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Rain Forests and Architecture

Sampling Guyana’s Attractions

By Joyce Dalton

It’s a jungle out there! Or in Guyana’s case, a rain forest – a very big rain forest. In fact, 80% of this South American country’s land mass is comprised of dense equatorial forest. Scattered clusters of Amerindians live under the green canopy along with 1,200 animal species including jaguars, caiman (South American crocodiles), giant river otters, monkeys, numerous species of fish (such as arapaima, the world’s largest freshwater fish), and more than 700 species of birds. 

A two-hour flight from the capital, Georgetown, on a nine-seat Britten Norman Islander aircraft ended on a grass strip near Karanambo Ranch for the start of what was to become the ultimate ecotourism day.

Here, Diane McTurk, commonly dubbed “The Otter Woman,” introduced my group to Peter the Great, one of the many orphaned otters she has rehabilitated and released back into the wild. It’s the rare visitor who doesn’t share the ranch with an otter or two. McTurk has started a trust to protect the otters’ habitat, a project that has drawn film crews, including the BBC, from around the world.

Five cabanas house overnight guests who can opt to bird watch, fish for peacock bass, hike along forest trails or swim with the otters in the Rupununi River. Considering the likelihood of microscopic river dwellers less friendly than Peter the Great, medical professionals might not be too enthusiastic about the latter choice.

Our fast-paced itinerary allowed time for none of the above so we soon set off in open boats along the narrow channels of a flood plain. Thick vegetation closed in on both sides as we glided among giant lily pads known as Victoria regia. Other flowering plants could have passed for morning glories to my untutored eye.

Since it would take several hours to reach our next destination by boat, our jungle float was a brief one, only as far as the next air strip. A 12-minute flight carried us to Annai where a sign proclaiming “Guyana’s natural beauty at its best” greeted us. Surrounded by forest, mountains and savanna, we could only agree.

Situated near two Amerindian villages, Rock View Lodge, formerly known as Rock View Ecotourism Resort, offered an introduction to the customs and traditions of the area’s indigenous population. The Indians showed us how to prepare cassava, shoot a bow and arrow, and weave baskets and hammocks. Within minutes, one artisan crafted an armadillo out of balata, a type of latex, and added it to his zoo of miniature forest animal creations. Balata production, incidentally, was once big business in Guyana. Now, it serves only for locally-used cricket balls, temporary fillings for tooth cavities, and tourist figurines. As in other villages we visited, residents favored modern dress. Well-aware, however, of what tourists (and their cameras) like, four women donned traditional garb to sing a song detailing the benefits of ecotourism, while an indigenous man, perched high atop a stone, recited a poem reminiscing about the Rupununi region in earlier days.

Rock View is home to Colin Edwards, an Englishman who first came to Guyana in 1969 as an agricultural volunteer, and his wife. This working farm welcomes overnight guests who are housed in self-contained suites in two buildings. In addition to enjoying hiking, river outings, horseback riding and bullock-cart jaunts, visitors can learn about sustainable management of forest resources at the nearby Iwokrama International Rainforest Field Station.

Edwards proudly showed his guest book, where one signature stood out: that of Great Britain’s Prince Charles, a long-time ecotourism advocate.

Back into the plane, it was on to the next leg of our all-in-one-day journey, this time flying over thickly forested mountains to Kaieteur Falls, billed as the world’s highest, continuous single-drop waterfall.

Churned by the force of a 741-foot plunge (almost five times the height of Niagara), the sediment/water mix could have inspired butterscotch swirl ice cream. This is not for the frail of spirit as getting to the cliff-top viewing points means trekking over wet grass and sizeable rocks. Once there, you’ll find the vista unobstructed by guard rails.

Waterfalls tend to attract rainbows and Kaieteur’s was a beauty. So was its rain forest setting of bromeliads, bird-of-paradise flowers and orchids. We didn’t spot any swifts or brilliantly plumed cock-of-the-rock birds. Both species inhabit the area but apparently were in hiding during our visit. In fact, one of the highest concentrations of endemic species in all of South America is found right here.

Our last flight of the day took off to the northeast from a tiny paved runway, a welcome change from the grass strips of previous flights. In an hour, we were back in Georgetown.

Guyana’s capital is small (population about 228,000), manageable and offers a decent share of interesting sites. Situated on the banks of the Demerara estuary, it boasts the world’s fourth longest floating bridge. A seawall and canals recall the country’s days as a Dutch possession. In 1814, the British assumed control, leaving Guyana as the only South American country with English as the official language.

The British were also responsible for some of Georgetown’s most attractive architecture. Its long, colonnaded Parliament Building was visited by Queen Elizabeth II in 1994 when she addressed lawmakers. Another impressive structure, housing the Law Courts, pays tribute to the country’s British ancestry with a statue of Queen Victoria. Opposite the courts stands St. Andrew’s Kirk, Guyana’s oldest surviving church. A second religious edifice, St. George’s Cathedral, also deserves a visit. At the time of construction, this was the tallest free-standing wooden building in the world. A stroll reveals further fine examples of 18th and 19th century wooden architecture, often featuring Demerara shutters which open upward by an outward push, while a short drive leads to a mosque and a Hindu temple.

A good collection of Guyanese art and sculpture occupies three floors of Castellani House, while a model of an Amerindian village fills an entire room. The model is complete with scenes from daily life, including a “Piai” who is skilled in the use of herbs and casting spells.

Originally made of wood but re-done in cast-iron, Stabroek market stands on both land and water. Merchandise ranges from produce to jewelry and offers just about anything people might or might not need. Our guide did caution us to be alert for pick-pockets here and not to roam about the city alone at night.

Georgetown boasts a number of parks with the expected tropical plants and flowers. Completely unexpected, though, are the 18 manatees inhabiting a large pool at the botanical gardens.

Comfortable lodgings are found in the capital. Le Meridien Pegasus, a circular seven-story tower houses three restaurants, a bar and a gym as well as guest rooms. A pool and tennis courts also are on the premises. In 1991, a three-story wing was added, bringing the total room count to 130.

Other recommended properties include the 15-unit Cara Suites, offering studio and one- and two-bedroom units. Some are equipped with kitchen, dining area and balcony. A sister property, Cara Lodge, dates to the 1840s and is one of the oldest wooden buildings in Georgetown. It served as home to the city’s first Lord Mayor and has played host to King Edward VII, Prince Charles and President Jimmy Carter. Its eatery, The Bottle Restaurant, is considered one of the best in the capital.

Adventure tourists, especially those with a love of nature and traditional cultures, should find this small nation (just under 83,000 square miles) much to their liking. The few I’ve met who have visited Guyana unanimously raved about their experience. Slowly, but most definitely surely, U.S. and European tour operators with a focus on soft adventure or ecotourism, are creating itineraries in the “land of many waters,” as the name, Guyana, translates from an Amerindian word. Can mass tourism be far behind?

For further information….
www.exploreguyana.com
www.wilderness-explorers.com/guyana.htm
www.Karanambu.com
www.rockviewlodge.com
www.lemeridian-pegasus.com
www.carahotels.com

Images by Joyce Dalton

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