Juneau, Alaska, Is A Capital Destination!by Naomi K. Shapiro
Most visitors to Juneau arrive by cruise ship for brief stopovers on the way to somewhere else, but we recently found another way to experience Alaska, by flying to Juneau and savoring her capital offerings before heading to nearby Gustavus and Glacier Bay National Park for additional adventures. Our connecting flight from Seattle to Juneau followed the inland passage northward, and when we looked down from our plane's windows, we were mesmerized by the ocean rolling to the west, as narrow, green inlets and bays licked into the pristine mountain and forest coastline below. When we landed in Juneau, it was raining. So what else is new? Juneau, in southeast Alaska, is embraced by the 16.9-million acre Tongass National Rainforest, part of the largest temperate rainforest in the world. It rains a lot, but the temperatures are relatively mild, and the weather definitely doesn't keep people indoors! Most of Juneau's 30,000 residents claim they live there because of the extensive recreation opportunities. And that's true. Miles of trails, for hiking, biking, and cross country skiing lace the Juneau area, and the whole region, rich with history and native culture, garnished by mountains, glaciers, and unbelievable wildlife and sealife, has something for everyone! Since Juneau is accessible only by air or water, you can also get there on the excellent, Alaska Marine Highway system, with comfortable ferries leaving from Bellingham, Washington; and Prince Rupert, British Columbia year-round; or from nearby Haines and Skagway, Alaska in the high season. And, if you decide to travel to Juneau without a vehicle, you can take a cab or rent a car, camper, or RV when you arrive. The city has a total of forty miles from the end of the Glacier Highway to downtown, with a number of area streets and sideroads; plus 22 more miles on adjacent Douglas Island.
Our good fortune was to discover Pearson's Pond Luxury Suites & Garden Spa B & B, where we spent two wonderful, peaceful, relaxing nights. Consistently voted among the best and most romantic B & B's of the world (and deservedly so), Pearson's Pond's understated luxury and attention to every detail made us feel that we were the most important and interesting people in the world.
Pearson's main kitchen is large and welcoming, with fridge and cupboards chock-full of foods and snacks, as well as wines, cheeses, fruits, juices, yogurts, and much more. And, Pearson's Pond gave me the opportunity to try something I'd never done before -- enjoy a first-time-ever massage, by manager and massage therapist par excellence, Becky Garcia.
No matter the reason, you will be treated like Royalty and your every need will be anticipated and met at Pearson's Pond, which explains why people come back to Pearson's Pond again and again. Pearson's Pond is also an excellent base from which to experience Juneau's attractions and activities, in any season. On the short list, you can spend some time in the marvelous Alaska State Museum; take a mining history tour and pan for gold; make a city walking tour; visit fish hatcheries and see fish ladders; see the State Capitol building; take a tram-ride up Mt. Roberts; go to the Glacier Gardens Rainforest Center; shop and dine. Or, hitch up with one of the many outing and adventure and guide services, to go whale watching, flightseeing, dogsledding, skiing, kayaking, hiking, fishing, cruising, and much more. Not to mention cross-country skiing in season.
One of 38 large glaciers that flow from the 5,000 square mile expanse of rock, snow and ice known as the Juneau Icefield, the Mendenhall was first named the Auke Glacier in 1879 by John Muir, after the 'aak'w Kwaan' of the Tlingit people. It was later renamed for Thomas Corwin Mendenhall, who had headed the U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey from 1889 to 1894. The USDA (U.S. Dept. of Agriculture) Forest Service maintains a first-class visitor center and parking area at the foot of the Mendenhall Glacier, and offers a wide variety of activities including guided hikes, kids' programs, a campground, picnic area, salmon-viewing platform, exhibit hall, observatory, theater, and gift shop.
Then they helicoptered us out onto the glacier -- where they added crampons to our boots and gave us a pick axe that served as a walking stick and hill-climbing aid -- plus lessons on how to walk on the glacier's surface. I never did quite get the hang of it, but there I was -- outfitted in my bright red jacket, feeling like Edmund Hillary! It wasn't easy. The instructor/guide helped us jump across narrow crevasses, traverse the hills and rills, and see some of the phenomenal structures carved by the melting, running water. Our guide was terrific, holding on to our harnesses and helping us, as appropriate, like a dog walker in New York City. Arf. Arf! I was actually 'brought to my knees' by the experience, when my crampons got stuck as I went down a hill, resulting in a crash to the hard, marbled ice surface.
When we got back to town, we lifted our spirits (and our bodies) with a tram-ride up Mt. Roberts. At the top, you'll find a nature center, gift shop, and hiking trails. You'll also have breathtaking views of the Inland Passage, the Admiralty Islands, and the City of Juneau. The visitor center at the top of Mt. Roberts is operated by the Tlingit (pronounced Kling-it) people. I especially enjoyed watching a film about the Tlingit culture and heritage in the beautiful 120-seat Chilkat Theater.
