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Traverse City, MI: a Delightful SurpriseBy Denise A. ManningAs a skeptical New Englander smug about the delights of a Maine summer, I arrived in Traverse City, Michigan unsure of what to expect. The original plan was to spend three days learning to fly fish at the Orvis School and then perhaps fritter away the rest of the week lounging by the brilliant blue lake while eating cherries. This seemed like a good plan considering the convenience of the Streamside Orvis school located in the lobby of my hotel, the impressive Grand Traverse Resort and Spa and the fact that Traverse City calls itself the cherry capital of the world. The resort is north of the city, nestled amidst three lush golf courses. Other facilities include indoor and outdoor pools, tennis courts, and a beach house on the lake. Once I cleared the airport and the fast food sprawl on the outskirts of town, I caught a glimpse of cherry trees laden with gorgeously, red, ripe fruit and began to wonder if I had miscalculated. Would a week be long enough? Initially, the resort’s modern, seventeen-story tower that is visible for miles seemed inconsistent with its surroundings. After being shown to my seventh floor corner room, I understood what delights the height has to offer. The miles of breathtaking views include serene countryside as well as sunrises and sunsets. If the tower isn’t for you, the resort has other options to fit every budget and need. An extensive conference facility coupled with 660 rooms make this destination a good possibility for all but the largest business meetings. Without question, the highlight of the trip was the time spent with the talented anglers/instructors from Streamside Orvis. A great many members of my family fish, and I always feet left out as they discuss the intricacies of the sport and exaggerate the size and number of fish they catch. Could I learn the skills needed in three days? Head Instructor, Josh Rhem, humored my determination to succeed. He used the three days of the school in a variety of ways. While time spent in the classroom seemed overly long, it was necessary to the success of his four students. After learning about the intricacies of the rod, line, and reel, we mastered all the tricky knots that keep the line, leader, tippet, and fly connected. We also learned about hatches, emergers, spinners, and a myriad of other pertinent insect terminology. Under the brilliant blue of a Michigan summer sky, we practiced casting with rods of different lengths and weights and worked on making our loops tight. Before we began to develop any nasty, bad habits, Josh videotaped our casting styles and led us back inside to take a look at what we had accomplished as well as what we needed to “tweak.” This use of video was immensely helpful. I could hardly wait to get back outside to give it another try. Dave Leonhard, master instructor and owner of Streamside Orvis, was a wonderful resource as well. In his very quiet, Joda-like way, he encouraged our progress and shared his many years of expertise. Being new at a challenging sport can be intimidating, but I never felt discouraged. Although learning the basics is an important first step, it is essential to understand the intense commitment required to become a real fisherperson. The men and women at Streamside Orvis were inspiring teachers, models, and friends. As we graduated, Josh handed us his card and insisted that we call him whenever we find that we need help with our progress. When I finally waded out into the sparkling water of the Boardman River, rod in hand, I knew exactly what to do. No, I didn’t catch a fish, but I can speak the language of fly-fishing and my cast isn’t half-bad! Dave suggested that I return home and critique my husband’s technique. Although a vacation in itself, the Orvis school only lasted a few short days. The rest of the resort needed exploring and the teal blue waters of Lake Michigan were calling my name. The next morning, I hopped in a golf cart and headed for the clubhouse. The Jim Mclean Golf School, just a short distance away from the courses themselves, looks like an upscale garage with three large bays. After a brief tour of the facility, I understood the method to their madness. Enormous doors that easily open and close can accommodate every type of weather. Although not as humid as the rest of the Mid-West in the summer, upstate Michigan is prone to sudden, intense thunderstorms. After a brief tour, Jason Jenkins, program coordinator, had me pick up a club and start swinging. Like the teachers at Orvis, Jason utilized technology. As I was busy hooking and slicing, Jason was videotaping my progress. He didn’t even snicker at my mini-golf technique. Moments later, he had me sitting at the computer screen, where he critiqued my grip and my back swing. The immediate visual comparison between me and a person with the correct stance, grip, and swing was enormously helpful. The indoor/outdoor setup of the school combined with mirrors, computers, a video camera, and a very attentive