McAllen, Texas

Winter Texans and Dedicated Birders

by Robert Painter

Did you know there is a hand-drawn ferry that crosses the Rio Grande? Do you know that you can actually pull on the rope yourself? Most of the Winter Texans that cross over in to Mexico on the ferry just do it for the fun of it. There is a small town nearby, but it’s a pretty long walk. It’s a quaint little Mexican town with a bandstand in the center of the plaza and a few stores that very few of the Winter Texans ever see. They’re more likely to visit Progresso where there is plenty of shopping and quite a few really good restaurants, like Arturo’s. Instead of the ferry it’s a pleasant and fairly short walk across the border. Of course, if you’re a serious shopper you might want to drive your car to haul back all the great bargains.

I don’t know how many of the Winter Texans (that’s the name given to the nice folks that visit McAllen and the surrounding towns) are birders, but I can tell you that many of them do come primarily to see the birds and make new additions to their “life lists.” There are over 500 of North America’s species in this area and it is probably the most popular birder paradise in the U.S.  About 50 of these birds are unique to the Lower Rio Grande Valley area of South Texas. It seems that every town has its own preserve. Each has its own unique personality and some have birds not to be readily found in the other ones. I guess that’s one of the reason some of these birders come down for a month or two at a time. 

Of course, some of the Winter Texans are what people in Florida call snowbirds. Some have residences in Texas as well as back home in Iowa or Michigan or Illinois or some other snowy spot up north. It seems that houses are pretty reasonable here and, as you might have guessed, there are also a lot of parks available for those who drive down in their mobile homes. I visited one park that had spaces with cute little coach houses on the lot. Not only that, they even had new homes for sale at the same park - not mobile homes or manufactured homes, but conventional construction. A great idea for a really diverse neighborhood. 

There is a lot more here than you might imagine. The birding is fantastic, but I found the symphony to be equally engaging. Can you imagine a small city symphony with a chorus of over 100 members?

And a visit to IMAS, the International Museum of Art & Science is something you’ll really enjoy. In addition to a fine permanent collection they have a series of visiting exhibits. The “Torture Instruments Through the Ages” exhibit was fascinating. I wouldn’t recommend it for very young children, but the extensive display will really make you think. I can’t help wondering how anyone could even dream of some of the things I saw there. I won’t try to describe the exhibit - but, I do think it is very thought provoking and something you shouldn’t miss if you have the opportunity to visit.

Another real  treat is dining at the Riverside Club restaurant. Try to make it on a Tuesday, Thursday or weekend afternoon, Besides the delicious chicken fried chicken they have a dance floor and all the old timers get up and dance. I mean when was the last time you went to a dance and saw men and women actually holding each other in their arms? Everyone was having a great time and the place was packed. Live music, too. An added bonus - you can walk right outside and catch a riverboat cruise for an hour or so. It’s hard to imagine a better way to spend a winter afternoon than floating down a South Texas river in the sunshine while your friends and neighbors you left back home are out shoveling snow off the sidewalk. 

But let’s get back to the birds. Some of the preserves have wonderful walking paths and trails. Some are large and some are small. But they all have birds. I really enjoyed the “blinds” that are set up so you can get close to the birds without them knowing you’re there. Or at least without you disturbing them. I especially enjoyed the Green Jay, the Kiskadee and the chachalaca. I had never seen them before and the Jay and the Kiskadee were beautiful. The chachalaca reminded me of my native New Mexican roadrunners. They can both fly, but seem to prefer running along the ground. And both are very large birds.  And bright Cardinals were a treat as well.

It was interesting to see how excited some of the birders were to discover a new bird for the first time. I don’t have the patience to become a big time birder, but I certainly can understand the joy of making a new find. The Green Jay and the Kiskadee won’t soon be forgotten. It seems to be a great hobby. A field guide, a pair of good binoculars and, for some, a camera would appear to be the main ingredients. That mixed with an interest in preserving the environment, a bit of patience and the time to pursue this intriguing hobby could make for a lifetime of healthy outdoor adventure.

There appears to be something of a consortium under the rubric of World Birding Center that ties about 9 or so of these different birding sites together.  A website will be listed at the end of this story.

And, lest I forget, this is also a very popular place for butterflies. About 300 of North America’s 500 species.  If you come here in October  you may see them by the millions, many of them on their way south to Mexico and beyond. There are butterfly gardens specially devoted to plants that attract these beautiful creatures. If butterflies are your are a big part of your travel interest, you’ll want to attend the Texas Butterfly Festival in Mission, Texas.  You can pick up a Butterfly Checklist at the NABA International Butterfly Park and record your discoveries.                                                                                                                              

To top it all off there are even about 90+ species of odonates in the area.  Odonates, you ask?  A hint - the community of Weslaco celebrates its Dragonfly Days in mid-May.

After spending the day rambling through all the fabulous nature preserves and birding habitats you can be certain that McAllen has plenty of excellent dining opportunities.  From Mexican food at Koko’s to steaks at La Pampa or Santa Fe Steakhouse to Japanese cuisine at Kumori you won’t be disappointed.  And, plenty of other choices - stop by the McAllen Chamber website for a complete list of restaurants and hotels.  If you’re driving and looking for “on the go” food you can’t do better than Delia’s. Pick up a dozen tamales in your choice of pork, chicken, beef, bean & cheese or any one of a dozen other choices.

I stayed at the Renaissance Casa de Palmas on Main Street.  This a Marriott that is centrally located and beautifully appointed.  With attractive Spanish architecture if fits in well with the South Texas environment.  I had thought about staying at least one evening at the Alamo Inn in nearby Alamo, TX, but they were completely filled with birders.  I talked to one couple there that was   checked in for two months!  I did get to spend a day with Keith Hackland, the innkeeper who is also a very knowledgeable birder.

We visited a couple of the preserves including the Santa Ana National Wildlife Refuge.  The birders appear to be a congenial bunch who are quite willing to share their “finds” with others and are very helpful to beginners like me who may be having trouble spotting some of the birds.

I keep drifting back to the birds but I want to tell you about Smitty’s Juke Box Museum.  If you are of a certain age this place will definitely bring back some memories.  It’s well worth an hour of your time.

The Museum of South Texas History will give you a picture of what used to be here and how far this area has come.  The exhibits are well done and will complete your overall understanding of the Lower Rio Grande Valley.

Finally, for those of you who love the beach, it is only about an hour’s drive from McAllen to South Padre Island, home of some of the finest beaches in the country.

Keep on Traveling!

When You Go:

McAllen Convention & Visitors Bureau: www.mcallencvb.com.  Check here for the latest event calendar and help in planning your visit.

Renaissance Casa de Palmas Hotel: www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/mfebr‑renaissance‑casa‑de‑palmas‑hotel.

World Birding Center: www.worldbirdingcenter.org. Check in here and find out about the events and birding sites.  You can even listen to bird calls here!

Alamo, Texas: www.alamotexas.org.

Mission, Texas: www.missionchamber.com.

Weslaco, Texas: www.weslaco.com.

Story and by Robert Painter: rpainter2006@comcast.net