You can also hike on trails at the top, some up to 2 miles long (one way), and see some 'culturally modified' spruce trees, carved by Tlingit people, cut such that the tree's sap creates a protective seal so the trees aren't harmed. It was interesting to learn that the Tlingit used spruce pitch as a medicine for burns, skin irritations, slivers, colds, sore throats, rheumatism, and toothaches. Five or more cruise ships can dock and deploy hundreds of passengers for brief "shore leave" from Juneau's harbor, to enjoy many optional activities, as well as visit shops offering locally-produced jams and jellies; smoked meats and fish, clothing, art, and native crafts. The Juneau Convention & Visitors Bureau has a map for an excellent walking tour that captures the essence of the city's history and development. We were awed when we learned that the wharf complex of shops was the original hangar for the seaplanes that serviced Alaska in the early days, the very air service that became today's Alaska Airlines!
Afterwards, we drove past Alaska's State Capitol building, just north of downtown Juneau. Then we headed west of town, to the Shrine of St. Theresa, where we enjoyed the silence of the old stone chapel, wildflowers in the woods, views of the Lynn Canal, and seeing lots of birds.
For those who like to see their salmon close-up, we stopped at the fish ladders at the Macaulay Salmon Hatchery, just south of town, and also peeked into their small museum, gift shop, and fish store.
Our last night in Juneau, we stayed at the Goldbelt Hotel, right across from the dock, where, early the next morning, we would catch a comfortable ferry for a delightful three-hour cruise to the nearby community of Gustavus, location of the headquarters for Glacier Bay National Park, as well as the Bear Track Inn, where we would stay in luxury for the rest of the week. All in all, Juneau, like the rest of Alaska, is a unique and grand experience -- offering much more than a ship-to-shore stopover. Our extended stay was so delightful, we're already planning all the things we will do on our next visit -- which, I happen to know, will be very soon! For more information: Juneau Convention & Visitors Bureau Alaska Visitor Information Pearson's Pond Luxury Suites & Garden Spa Above and Beyond Alaska LLC HiTime Charters, Captain Toni Naomi K. Shapiro is a Wisconsin-based travel and outdoor writer. e-mail: cre8vads@cheqnet.net |
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A true tourist heaven, Juneau boasts more than 1000 rooms in an extensive variety of accommodations, including hotels, motels, B & B's, and condos. There are also many campgrounds. No matter how you get there or where you stay, it's easy to sample the Juneau-area's extensive offerings.
The ultra-comfortable rooms came replete with welcome baskets overflowing with fruits, snacks and candies, fresh flowers, mood music, gas fireplaces, down comforters, ultra-comfortable mattresses and pillows (which you can purchase), kitchenettes, and spa-like showers and hot tubs. 
Pearson's Pond is the perfect place to get away and relax, and Pearson's Pond's owner, Diane Pearson is a multi-talented person, specializing in horticulture, marketing, and travel planning, but she is also qualified to perform weddings, some of which are held right at Pearson's Pond, and some which are held on the nearby Mendenhall Glacier! 
Everyone who's ever been to Juneau has probably visited the famous Mendenhall Glacier. It's the only road-accessible glacier in the USA (just thirteen miles from downtown Juneau) -- and thus, the most-visited glacier in the world, by hundreds of thousands of people every year!
On our second day in Juneau, we hitched up with Above & Beyond Alaska, an adventure outing company, for a slightly more technical activity -- glacier trekking high on the Mendenhall. First, at a base near the airport, they dressed us in special jackets, pants, gaiters, and boots, fastened a special harness around our waist and thighs, and gave us gloves and a fanny pack containing water and an energy bar. 
I highly recommend glacier trekking, but I also recommend that participants be in moderately good shape and reasonably well-coordinated for this medium-soft adventure.
In addition to an array of gift choices, this awesome center also featured native artisans working on unique items such as chiseled ivory, beading, and deerskin slippers. I bought some earrings depicting Orca, the Killer Whale, and a pin representing the Raven.
Also in the Wharf Shops, you'll enjoy munching some halibut-and-chips like we did at the Wharf Restaurant. Or downing a yummy pizza or meatball and marinara sandwich at the cozy Pizzeria Roma. We also had a delightful soup and salad lunch one day at The Fiddlehead Restaurant & Bakery in downtown Juneau, which also offers fine dining at its upstairs Di Sopra Restaurant.
At the Alaska State Museum, we greatly enjoyed walking through the Alaska history, Native culture, and Natural history galleries, which included Aleut crafts, a life-sized eagle tree, old navigation maps, huge Russian samovars, and many other historical artifacts and exhibits. The museum also features revolving art displays.
Since sportfishing is a mainstay of Alaska tourism, a host of experienced captains help thousands of Juneau visitors find fishing Nirvana each year. I spent one morning with Capt. Toni Wisner of HiTime Charters, and nabbed a couple of nice salmon, with the bonus of seeing some whales spouting in the distance.
And, if you crave a taste of Juneau's extensive goldmining legacy, head for the Last Chance Mining Museum, housed in the compressor building of the old Alaska Juneau Gold Mining Company, in the hills just outside of town.