It’s Québec
From
Côte De Beaupré’s Shrine To A Historic Mill And Tumbling Waters
by
Habeeb Salloum
We drove on the Côte de
Beaupré following one of the oldest thoroughfares in North America on our
way from Quebec City to Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré. Called the Avenue Royale or
the Route of Nouvelle-France, it is edged by buildings that cover three
centuries of history. Our guide enthusiastically pointed out the
characteristics of a number of the 1,500 ancestral homes of various vintages
and styles. It was a
comprehensive overview of this part of Québec where Canada’s history began.
In
less than an hour we were parked by the famed pilgrimage site of
Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré - for 350 years a mecca for the faithful, journeying
here to seek healing for their ailments or just to pray. Each year more than
a million and a half pilgrims and visitors come to experience the calm and
peace of this revered basilica.
The
first church, where this magnificent shrine now stands, was erected in 1658.
The story goes that during its construction, Luis Guirmont, who was too ill
to work in the building of the church, came to just symbolically lay a stone
and, while doing so, was healed of his affliction. It was the beginning of
an endless parade of the faithful who have claimed they were miraculously
healed after praying at this shrine - dedicated to Sainte Anne, the patron
saint of Québec.
The church was demolished
in 1878 and larger structure re-built then in 1922, it was destroyed by
fire. A much larger basilica was built and consecrated in 1976. Today, the
church, along with its Cycloramic de Jerusalem, covered with granite and
medieval in style, is a combination of carved stone, mosaics and 240 stained
glass windows.
After
touring the church, with the seven deadly sins portrayed on the floor in
mosaic, I went outside to inspect the Way of the Cross, lined with life-size
bronze figures. The others in our group prayed in front of the statue of
Saint Anne, holding her daughter Mary, then stopped awhile by a major relic,
a bone from Saint Anne, before moving on to view a replica of Michelangelo’s
‘Pieta’.
A
short time later, we were on our way back on the Avenue Royale.
As our guide was relating stories and historic anecdotes about the
homes that we were passing, along with the escapades of their once colourful
inhabitants, our bus stopped at the ‘Moulin du Petit Pré’, the oldest
commercial flourmill in North America.
Originally built in 1695, the mill was restored a few years ago by a
major project, consolidating both the tourist industry and heritage of the
Côte de Beaupré.
The
mill’s General Manager Isabelle Longré, dressed in 17th century costume, and
her husband greeted us in the hospitable manner as in the past the settlers
of New France would have done.
In this
aura of living the bygone years, they took us to explore the mill, which
besides being able to produce some 400 pounds of flour per hour, is today a
major tourist attraction.
To
lure even more visitors, the general public are offered a room in the attic,
which can accommodate up to 200 people for conferences, meetings, parties
and weddings. Also, in a shop
customers are introduced to more than a hundred, mostly organic products and
are invited to taste wine as well as raspberry liqueur.
In 2003, the mill was the grand prizewinner of the Québec Bus Owners
Association’s ‘2003 Tourism
Innovator’ contest. In the
words of Isabelle Longré, “We present in our mill the best of what the Côte
de Beaupré has to offer.”
I
was still thinking of the re-creation of the old mill when we stopped at the
majestic Montmorency Waterfalls, one of Quebec’s most spectacular natural
sites, to end our day of exploration.
We
surveyed the Falls from below then took a cable car up to dine at Manior
Montmorency, edging the fall.
Some 15 minute drive from the heart of Quebec, the Falls are featured on a
good number of tours from-the city.
A
spectacular and awe-inspiring natural wonder, its water plummets 84 m (275
ft) on its way to the St. Lawrence River - 30 m (98 ft) higher than Niagara
Falls. The views from the cable car, the panoramic stairway and the bridge
over the Falls are breathtaking. In the winter, the mountains on either side
of the falls become sheets of ice - an ice climber’s mecca.
In the words of one of the waiters, “You should come here in winter
when the Falls become a wonderland for ice climbing enthusiasts.”
As we made our way back to
Québec City, my seat companion commented:
“A great day!” “Interesting stops!” “Québec has so much to offer!”
A
few hours later, after resting in out hotel, we were at the Fairmont Le
Château Frontenac - one of Canada’s renowned historic hotels. That evening
as we sipped our cocktails we were greeted by a young lady, dressed in the
costume of the mid 19th century, who relived with us, the history of the
hotel and its many dramatic moments. In a pleasant and historically accurate
fashion, she related the story of the Canadian Pacific Railway and its
Hotels, such as the Le Château Frontenac, before disappearing from the room
back into history.
IF
YOU GO
Facts
About Quebec City:
When in
Quebec City, take a cruise on the Louis Jolliet cruise ship operated by ‘AML
Cruises’ moored alongside the docks under the Chateau Frontenac on the edge
of the Old Quebec - contact by
toll free number 1-866-856-6668 for this and other cruises by the same
company.
Two
fulfilling tours to take are offered by Viator Tours from Quebec City for;
Montmorency Falls and the shrine of Ste-Anne-de-Beaupré - Cost $45.56; City
Sightseeing Tour - Cost $32.40.
(Prices quoted in CDN dollars.)
Where to
Eat: Old Québec City and the surrounding area have more restaurants per
capita than any other city in North America –some 100 bistros, cafes and
gourmet restaurants. Dinners
run from about $15. in chain restaurants to some $125.CDN in gourmet dining
places. For traditional food
like the meat pie, tourtire, Québec style pork and beans and maple syrup
pie, Aux Anciens Canadiens is the place - meal of the day $19.00 CDN.
Where to
Stay: Hotels offer some 12,000 rooms in and around the old city - 2000 of
these, international class. Two
top hotels are the Hilton Quebec and the Fairmont Le Château Frontenac – the
towering symbol of Quebec City.
Tip
bellboys a dollar a bag and tip 10% to 15% of restaurant bills; and tip
hotel maids $1. to $2. per day.
For
further Information Contact:
Ste.
Anne de Beaupré - Sainte-Anne-de-Beaupré, Québec, Canada GOA 3CO.
Tel: (418) 827-3781.
Fax: (418) 827-8771. Website:
http://www.ssadb.qc.ca/eng/index.htm
Moulin
du Petit Pré - 7007 Avenue Royale, Château-Richer, Québec, GOA 1NO.
Tel: (418) 824-7007.
Website:
Tourisme
Québec: for complete tourist information Québec, call: (514) 873-2015 or
toll free:
1-877-363-7777, or visit Website:
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