Fiji’s Fantastical Rhythms
by Irene Butler
 A
tepid breeze gently rocked my hammock strung between coconut trees, a stones
throw from the expanse of cream-coloured sand and the dazzling blue of the
Pacific. “This is as close to paradise as earthy possible,” I muse, as I
wave to Lusia, my ‘butler’ who comes my way with an exotic cocktail of fresh
pineapple, papaya and Bounty Rum. Yes, a butler service is a bit of added
indulgence provided with a bure (bungalow) at Outrigger on the Lagoon
Resort.
Nothing could entice me away from this delightful cocoon…except a pampering
spa treatment. I was driven upward by porters to the Bebe Spa cresting
Lomalagi Hill to enjoy the same breathtaking panorama of the Coral Coast as
a bebe or butterfly. Encapsulated in one of the Hydrotherapy Treatment
chambers, I surrendered to gentle water fingers pulsing in a fluid massage
over my body (that had been previously lathered with a blend of therapeutic
oils and mud), while my only exposed part was treated to a soothing facial
massage by Praveena’s expertise. All was followed by a soak in an open-air
spa bath with the same unrivalled view, making this spa a departure from the
ordinary.
 My “job”(big smile) other
than enjoying the surf, sand and sun, was to wheel around Viti Levu, the
largest of the Fiji’s 330 islands to see “what’s new”. This quest led me to
the Shangri-La’s Fijian Resort & Spa on the 109-acre Yanuca Island joined by
a causeway to Viti Levu. New to the resort is the Living Reef Conservation
Centre. Director Mereoni
Mataika passionately led me through the colourful centre where marine
conservation comes to life with hands-on learning for kids, and for all ages
displays of coral regeneration farms, mangrove ecosystem rejuvenation,
environmental hazards, and sustainable fisheries.
The Shangri-La’s CHI Spa (opened in 2008) tempted me with their “Dusk till
Dawn Package”. The evening
started with a swirling away of tension in a Himalayan Water Bath while my
taste buds relished a fresh fruit platter. Chi Skin Polish, Aromatic Steam
and Aroma Vitality Massage were followed with a light delectable meal before
retiring in a private bure for the evening. Dawn brought a tinkling bell
wake-up, a scrumptious breakfast and Chi facial before entering the real
world again with a parting gift and a lasting impression.
A craving for adventure led me to southern Viti Levu’s Pacific Harbour,
proclaimed “The Adventure Capital of Fiji”. The Uprising Beach Resort, not
only has dorm accommodations that are ubiquitous to the area, but also
beachfront and garden view bures for those, like myself, who fancy a bit
more luxury after an adventurous outing. There was not a chance of going
hungry or thirsty with the great restaurant and two bars after a day of
expending energy at such activities as snorkelling in world-renowned coral
reefs, shark diving, game fishing, white water rafting, or zip-lining.
 I
chose ZipFiji for my adrenaline rush. On
the 4x4 ride up to the tour site director Daniel Metcalf explained how no
tree was cut to build the line; instead they were tugged to the side with
cable that would not harm the bark, and that the platforms affixed to huge
SA Trees (scientific name Parinari Insularum) with the same care. Kitty fit
me into a harness (hopefully this nick-name for seemingly having nine lives
was not zip-line related). Mike gave me the simple instructions and soon I
was “tree surfing”, gliding with wild abandon 30 metres above the
emerald forest floor, whooshing from platform to platform, reaching speeds
up to thrilling 60 km/hour.
Back at the Uprising I gazed across the bay at Beqa Island, home of the
legendary firewalkers. Oral history recounts how long ago they were given
the power by a spirit god to walk barefoot across scorching rocks with no
ill effects, and have since passed this ability through their bloodline.
Upon learning that a group of these firewalkers would perform their over
300-year-old ceremony at the nearby Arts Village, I was first on the scene.
 The
rocks had been covered with burning wood for six hours and I felt the
intense heat radiating from the mound. The ceremony began with Chief Rusiate
Roko Tavo calling upon six warriors to ritualistically remove the burning
wood and level the rocks with poles; then place leafy branches around the
circle of rocks to keep the spirit god’s power inside. I cringed as one by
one they not only walked across, but stood upon the smouldering rocks. I had
taken a photo of the bottom of the chief’s son’s size 12’s before and after
the ceremony, and unbelievably and inexplicably there was no difference.
 The next morning I was
whisked away by yet another driver from Rosie Holidays, my dependable mode
of transportation between resorts. The welcoming drums beat as we pulled up
the lane to the InterContinental Fiji Golf Resort & Spa that opened in May
of 2009. As I walked along the 150-metre promenade that joins a restaurant
and gift shops to the remainder of the resort, I gave a peripherally
approaching train a curious glance, and then became bug-eyed.
The metal gates in front of me were swung shut by attendants across
the middle of the walkway and a diesel powered sugarcane train rolled across
between the sizable stone pillars that held up a second level promenade.
How eco-tourism is that! – to have not re-routed the long-established rail
line that runs from the surrounding cane farming areas of Sigatoka to the
crushing mills 50 km away in Latuoka; not to
mention a riveting iconic addition to this luxury resort. The waving
Indo-Fijian engineer was no doubt a descendent of one of the many indentured
plantation labourers brought to Fiji by the British Colonial government
between 1879 and 1916.
After a round of golf at the their adjacent world class golf course, I spent
my time relishing leisurely walks along the two kilometres of white sandy
beach and put to good use the signature Cleopatra style bath tub and day
beds gracing my private terrace.
 To experience more of the
indigenous Fijian culture, I rose early one morning for the Sigatoka River
Safari. A van brought me to the boat departure point where I joined a group
large enough to fill two of the specially designed jet
 boats. With Captain Jack
Sparrow (a.k.a. Josh) at the helm we skimmed over Fiji’s longest river past
cliffs of marble, verdant hillsides, and subsistence farms on our way to the
remote village of Koronisagana. This is one of twelve villages which the
safari visits throughout the year; 6 villages once a week for
 a half-year, than the next
6 for the following half-year. This method gives each of these villages
extra income, while not encroaching unduly on their traditional way of life.
Chief
Aipate’s house brimmed with hospitality as we sat on mats with the villagers
for the welcoming Kava drinking ceremony. Made from a cousin of the pepper
plant this tongue numbing, earth tasting beverage is used for celebratory
occasions. This was followed by a folk dance lesson with spry adults and
giggling children and a lavish feast the women had prepared in their
rudimentary communal kitchen.
A
heart-warming, memorable day.
 My last day was spent at
the Fiji Orchid Resort, once the homestead of the late Canadian actor
Raymond Burr (for those of us who remember him from the 60’s and 70’s TV
series as Perry Mason and Ironside). This resort, a mere 20 minutes away
from Nadi International Airport offers half-day or full-day reprieves
between coming in from a remote resort and flight time, as well as night
stays. A swim in the pool and a walk in the surrounding five acres of
gardens filled my time until I leisurely partook in gourmet cuisine while
watching one last spectacular sunset – a fitting farewell.
In a (coco) nut shell, there is something for everyone in Fiji whether
adventurer or beach bum, or anything in between. The population adopts you
the minute you arrive and the islands confer a rare tranquility being that
the total population numbers less than 900,000. To Tourism Fiji’s catch
phrase “Fiji me” – I say, “anytime”.
For more info:
www.fijime.com
www.outriggerfiji.com
www.shangri-la.com
www.uprisingbeachresort.com
www.intercontinental.com
www.fijiorchid.com
www.zip-fiji.com
www.sigatokariver.com
Photo Credit: Irene Butler
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