Around The Horn

Buenos Aires to Valparaiso and Back

by Robert Painter

Do you want a recipe for fun and adventure?  Combine Argentina, Uruguay, Chile and the Falklands.  Add Cape Horn, the Beagle Channel, the Strait of Magellan and some fabulously beautiful Chilean fjords.  Now blend in Christmas and New Years’ Eve.  Stir in a few hundred Brazilians, Mexicans, Columbians, Argentines, Americans, Germans and generous sprinklings of a dozen or more nationalities.  If that’s not enough take a hundred or more of those adventurous souls and give them Tango lessons every day at sea.

This tale begins with a week in Beautiful Buenos Aires.  I have fallen in love with the vibrancy and pace of this “Paris of South America” as some would call it.  I prefer to think of it simply as Beautiful Buenos Aires, quite distinct and able to stand alone.  While it does remind me of other places, I think, for those with the good sense to spend time here, it becomes the standard with which other cities might be compared.

The romance of the Tango is everywhere, the unmatched steaks (best in the house at about $10), the street entertainers, beautiful monuments and parks across the city, the widest avenue anywhere in the world, an obelisk to be seen for miles, the Recoleta cemetery with its memorial to Evita, exciting markets at San Telmo and Recoleta on the weekends, the majestic Calatreva designed Puente de la Mujer (Woman’s Bridge) and the remarkable Colonial buildings to be found everywhere could keep you in the city for weeks.  Or longer.  I have spent over two months in this exciting place and cannot wait for my next visit. 

I’ll be back.  Not only to go to the dentist (that’s another story which I would be happy to share with you - just email me) where I saved thousands of dollars. I want to explore more of the wonderful neighborhoods like La Boca and San Telmo (both of which seem to claim the birth of the Tango), Recoleta, Palermo and Puerto Madero.  I want to spend more time strolling the pedestrian only Avenida Florida with all its buskers, artists, dancers, magicians and people alive with the vibrancy of the city.  I know someone in Buenos Aires must watch TV, but untold numbers are filling the streets all day and well into the night.  Families walk hand in hand, mothers and daughters walk with linked arms, fathers carry their beautiful young children and rarely do you spot anyone terribly overweight.  And there are ice cream shops and pastry stores everywhere. 

But now we must leave the city. There is a ship waiting to transport us on this magical journey. I must make one more stop, however before boarding.  It is a long flight to Buenos Aires from almost anywhere in the world - even from many parts of South America.  I came down on AA , but this next little trip was to a place not served by American Airlines. So, I hopped on board an Aerolineas Argentinas flight to visit the unbelievable Iguazu Falls on the Argentina - Brazil border.  Believe this - it will take your breath away.  It makes the wonderful Niagara Falls look like a dripping faucet.  Well, not exactly, but I’m at a loss to express the magnitude of these falls.  I had heard about them before, but then passed on the idea because it does cost a few hundred dollars to fly over here from B.A. Don’t make that mistake. These falls are something you’ll remember forever.  Do Not Miss Them.

It is time to get on board the Norwegian Dream and head for the horn.  The first stop is Montevideo, Uruguay, a lovely city sometimes called the “Switzerland of South America” with its beautiful late-colonial buildings and scenic plazas.

Not to be missed are the Teatro Solis built in 1857 and the spectacular Palacio Salvo which is 26 stories tall and can be seen for miles in any direction.  On the same plaza you will find the Gateway to the Citadel, the last remaining section of fortification wall around Old Town.  The Mercado del Puerto, in the old port building near the waterfront is one of the liveliest attractions to be found here.  The market is filled with an astonishing array of meats being grilled for your lunch, and there a variety of artists, musicians and vendors.

Puerto Madryn, back in Argentine waters is the place to view elephant seals.  They don’t do much but lie in the sun, but they are immense and worth seeing at least once.  Sea lions, on the other hand, are quite active.  I was on the Peninsula Valdes here in early January and it was apparently the birthing season, with many newborns to observe.  Be sure and bring your binoculars.  As a matter of fact, there is so much spectacular wildlife viewing, waterfalls, glaciers and other landmarks to see on this voyage that you may want to consider investing in some high power glasses for this trip.  Or, at least, borrow them from a friend. 

Next stop - Falkland Islands.  Port Stanley is a small town and can be visited quite easily on foot.  You can even buy some North American candy bars in the shop here.  But, if you want to get a good idea of what is like to live on a Falklands farm, then I suggest a visit to the Long Island Farm owned by the Watson family. Not only will you get to see old-fashioned sheep shearing and horse gearing demonstrations, but you can also join in and dig up a bit of peat which is the traditional source of heating fuel. It’s hard work, but the peat is plentiful and it is interesting to see exactly how it is cut and harvested.                                                                       

Ushuaia bills itself as “Fin del Mundo” meaning end of the world. It is the jumping off place for trips to the Antarctic.  I sailed from here a couple of years ago aboard the Marco Polo for a never to be forgotten cruise into Antarctica.  If you want to see penguins, there is no better way.  We did see some on this voyage, but only a few from the ship.  You need to take a special shore excursion to really get close to the little guys.

Sailing around Cape Horn offers the opportunity to imagine what it must have been like onboard the old sailing vessels that rounded the Horn before the advent of the Panama Canal.  It is cold, very windy and desolate.  Just seeing another ship is surprising.  The wind is so strong that parts of the walking deck are closed off.  When they’re not closed you have to lean heavily into the wind and, as you round the bow, be ready to jog a few meters till you get out of the wind so your body won’t be blown ahead of your feet.  All in all, kind of fun, but maybe a bit too hazardous for many of the ship’s passengers.  On a fairly clear day you can view the large monument - an Albatross cut into a large piece of steel, or so it appears.  The first time I rounded the horn I was told to look for a sculpture of an albatross.  I looked for something shaped like a bird and never found it until someone pointed it out to me.  Then with my telephoto lens I could barely make it out. 

