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Deviled Eggs

by Carole Kotkin

Some recipes pass the test of time, and deviled eggs is one of those recipes. I always think of this classic dish when I'm planning a brunch, a picnic, or an informal gathering. Deviled eggs are simple to prepare and can be made well in advance. By strict definition, deviled eggs are stuffed eggs made by combining the firm yellow centers of hard-cooked eggs with mayonnaise, seasonings and hot pepper sauce. Only your imagination will limit your ideas for the filling.

Even though it may be counterintuitive, older eggs work better than store-bought fresh for boiling and peeling. Check the date on the carton, or buy eggs a week in advance of cooking.

Despite its name, a boiled egg shouldn't be boiled (which will yield rubbery results) but rather immediately removed from the heat once the cooking water comes to a boil. I call them “hard cooked” eggs. Place eggs in a saucepan large enough to accommodate them in a single layer. Fill pan with cold water, covering eggs by 1 inch. Bring water to a boil over medium-high heat. Turn off heat, cover, and let stand undisturbed for 10 to 15 minutes depending on the size of the egg and preferred consistency. For a just set yolk and a tender white, 12 minutes is just right; for a slightly firmer egg let it sit for 15 minutes. Once the hard-cooked egg is cooked, transfer it with a slotted spoon to a bowl of ice water (this will prevent that unsightly green around the yolk and facilitate peeling); let stand 2 minutes, then crack by gently pressing egg against a hard surface, so the shell breaks in tiny pieces. Start at the rounded end (where the air sac is) and peel under cold, running water.

You can make the deviled eggs up to 2 days in advance. Wrap the peeled egg-white halves tightly with plastic wrap and place the filling in a zipper-lock plastic bag. Refrigerate until ready to fill and serve.

Transfer the filling to a pastry bag fitted with a plain or open-star tip or force the filling into one corner of a plastic zipper-loc bag and twist the bag to keep the filling in the corner. Using scissors, snip off about ½ inch of the corner of the bag. Squeeze the pastry bag or plastic bag to pipe the filling into the egg whites. Alternatively, you can fill them with a teaspoon, but it’s not as attractive as the pastry bag.

If the eggs don’t sit flat on the serving plate, slice off a small piece of white from the rounded bottom.

Add to the basic yolk mixture 1 teaspoon finely chopped thyme, parsley, chives, or dill; 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, 1-1/2 teaspoons sherry vinegar and ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper for a more “deviled” flavor.

Assorted garnishes, such as anchovy fillets, caviar, creme fraiche, crumbled bacon, sun-dried tomato strips, capers, curry powder,  kalamata olive strips, fresh tarragon, fresh thyme, fresh cilantro, cooked shrimp, or toasted cumin seeds add a gourmet touch.

Michael Schwartz’  Deviled Eggs

This recipe is adapted from those on the menu at Michael’s Genuine Food and Drink in Miami’s Design District.

Makes 12

8 hard-cooked eggs
½ cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Coarse salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley for garnish
1/2 teaspoon paprika for garnish

Peel eggs and cut in half, either lengthwise or crosswise. Michael cuts his crosswise.  Carefully scoop out yolks, and arrange whites on a platter or tray. Reserve 4 of the egg-white halves for another use.

In the bowl of a food processor, process egg yolks, mayonnaise, and lemon juice until smooth. Season with salt and black pepper.

Transfer egg yolk mixture to a pastry bag fitted with a large plain or star tip. Pipe mixture carefully and very neatly into egg halves; top with parsley and a sprinkling of paprika. Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until ready to use, up to 3 hours


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