teacher would have had me on my way in no time. The Mclean School has multiple options for players of all levels as well as reasonable packages for the whole family. Given more time, I would have signed up. The Spa at Grand Traverse is located in an older part of the hotel but well worth the advanced navigational and map reading skills necessary to find it. Although tempted by the Swedish massage and aromatherapy options, I decided to indulge myself with an hour-long cherry paraffin pedicure. As I sipped hot tea, a lovely young woman named Heather clipped, filed, massaged, and then dipped my weary feet in hot wax. Our time together ended with an expert application of the color “Cha-Ching Cherry” that is sure to last several weeks. The only place left to investigate was the resort’s beach house down on the lake. The shuttles leave from the lobby and drop you at The Shores. There is a pool, a small snack bar and a place to rent sail boats, jet skis, and other equipment. There are plenty of chairs on the deck and sand for relaxing and more than enough room for sandcastles and digging. The dock extends well past the shallow water and there is a raft for more confident swimmers. If you are really interested in taking a sail on a larger boat, you can head into town and board the Nauticat, a 47’ catamaran that slowly cruises around the bay. They serve complimentary snacks and have a cash bar. The specialty drink is a chartreuse, rum concoction aptly named “Catnip.” In between all this coming and going, I was busy eating. The resort has several options, and I tried each with gusto. Although Sweetwater Café, located in the lobby, is okay for a quick bite at breakfast and lunch, the most interesting options can be found at The Grille located at the golf clubhouse and Trillium found on the sixteenth and seventeenth floor of the tower. One noon at The Grille, I could hardly resist licking my plate clean after finishing a tasty baby spinach and shrimp salad accented with lemon Stilton, raspberries, and finished with a lemon vinaigrette. The sophisticated Trillium is the perfect place to end a long, busy day. While watching the sun go down over Lake Michigan, you can sip regional wine or enjoy a personal favorite from an extensive list. I more than enjoyed a Raclette and Emmenthal Fondue followed by a main course of succulent ancho chile encrusted Walleye on a cheesy gordita accented with Picco de gallo, cilantro, and a creamy corn sauce. It was a small wonder that I had room for the mixed berry crisp complimented with a Rainier Cherry and Riesling sauce. Richard Beichner, Executive Chef, has the kind of vision a true “foodie” can enjoy. He embraces local delicacies and is eager to accommodate the discerning tastes of his guests. The best part of this tale is that the resort is merely the starting point for the many other things to do in this area of Michigan. The trip would not be complete without an exploration of the original downtown area of Traverse City with its old storefronts revitalized by new business. American Spoon Foods a retailer of jams, jellies, salsas and marinades is located on Front Street (as well as in the hotel lobby) and has a toothsome treat for everyone’s palate. You can also browse in the used record store, or shop for eclectic home furnishings at Nest. Just around the corner is Folgarelli’s, an Italian market that belongs in Boston’s North End. The Turtle Creek Casino is a short drive away for anyone interested in gambling.All along the shore of the lake, you can find quaint wineries, farm stands, spectacular views, and of course, cherry trees. A sample day trip could include a quick brunch at a local favorite called Pearl’s New Orleans Kitchen. At this small restaurant, located in Elk Rapids, you could enjoy Crawfish Eggs Benedict with a jalapeno hollandaise sauce. Continuing north, a stop at Friske’s Orchards in Ellsworth would be essential. If you’re lucky, you may catch a glimpse of Grandma Friske taking a mixed berry pie from the oven. The final destination of the day could be Petoskey, a delightful town that transports you to a time gone by. After enjoying a Blood Orange gelatto at the American Spoon Foods on Lake Street, poke around in shops like Gattles where you can purchase exquisite linens and towels. Cutler’s has every kitchen gadget known to man as well as racy cocktail napkins and an extensive line of Vera Bradley bags. The Grand Traverse Resort is a versatile destination for a family or group with differing interests. Parents who need a few days to do their own thing can utilize the engaging camp program for six to twelve year olds. For children under six, there is an accredited day care facility. Then, the whole gang can spend the next day or two frolicking at the pool or the lake. The possibilities are limitless. My week in northern Michigan at the Grand Traverse Resort completely exceeded my expectations. When you go, be sure to have some fresh cherries; you won’t believe how scrumptious they are. For further information |
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