Northern New Mexico Transcends TimeExploring the Land of EnchantmentBy Robin O’Grady
It’s easy to see why writers, artists and socialites—like D.H. Lawrence, Georgia O’Keeffe and Mabel Dodge—were seduced by this eerily enchanting setting.
Then there’s the erratic geography. Lush forests, mountains and meadows intermingle with stark rock formations, desert flatlands, and rolling mesa plateaus.
This place was born for a road trip. Traveling along the remote countryside, you can almost envision haunting images of Indians on horseback as they forged the first trails through this primitive terrain.
Glancing at the map, it looks like an easy three-hour trip. “Map time” can be deceiving in mountain territory. Double or even triple your estimated arrival time…after all, who knows what expeditions will lure you in along the way. Ride the ‘Real Thing’ RailroadThe first civilization to emerge after crossing over the Colorado border is Chama, an old railroad town huddled along-side the San Juan Mountains. If you’ve always longed to take an authentic “wild-west” train ride…this is the place. The 120-year-old Cumbres & Toltec Railroad still steams its way through mountains, gorges and valleys from May through October.
The town’s rushing Rio Chama is known for its blue-ribbon trout fishing. In the late afternoon, try casting a few lines or just relax by the river-side. Later, order up a sarsaparilla at one of the local saloons and take-in a nearby chuck wagon feast. You might even hear some cowboy poetry over dinner.
Visit The Hotel & Shops (no fancy title for this place). It’s a renovated structure built during the town’s heyday. You’ll find some interesting railroad memorabilia and gift items here, if you haven’t already indulged on the train’s “movable” gift shop. Loom Around Los OjosHeading south, the next worthwhile stop is Los Ojos. This is the ideal place to stretch your legs…and pocketbook…as you explore the spectacular woven treasures crafted in this historic ranching community.
This 250-year-old settlement is home to the state’s most ambitious preservation of weaving and wool-raising traditions.
Before you head out of town, venture down the rest of main street. Enjoy lunch at Cafe Los Ojos, amble through the Yellow Earth Gallery, Pastures General Store, and the 100-year-old San Jose Church.
Take the Scenic RouteOnce you get back to the main road, it’s just a few miles south to State Road 64, the eastbound cut-over to Taos. Locals will keep asking if you’re taking Highway 84, just nod and opt for the scenic route instead. This is the ideal time to crank up the car stereo and belt out some tunes. After all, who’s going to hear you? Not a soul. (Several radio stations come in remarkably clear for this in-the-middle-of-nowhere location.)
As you edge your way up the Carson National Forest mountain-side, there’s a great unmarked scenic pullover. Definitely stop. It’s the perfect place for a photo op—or to just sit and reflect on some of the little things that have been on your mind…like the meaning of life.
Land at the ‘Earthship’A few miles outside of Taos, the road plateaus into sagebrush flatlands. In the distance, strange eruptions emerge from the earth.
If you have the slightest interest in solar power, renewable energy, or recyclable building materials, stop in and check it out. The space-age looking Visitors’ Center offers comprehensive information on these energy-efficient homesteads. Take a tour of the grounds or rent a room for the night…if you can forgo a TV, phone, and goodness knows what else. Gaze over the Rio Gorge
There’s a road-side picnic area right before this imposing natural wonder where you can view it’s expanse from a distance, unpack a snack, or freshen up in the rest rooms.
Overland, Overspend, Overeat!Just when you thought it was safe, the long-anticipated arrival at your cozy hotel room hits another snag. On the outskirts of town, sits the Overland Ranch compound. This is the perfect place to pull over and stabilize before heading into the bustling village of Taos.
The Overland Sheepskin and Leather Shop alone is worth the stop. You’d be hard-pressed to find such a stunning variety of outwear anywhere else on the planet. The prices? Well, just think of it as investment dressing. A few steps away is the Overland Ranch Store, jammed with impressive furnishings and home décor. Check out the hand-painted clothing in the Blue Fish Boutique. Or contemplate some of the local talent at the Envision Gallery.
