A Romantic Getaway
in New York’s Hudson Valley Region

by Colette Connolly

We hadn’t planned on taking the scenic route at the onset of our romantic weekend getaway to New York’s Hudson Valley region earlier this summer, but that’s exactly what happened to us when we ran into heavy traffic on Interstate 87, the main highway that takes drivers from the environs of New York City to upstate New York and beyond.

That serendipitous diversion led us to Rte 9W, a winding road that runs along the western bank of the Hudson River, which made for a pleasant ride north to our destination: the Buttermilk Falls Inn and Spa located in Milton, approximately 70 miles north of the city.

Granted, it took us a while to find the resort, which is situated off a small country road outside the town. However, the warm welcome we received from the hotel’s receptionist, CJ, was worth the wait. CJ explained that we were staying in the property’s main building, the Anning Smith House, which was built in the early 1700s by Capt. Anning Smith, a Revolutionary War general.

Uncovering History

We later discovered much more about the house (which includes 13 guest rooms) when we spent some time looking through an extensive scrapbook in the comfortable library, and also found two areas in the building that reveal the home’s original walls.

The property, which sits on approximately 70 acres, has had many different owners over the years, including famed African-American opera diva Dorothy Maynor, who lived there from 1953-64. In the early 2000s, it was purchased by real estate developer Robert Pollock, who also owns Great Jones Spa in New York City.

Pollock has extended the Buttermilk property quite a bit and it now includes several cottages for guests; a llama farm; an organic garden (with a nearby beehive to help pollinate the produce); a chicken cottage, where chickens, peacocks and even wild turkey can be spotted; a barn gallery; and an environmentally friendly spa, which was constructed last year. The inn also caters to approximately 12 weddings per year and has a special event area overlooking the Hudson for such occasions.

Old World Meets New

It’s the property’s combination of old world charm and modern-day convenience, however, that makes the Buttermilk Falls Inn the perfect getaway for couples. Who wouldn’t love the Jacuzzi-style tubs (in every bathroom), the luxurious bathrobes to slip into afterward, the comfortable four-poster beds, the gas fireplaces to enjoy while you’re snug underneath the sheets, or relaxing in the library’s deep leather sofas?

During our first full day there, we explored the property’s sweeping gardens, ponds and other peaceful areas, such as Lover’s Leap, a quiet place where couples can relax. Breathtaking views of the Hudson River were accessible from our room, but to see the Buttermilk Falls, we had to take a nearby river trail that leads from the back of the main house through the woods and down to the railroad tracks.

Relaxing Spa Treatment

By the time we returned from the falls, having made it up the steep hill to the main property, it was time for some relaxation at the spa. When it was being constructed, developers made every effort to create a true green space on the property. The solar-paneled roof and geo thermal walls provide all of the electricity needed to heat the sauna, steam room and mineral pool. Floors are radiantly heated and the windows are also energy-efficient.

My husband and I chose the Jurlique refreshing facial, a relaxing 30-minute treatment that cost us $55 each. Other spa treatments include waxing, body treatments, poolside manicures and pedicures, healing therapy treatments, massages, and a number of packages to suit all needs, ranging in price from $100 to $395.

To further cleanse our skin, we sweated it out in the sauna and steam room and then jumped into the pool, with its resistant currents, for a more energetic workout.  We were understandably hungry once we left the spa (although there were plenty of healthy snacks to nibble on near the pool). We thought it best to save our appetite for dinner at the inn.

Healthy Eating

Until recently, the inn was not offering evening dinner, but today it serves up to six couples in the dining area, which also serves as the place where guests congregate for breakfast and afternoon tea (additional tables are located on an outdoor veranda). This fall, Pollock will open a new building on the property, complete with a large kitchen, suitable for cookery demonstrations, and other facilities that will accommodate much larger groups. The inn also hopes to offer a catering service to local businesses. 

Staying at the Buttermilk Falls Inn was truly a respite from city life. The organic food (much of which comes from the property’s own organic garden) was delicious and the surroundings were both comfortable and beautiful.

If you Go:

Buttermilk Falls Inn & Spa
220 North Road
Milton, NY 12542
Ph. 877-746-6772
www.buttermilkspa.com

Rates in the inn range in price from $225 to $425 per night. To stay in any of the property’s cottages and larger homes, rates begin at $325 per night.

Other Area Attractions:

Culinary Institute of America
www.ciachef.edu

Home of Franklin D. Roosevelt, Hyde Park
www.nps.gov/hofr

The Vanderbilt Mansion, Hyde Park
www.nps.gov/vama

Storm King Art Center, Cornwall
www.stormking.org

Historic Huguenot Street, New Paltz
www.huguenotstreet.org