The Mexican Pelican on Mazatlan’s MaleconA Great Walk Interruptedby Lance Kramer It was, at first glance, just another pelican taking a break from its food search efforts. Why the pelican chose to rest near two small fishing boats named “Pelican’s” and “Pelikano” was likely coincidental. But when it calmly remained on its perch on the side of yet another boat and didn’t flinch as I slowly approached, camera in hand, time seemed to stand still.
The well-known malecon, or boardwalk, of Mazatlan follows more than 10.5 kilometers of beautiful beaches and is home to 9 monuments and a small fishing fleet. Facing due west, glorious sunsets bring open mouthed awe for visitors and natives alike (truth be known, virtually every map of Mazatlan is rotated 90 degrees from the traditional north – south orientation, evoking puzzled looks and momentarily confused travelers.) It begins at the southernmost sector of “The Pearl of the Pacific,” as Mazatlan is known, holding up the south central Golden Zone serving acquisitive tourists, the central Hotel Zone containing the classic older hotels and northern Neuvo Mazatlan where new resorts flank the beautiful marina.   A walk northward reveals the first of many monuments, The Deer Monument, revered for its reflection of Mazatlan’s early heritage. The Mazatlan Woman Monument strikes an open armed, welcoming pose to strangers and friends. Reflecting woman’s many real and  imagined forms, The El Clavadista  Monument is a seated mermaid with a small child alongside. Large and splendidly cast dolphins in spouting fountains lead a life sized naked man and woman emerging from a snail shell, beautifully captured in The Continuity of Life Monument.
It was at this point on my meandering north stroll that a number of small, colorfully painted fishing boats on Los Pinos Beach caught my eye. Haphazard orderliness, I thought, finding beauty in their  symmetrical uncertainty. Walking past a confrontation with an aggressive fisherman displaying a skinned manta ray for our admiration, I spotted a sunning pelican perched on the seating plank of a small boat looking balefully out to sea. The boats, the bay and the beach combined to create a unique, sun-blest photographic opportunity. Now, if the bird would just appreciate the beauty of the moment and cooperate …  Stepping carefully over the wall separating the malecon from the sand, a slow  stalking duck walk interrupted by frequent camera clicks brought me closer. The pelican slowly rotated its head, keeping its large, moist black left eye on the approaching stranger. An occasional fluttering of its wings widened my eyes but did not lead to its taking flight. Twice opening its mouth, the pelican remained silently quiescent in the afternoon sun. As I looked more closely, it was surprising to see that the bird’s feet rested calmly on the plank, not gripping the edge as I would have expected.
  There we were: the entire length of the malecon lying in the background studded with occasional mid rise buildings, the water lapping gently on the sand, a calm pelican sitting lightly on a boat and a nervous but thrilled photographer. Sort of a Mexican standoff, I supposed. Pushing my luck, I came even closer and noticed the hooked ends of the beak, the sagging lower section of the mouth that held its catch and the dappled grey – beige – brown colors of overlapping feathers {insert picture number nine here}. One more duck walk step and I was nearly close enough to touch it. Snapping away, the sound of the camera shutter seemed deafening. Suddenly the pelican arched its back, spread its wings, grappled the edge of the boat with its claws and took flight. The space that a moment ago was full of life was now eerily empty.
Standing and stretching my aching thighs, I was reminded of that old limerick: “A wonderful bird is the pelican; his beak can hold more than his belly can …” Mazatlan’s malecon has brought life to limerick in a special, surprising way. Picture credits: Lance Kramer |
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