Cultural Cradle of the NationWinnipeg, ManitobaBy Linda Aksomitis
I’ve visited Winnipeg dozens of times, with each experience offering new insights into the city that has produced a disproportionate number of creative talents: musicians Burton Cummings, the Crash Test Dummies, Randy Bachman and the Guess Who; screenwriter and actor Nia Vardalos, whose movie “My Big Fat Greek Wedding” was one of the highest-grossing independent films of all time; Academy Award winning animator, Richard Condie; and many other artists, filmmakers and more. Last March, as winter was making one last run at the prairies, I decided it was time to step inside the cultural landscape of the city myself and soak up some of the Nation’s best experiences, looking for inspiration. It all begins, of course, with a place to stay—since I couldn’t decide I opted for a move with a night at two different ones! My first pick was the Fairmont Winnipeg, in the heart of Winnipeg’s Historic Exchange District, with its turn-of-the-century architecture. Somewhere in the hotel Rod Stewart was also soaking up the atmosphere, but no matter how many corners I ducked into, I didn’t get the opportunity to collect his autograph.
Just as comfortable and well-placed, I checked into Winnipeg’s only boutique hotel, Inn at the Forks & Riverstone Spa for my second night. Wow! The only hotel at this National Historic Site, it provided me with a unique experience in a truly memorable setting. As if a spa treatment isn’t usually enough to bring complete relaxation, I spent the afternoon curled up in front of the fireplace, listening to the water wall, and reading a new bestseller—what more could any woman ask for?
There were, of course, many more activities than I could fit into a few short days—and still take advantage of the great shopping. Fire in the Sky at the Planetarium introduced me to the northern lights, letting me lean back and take in the panorama of the night sky. Astronomy is fascinating, particularly when the presentation revolves around one of nature’s most wondrous shows, the aurora borealis.
Fine dining is often the crown of a great holiday, and Winnipeg’s restaurants provided some of the best. Settling in my first night, I relaxed in the Fairmont Hotel’s Velvet Glove, Winnipeg’s 4 Diamond CAA-AAA restaurant. The meal, served with a European flair, proved to be world class. The Fusion Grill, winner of the Cuvee Award of Distinction for Best Wine list, proved to be just as tasty the next evening. From the green salad with chokecherry vinaigrette Bartlette pear, to the Arctic char with caipirinha glaze entrée, dinner was a delectable mix of tastes I highly recommend.
Photo credits for the Winnipeg skyline, the Forks, and Royal Winnipeg Ballet to Travel Manitoba; to Linda Aksomitis for the polar bear and Fairmont hotel . Contact information: Destination Winnipeg Fairmont Winnipeg Inn at the Forks & Riverstone Spa Fusion Grill The Manitoba Museum & Planetarium Canada’s Royal Winnipeg Ballet Manitoba Theatre Centre |
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What makes Winnipeg a cultural cradle? Centuries of tradition gathering at The Forks? The largest number of restaurants per capita of anywhere in North America? More than 36 museums? The largest collection of contemporary Inuit art in the world? While all of these make up part of Winnipeg’s cultural mosaic, my bet is on the unique multicultural perspective shared by its half-million or so inhabitants, to whom creativity is second nature.
The Fairmont’s facilities were superb, with even the rooftop offering second-to-none opportunities: a stunning view of Winnipeg’s famous corner of Portage and Main, along with a pool and health facility. Access on the main floor was provided to the underground corridor of stores and businesses that kept me out of the cold, while still getting around in less-than-exciting weather. I saved the best for last though, crawling in the king-sized feather bed long after I should have. 
Of course with both these great nights, I had to line up lots of culture and fine dining to take full advantage of the city. In retrospect it’s difficult to say whether I enjoyed the theatre or the ballet more. The Dresser, a play that has also been made into a film nominated for five Oscars, drew me into the drama of an actor and his “dresser,” in World War II London at the Manitoba Theatre Centre. Rodeo, a 35-minute piece of Americana created by Agnes de Mille, was the most enjoyable ballet I’ve ever seen. The mixed bill also included Rudi van Dantzig’s Four Last Songs and Inspiration, another fascinating piece. Indeed, Canada’s Royal Winnipeg Ballet is one of the country’s oldest professional modern repertoire dance companies.
Dinosaurs, stampeding bison, and a 1920s downtown took me back in time at the Manitoba Museum—along with a five-storey sailing ship. My favourite section, however, was a stroll through the Arctic/Sub-Arctic gallery. This section showcased the people and animals of the far North in vivid displays that whisked me away momentarily to other parts of the province.
And so, my getaway to Canada’s cultural cradle garnered many rewards and lasting memories. Winnipeg, the get to know me city, is a year-round hotspot on the prairies.