Artistic and Photographic Images: Courtesy of the New Mexico Land of Enchantment Tourism Department, U.S. Bureau of Land Management, artist Kit Lynch, and photographers Philip Greenspun, Mark Nohl and Jim Orr. Robin O’Grady is a roving freelance writer living in Michigan. Contact her at: alphabetsoup@earthlink.net Helpful Links: |
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Not a nature lover at heart? Tough. This scenery grabs hold of you and weaves itself into your spirit like a brilliant Navajo rug. There’s no escaping the mesmerizing, ever-changing mystique of New Mexico’s northern landscape.
No other state in the country offers such a vast chain of ancient pueblos, archeological ruins and still-thriving historic villages. 
In a region that somehow has managed to transcended time, Native American, Spanish, Victorian and Western influences crowd together comfortably like well-worn calico. 
If you’re lucky enough to be heading into New Mexico along Highway 84 from Pagosa Springs, Colorado, it’s an intriguing ride. Remote is an understatement. Make sure you gas up the car and have some provisions on hand. There won’t be a chain-store or fast-food anything, thankfully, until Taos. 
This is North America’s longest—and highest—narrow-gauge steam railroad. Be prepared for a 64-mile excursion. Bring a jacket (it can get nippy, even in the summer). Riding on a coal-propelled train, while quaint, is not the cleanest experience. Wear a hat, sunglasses and anything else that will protect you from the billowing engine cinders.
The train tour is a six-hour event…and you’re still light-years away from Taos…so plan to stay at one of the area’s many rustic lodges. 
Can’t spare a whole day chugging along the tracks? Explore Main Street—which still looks a lot like it did in the 1890s—and retrace the steps of silver barons, cowboys and “head-west” settlers. 
Take a right turn in Tierra Amarilla, follow the short route into Los Ojos, where you’ll discover a quaint meadow village that blends Victorian and adobe architecture.
Tierra Wools, a nonprofit organization, offers an educational overview of this ancient craft. Visit the “loom room” and watch artisans at work. Or browse the vibrant selection of hand-dyed organic yarns and hand-spun rugs, clothing and home accessories.
The prices are good, so if you see something you like, buy it. Just remember, the car still needs to carry passengers…and you haven’t even started shopping Taos yet!
Do stop in at Otra Vuelta (Spanish for “another turn”) and see Robert Archuleta’s colorful rubber creations. This nonprofit enterprise transforms abandoned tires into functional floor mats, truck-bed liners and livestock mats. (Squeeze yet another item into the car and start traveling…there’s still a lot of ground to cover.)
Once you hit the sparse Tres Piedres intersection, you’re on the final leg of the drive…which is by far the best part…nature lover or not.
The sheer isolation as you snake around the mountains and meadows is, quite simply, humbling. If you’re lucky enough to be driving in the fall, the panoramic views are offset by Aspens that glisten for miles like blazing confetti.
At first glance, the scene looks otherworldly. Dwellings, that barely resemble homes as we know them, are submerged in dirt, exposed only on the sun-side. Turns out, it’s a “biotech community” where the residents appear to be living like, well, human prairie dogs. 
The “Earthship” inhabitants have developed a planet-friendly subdivision where they really take the slogan “renew, reuse, recycle” to heart. Residents here grow their own food and live entirely “off the grid,” which is the lingo for sourcing their own water and electricity. 
You barely have enough time to recover from the whole earthy, spacey, biotech thing when you arrive at the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge. Another of the state’s on-the-record-books architectural marvels, this is the second-highest suspension bridge in the USA. 
The brave can venture along the narrow pedestrian walkway that spans the bridge. A small observation platform rests at the mid-point, where the Rio Grande runs wild 600 feet below. More photo ops!
Stone pathways amble around natural gardens and rustic buildings. Pull up a patio chair at La Strada and order a delicious Tuscany-style meal. Sit back and listen to the trickling waterfall as you sip on a glass of wine. Or steal away after placing your order, and preview the many boutiques just a few feet away.
Stroll. Wander. Chat. Order another glass of wine. There’s no rush. After all, this is New Mexico. A place where time becomes inconsequential as the old and the new blend together without missing a beat. No wonder locals so fondly call this the Land of Enchantment.