The Road to Mandalayby Sandra Scott Over a century ago Rudyard Kipling visited Burma, now called Myanmar, and said it was “quite unlike any land you know about.” His poem, “The Road to Mandalay” has invoked images of romance and beauty in the minds of travelers for generations. Myanmar is still an exotic destination that has changed little in the last 50 years. The most beguiling aspect of Myanmar is its people who are friendly and welcoming and not jaded by the world of commercialism. Imagine a country with no McDonalds and no WalMarts!
 I arrived in Yangon and my first impression was positive. The city streets are lined with trees and it is very quiet, mainly because honking the car horn is not allowed in the city center. Our hotel, the Governor’s Residence, is located on a quiet street in an area that is home to many embassies. A gong announced my arrival and the beginning of unparalleled service. I fell in love with the Governor’s Residence immediately with its beautiful gardens, jade-colored pool, and teak buildings built in the traditional style.
 For six dollars an hour I hired a car and English-speaking driver to tour Yangon. The first stop was an open-air glass factory in a jungle setting. The kilns are in buildings covered with rusty metal sheets. The rain upon the roof must sound like judgment day. There are piles of glass objects everywhere making me wonder just how they knew what was where. But, it all worked because I recognized their glass products at all the hotels I visited.
 The Myanmar people are welcoming and want foreigners to love their country as much as they do. At the Temple of the Reclining Buddha I was invited into the monk’s living quarters. Quietly, because most of the monks were sleeping, I toured the building. The monks get up at 4 a.m. to pray and live a very Spartan life with the local community supplying their food. They are not allowed to eat after noon and often nap in the afternoon. All Buddhists males spend some time as a monk – some for a few days and some for a lifetime. In the evening I visited the most important Buddhist Temple, Shwedagon Pagoda, to watch the sunset. Truly a symphony in gold at sunset.
 I hated to leave the serenity of the Governor’s Residence but the river was calling me. I flew to Bagan and boarded the luxurious “Road to Mandalay” riverboat on the Ayeyarwady River. It is part of the Orient Express so connections, tours, and service was seamless and perfect. The staff of the Road to Mandalay led tours of the ancient capital of Bagan, which was at its pinnacle between 1057 and 1287. The impressive ruins spread over acres and gave insight to the power that was once Myanmar. The Orient Express tours were informative, well planned and diverse. We visited pagodas; watched people make pottery, lacquer ware, and other handicrafts; wandered through farming villages; visited a nunnery; went for an ox cart ride; explored the Festival Market; and watched the sunset from atop a pagoda.
 At the lacquer ware factory I was amazed at the process that takes days to make a beautiful lacquer box that sells for only one U. S. dollar. The hardworking gold-pounders prepare gold leaf for enhancing the pagoda in a process that can only be done by hand. The potter’s wheel is still hand-powered but the workers work so deftly and swiftly that they turn out an amazing number of pots every day. There were so many wonderful sights to see and interesting things to learn. I especially enjoyed walking through the villages where crops are raised, cattle are cared for, and work is done as it has been done for generations. In the villages I felt welcome but not an intruder. The villagers waved but continued their work as if we were just friends passing by. The people were so open and friendly that we felt very comfortable everywhere. Truly, I now have images to last a lifetime.
 On board “The Road to Mandalay,” a French chef prepared gourmet dinners every evening. Dinner was followed by entertainment but one evening was magical beyond description. After a blazing sunset, we gathered under the full moon on the top deck for the Festival of Lights. Off on the horizon there were hundreds and hundreds of small colored lights. Slowly, while listening to classical music, the candlelit, colored lanterns flowed with the current until they surrounded the boat. Incredible!
While sailing we enjoyed the boat’s pool but the best part was sitting on the deck watching the ever-changing scenery. For the people the Ayeyarwady River is life itself. They bathe in it, transport their goods on it, catch fish for dinner, water their animals, and play in it! It was National Geographic come alive.  One day we were especially fortunate and quipped that the staff of the “Road to Mandalay” planned everything to perfection. We arrived in a local village in time to see a long, colorful parade. The procession was headed to the temple where the boys were to take part in the Novice Monks Ceremony and the girls in the Ear Piercing Ceremony. The Novice Monk Ceremony is one of the most important events in the life of a Buddhist boy. As a novice monk they shave their heads, don rust-colored robes, live a simple life, and learn the teachings of Buddha. The tradition dates back to the time of Buddha some 2,500 years ago when Buddha made his son a novice. The boys dressed in princely attire rode horses shaded with umbrellas. The girls were beautifully attired in colorful longyis – the typical wrap-around cloth worn by men and women. Colorfully dressed family members carried gifts for the temple. Even the horses, cows, and carts were festively decorated. The new novices usually stay in the monastery for seven days under the care of the monks. For the girls the Ear Piercing Ceremony is mostly a social event because after their ears are pierced they return home for a feast and celebration attended by the entire village.
 There is only one problem with the “Road to Mandalay” river cruise – the trip isn’t long enough! Our stateroom was so beautiful I would have loved to have more time to enjoy it and we never had time to enjoy piano bar in the evening or to just relax in one of the common areas. There was always so much to see along the river. Some guests opted to skip some of the tours but I was afraid I’d miss something. I guess I will just have to take the cruise again!
Kipling was correct Burma is “…quite unlike any land…”. If you go check www.governorsresidence.com, www.orient-express.com, and/or Kerstin at www.myanmartravelagent.com, May at www.myanmarwonderstravel.com, Vidya at www.journeysmyanmar.com, and in the U.S. www.countrywalkers.com. | 