The Plaza Machado of the “Pearl of the Pacific”

The Cultural Heart of Mazatlan

by Lance Kramer

The sights, sounds and tastes of the city’s small but most well known square are but one of many reasons to visit Mazatlan’s Old Town and to experience its heritage in every sense of the word.

Approaching the Plazuela Machado, or Plaza Machado, from the north led me to a spectacular edifice that occupies the northeast corner of the square and demonstrated one of the reasons that this striking square serves as the cultural center of the city. The Teatro Angela Peralta, or Angela Peralta Theater, houses a large concert hall, galleries, an art school and a music and dance conservatory. Angela Peralta, called “The Mexican Nightingale,” was one of the world’s famous divas in the late 1800’s. She was scheduled to sing at Mazatlan’s fledgling opera house in 1883, but so spirited was her welcoming that she performed beforehand from the balcony of her hotel. Sadly, she became sick and died from yellow fever before she could appear at the theater.

Initially built from 1869 to 1874, it experienced an extensive restoration from 1987 to 1992, resulting in an immense artistic and cultural contribution to this relatively young city. Marble floors led me to crisp white outside walls with simple wooden doors which opened to a first floor inner courtyard. This pristine area matches the exterior in color, accented with rich burgundy walls that circle the exterior of the theater. Entering the theater, I gasped involuntarily as the size and height became apparent, colored in softer burgundy with white walls that brace the exquisite domed ceiling. Walking up the steps to the second level provided me with the option of stepping outside and viewing the white courtyard decorated in striking Carnaval posters. Approaching the art galleries and turning around revealed the crisp symmetry and beauty of the restoration planning and implementation. Upon exiting, the almost garish pink ticket booth, accessorized by the ubiquitous Carnaval signs, clashed politely with its surroundings.

Echoing the now familiar color scheme, the venerable Machado Hotel stunned me with brilliant reddish - burgundy exterior walls sharpened with precisely outlined white trim. A similarly painted balustrade of wood and iron provided beauty and safety for likely second floor balcony visitors like me who eagerly admired the view. Going inside, colorful and distinctive pieces of Mexican artwork dress up large white walls and, as far as I’m concerned, the picture of the young native child is fortunate to still be there. The only hotel on the plaza contains six sizable rooms with high ceilings, deluxe bathrooms and original Mexican art.

The Plaza itself features an actively used raised bandstand in its center which is framed by an array of colorful restaurants that beg for attention and appeal to all whose taste for great Mexican food never tires. These striking restaurants circle the square, all colorfully painted with contrasting awnings and outside seating.

Lest I begin to think that Mexican food is the only type of offering available, the more cosmopolitan nature of this seemingly sleepy city is reflected in menus of more diverse backgrounds. One example is Uni Sushi, a restaurant with platefuls of various types of raw fish, abundant in this the fishing capital of Mexico. Beyond local fare, additional vibrant restaurants, whose offerings range from hamburgers and fries to exquisite fish dishes, the pride of Mazatlan, vied for my attention. Of course, universally recognized Coca Cola signs flash everywhere.

Wandering just off the plaza led me to Pura Vida, meaning pure life in Spanish, which appears at both first and second blush to sell a sizable array of fruit and vegetable drinks, various types of smoothies and nutritional beverages. Further inspection revealed a classy separate menu with exquisite salads and soup which I ate outside on a wrought iron table underneath an orange-brown umbrella. Taking a close look at the facing outer wall of a building across the street revealed a plaque celebrating a visit to Mazatlan by the poet Allen Ginsberg, placed there by the city’s Historical Society in 2008.

Reluctantly departing, I noted with heartwarming pleasure that the square was fittingly guarded by the quintessential Mexican man with classic cowboy boots, a chiseled and weathered face, a spotless cowboy hat covering white hair and a watchful eye. Seeing this exemplification of dignity in juxtaposition with a large gathering of balloons brought into perspective for me what Mazatlan represents: a meaningful history coupled with a youthful, celebratory spirit.

Image picture credits: Lance Kramer