One of my favorite stops in Chile was a tour to the Estancia Fitz Roy. Robert Fitz Roy explored the southern coast of Chile on board the Beagle with a fellow named Charles Darwin.  This farm is a truly amazing place.  With more than two thousand antiques, including old farm tractors and equipment, the chance to take a horse ride (not a “trail ride”) where you can get on the horse and just take off at your own pace, stroll about the colorful flower gardens, enjoy a sheep shearing demonstration, ride around the property in a tractor-pulled wagon and walk among the guanacos you’ll find this to be an experience to be had in no other place.  And, to top that all off, you will be served the local beverage Pisco Sour and fed a delightful barbecue buffet of Patagonian Lamb which you can observe beforehand grilling slowly around the outdoor fire.

Cruising along the Peel Inlet we drift up close to the Amalie Glacier.  It looks impressive from a distance and up close it becomes enormous.  About 40 meters high and more than a half mile wide.  When we sent out a small boat to pick up a block of the glacier ice to bring on board the contrast was then clearly apparent.  The boat became a tiny speck alongside the Amalie.  It didn’t calve or crack or creak or moan the way I have heard glaciers do in both Alaska and the Antarctic, but there were icebergs in the water so I guess we just missed that part of the fun.

This southern part of Argentina and Chile is known by the name of Patagonia. It reaches across 1200 miles and the name is said to come from a Spanish word meaning “big foot.”  The natives supposedly wrapped their feet in fur which in turn left very large foot prints.  Another story is that the people of Tierra del Fuego reminded the Spaniards of a popular giant cartoon character named Patagon.  In any case, it is a land worth seeing. If you don’t believe me, ask Che. Or at least see the movie about his life. 

Now about spending the holidays on board a ship.  The South American families on this trip were a joy to be around.  So much laughing, dancing, hugging and kissing.  Family members touching, holding hands, walking arm in arm and just spending time together. Some of the teens were a bit rambunctious from time to time, but I never saw anything malicious or mean. Just lots of fun.  As for the adults I can truly say that I have never been to a bigger or better New Year’s party.  The main ballroom, the observatory lounge, the disco - every place on board was jammed with party-goers. The champagne was flowing and I’m sure guests were consuming plenty of “adult” beverages, but no one seemed to be getting out of control.  And, they were all dancing. And, I mean all ages. From the youngest to the oldest. 

I remember one cute little girl who loved to dance whenever the band was playing.  She would dance by herself and just keep going and going.  There was a little guy, probably about 1 year old, whose mother would bring him to the Stardust Lounge whenever the band was playing.  She said he just loved music and it must have been true.  He would sit or maybe lie on the floor and listen and watch intently as long as the band would play and as long as his mother would allow him to stay.

As the title to this story suggests, I took back to back cruises, ending up at my starting point, Buenos Aires.  I stayed part of the time at the InterContinental Hotel, a perfect spot within easy walking distance of many of the things you’ll want to see and do in the city.  You can also take a taxi from the front door - they’re very inexpensive.  Or you can be a bit more adventurous and take the subway.  It’s only a couple of blocks away and for only about a quarter you can get to many parts of the city very quickly.  But, if you want to see more of the city take a bus.  They’re a few cents more than the subway, but wander all over the city.  And, it seems that you never have to wait more than a few minutes to catch a ride to wherever you’re going.  The stops are well marked and there are signs at all the stops that tell you which bus to take to get to which stop.

Finally, if you’ve spent all your money shopping on Florida - don’t miss the Galeria Pacifico and it’s beautiful ceiling murals - and you think you can’t afford another fabulous steak dinner for $10, there are plenty of small markets and “super mercados” around where you can buy some very tasty and very cheap Port Salut cheese made in Argentina. 

I don’t usually have much to say about airlines - they get you there and that’s what they’re supposed to do.  But, flying on American Airlines for my return home, we experienced mechanical problems even before we took off.  Sitting on the runway and being told there is a valve problem in one of the jet engines is not very comforting.  We were on the tarmac for quite some time while they tried to remedy the problem, but it was not to be.  Eventually, we were taken off the plane and we didn’t leave until the next morning.  I bring this up simply because I was so impressed with the way the AA ground staff dealt with the sometimes angry and hostile passengers who wanted to be heading home.  Most of the flights headed north leave late at night and fly overnight.  Most of the passengers have already put in a full day of sightseeing and are eager to get on the plane, have a meal, relax, maybe watch a movie and then sleep. They are not in a good mood to deal with delays.  Anyway, the AA staff worked overtime, some staying there all night, trying in every way possible to accommodate their “guests.” So, this time, rather than complaining about the cramped space (I’m 6'2") and the long flight, I want to commend the AA staff for their exceptional courtesy and concern shown to their passengers.

There is much more that could be said about the six weeks I spent in South America, but I have run out of space.  Look at my and imagine yourself in them.  Maybe someday you’ll be there in person.

When You Go:

American Airlines: www.aa.com. Daily flights between Buenos Aires and several U.S. cities.

InterContinental Hotel: www.InterContinental.com.   Type in Buenos Aires for information on this great, centrally located hotel.

Buenos Aires: www.easybuenosairescity.com/english.htm.  Lots of practical info you can use.

Iguazu Falls: www.gosouthamerica.about.com/cs/southamerica/a/IguazuFalls.htm. Some say the view from the Brazilian side is better, but the Argentinian side is fantastic and you won’t need a Brazilian visa.