegetable dishes) in autumn to last them through the winter, when fresh vegetables were scarce. The kimch'i would be stored in huge, brown glazed earthenware onggi jars, buried up to their necks in the ground to prevent freezing.

Although Koreans have been making kimch'i for a thousand years, the introduction of red pepper into the pickling process during the 17th century was a major innovation. Using red pepper in combination with vegetables and fish resulted in a unique method of food preservation.

As a result, kimch'i became and remains a staple of the Korean diet, being served at virtually every meal. Each autumn, the residents of Seoul convert more than 100,000 tons of cabbage, 5,000 tons of red pepper and 2,500 tons of garlic into kimch'i.

Kimch'i has a flavor and an aroma that may be politely termed unique. The taste reflects the spices used in the recipe, which can include horseradish and ginger as well as red pepper and garlic, with the exact quantities often varying by province and season. The lingering aroma can be so potent that Korean Air flight attendants are forbidden from eating it within 24 hours of a flight.

However, kimch'i is nutritious, providing vitamins, minerals and lactic acid. It also is anti-carcinogenic. The fermentation of the different vegetables used, complimented by salted fish and other seasonings, produces a hot and spicy dish that stimulates the appetite.

Today, at least a hundred kinds of kimch'i exist. They include the following:

T'ongbaech'u Kimch'i (Whole Cabbage Kimch'i) - Each cabbage is cut length-wise into two sections, soaked in brine and then drained, seasoned between the leaves, and left to ferment.

Ch'onggak Kimch'i (Whole Radish Kimch'i) - This is made with small salted white radishes, salted anchovies and seasonings, pickled for early winter consumption.

Oisobagi (Stuffed Cucumber Kimch'i) - Cucumbers are stuffed with a mixture of seasonings and then fermented. Well fermented cucumbers are considered a delicacy for their fragrance and crunchiness.

Possam Kimch'i (Wrapped Kimch'i) - Seafood such as octopus, shrimp and oyster is seasoned, wrapped in cabbage leaves and pickled. The bundles are neat and convenient to serve.

To Koreans, kimch'i is much more than a mere side dish. It is a culinary icon of Korean culture, the backbone of every Korean meal, and the pride of any good Korean cook.

So important is kimch'i that no fewer than two museums are dedicated to it:

Myongga Kimch'i Museum, CO-1, Underground Arcade, Korea Trade Center Building, 159-9 Samsong-dong, Kangnam-gu, Seoul South Korea, phone 011-82-2-562-1075. The various methods and utensils used to make kimch'i along with the large clay onggi jars in which it is stored are on display. An adjacent restaurant (phone 011-82-2-567-8821) allows visitors to sample authentic kimch'i.

Yong-in Kimch'i Museum, 302-1 Sangha-ri, Kusong-myon, Yong-in-gun, Kyonggi-do South Korea, phone 011-82-331-282-6609. This museum examines the art of kimch'i making by province. The 750-square-meter grounds include a kimch'i factory.

There also is a market that specializes in kimch'i:

Maruzon, 1453-2 Gayang-dong, Gangseo-gu, Seoul South Korea 157-200, phone 011-82-2-2063-2525. In this 700-square-meter market, visitors can watch kimch'i being made and sample various kinds. The market will arrange delivery of purchases to anywhere in the world on request.

A recent report stated that kimch'i comprises 30 per cent of purchases made by visitors to South Korea. Easily transported kimch'i in a can is available at markets, department stores and other shops.

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