Kosher Wines for Seder
By Darryl Beeson
 “Passover, or Pesach as we call it, is a holiday that
brings family and friends together at the table,” says Adam Montefiore,
International Marketing Director for Carmel, Israel’s oldest winery. “Wine
is an integral part of the celebration. Four glasses are drunk throughout
the meal and of course, it must be Kosher.” The good news is that wines
within this category are improving exponentially in quality.
Passover (April 16th, 2003), known as the Jewish
‘Festival of Liberation’, ‘The Spring Festival’ and ‘The Festival of Matzah’
begins at sundown on Wednesday, April 16, 2003 and lasts for eight days and
eight nights. Passover has both historical and agricultural significance
within the Jewish community, but the primary observance of Passover is
related to the Exodus from Egypt in 1312 BC. This year, millions of Jewish
families, often joined by non-Jewish friends, will sit down together at a
special meal known as a Seder. The Passover Seder is rich with historical
meaning and takes place on the first two nights of the holiday. A tray of
symbolic foods, also known as the Seder plate, is traditionally found at the
head of the table. This Seder plate prominently displays the various
symbolic foods that will be discussed throughout the meal, each one having a
specific meaning relevant to the holiday.
As with other Jewish holidays, wine is an integral part
of the Passover Seder and is considered a symbol of joy and happiness.
Throughout the meal a blessing is made and a cup consumed. This happens four
times to signify the four expressions of freedom. Don’t be surprised when
you are asked to spill a small amount of wine or dip your finger into the
glass ten times during the reciting of the Ten Plagues, a common practice
during this meal. A symbolic fifth cup of wine is poured and a door opened
for the Biblical Prophet Elijah to come and drink.
Carmel is Israel’s most established winery, overseen by
Baron Edmond de Rothschild, producing Kosher wine for over 120 years. “Many
people think that all Kosher wines are sweet and syrupy. There is nothing in
Kosher wine law that mandates the style of wine,” says Montefiore. “Kosher
wines can be dry table wines, off-dry, dessert or sparkling. Carmel produces
a complete range of wines, including the sweet variety (Kiddush wines) that
are still traditional for certain ceremonies.
An old Yiddish proverb says “Over the bottle many a
friend is found” a saying that is sure to prove true this year at the Seder
table. Twenty years ago, Rothschild learned a lesson about winemaking from
Languedoc-born winemaker, Pierre Miodownick. Pierre showed him that he could
produce kosher versions of his best Bordeaux wines without compromising
quality. Today, other renowned wines in Bordeaux, such as Chateau Giscors,
Chateau Leoville Poyferre, and most recently, Chateau Pontet Canet are
following the Baron's lead and also produce kosher versions of their famous
wines in collaboration with Miodownick. Many contend that the only
difference between the kosher and non-kosher versions of these wines is that
the kosher versions were produced by Sabbath-observant Jews. In some
instances, the kosher wine has been so good, the chateau has bought it back
to bottle using their standard, non-kosher label.
Kosher Wine Reviews:
 Abarbanel Cremant D'Alsace, France N.V.
Price $16
Rating 86
This Cremant is made from the Pinot Blanc grape which
is best known for delicateness, suppleness and balance. It is fermented in
the bottle. Serve slightly chilled, preferably in a tall, fluted glass.
Kosher for Passover. O-U certified. Mevushal. This bubbly is perfect for a
wedding or Bar/Bat Mitzvah.
Abarbanel Gewürztraminer, Alsace Mevushal 2000
Price $18
Rating 87
The only genuine Alsacian kosher and mevushal
Gewurztraminer comes from Abarbanel. There are instantaneous assaults of
sugar and spice, oak and herbs. Some believe that Gewurztraminers are
perhaps one of the only white wines that can stand up to steak.
Abarbanel Riesling, Alsace 1999
Price $18
Rating 89
"A lovely example showing typical characteristics of
Alsatian versions of these varietals. It is dry, showing some mineral, and
is more subtle than their Gewürztraminer," in the opinion of Jewish wine
critic Glenn Verk.
Abarbanel "Roberto Cohen" Sancerre Rouge, Loire 2001
Price $34
Rating 86
"Light and bright," suggests Jewish wine critic Glenn
Verk, "it is flowery, yet with some grip. Fun, but not worth the price." Red
wines from the Loire are often served slightly chilled. Match this wine with
lighter, delicate cuisine.
 Beckett's Flat Shiraz, Margaret River 2001
Price $24
Rating 89
This red displays sweet ripe berry fruit and peppery
spices. Only 600 cases made. This wine is ideal for steak and has everything
you'd want in a high-end Aussie red -- durability, character, zest. Kosher
for Passover and Mevushal. For more information, visit
www.kosher-wine.com.
Beckett's Flat Sauvignon/Semillon, Margaret River
2001
Price $20
Rating 88
Pronounced tropical fruit sweetness and herbaceous
notes combined with a balanced acidity for a touch of tartness. Perfect with
fish of any kind. Kosher for Passover and Mevushal. Only 600 cases made. For
more information, visit
www.kosher-wine.com.
 Carmel Emerald Riesling and Chenin Blanc, Israel
2002
Price $9.99
Rating 89
Aromas of fresh, tart apple followed by flavors of
fresh, drish apple. Clean mineral and complex components through the good
length. This wine stole the show during a blind tasting. It is neither too
dry, nor too sweet. This may be the perfect wine for a family gathering. For
more information, go to
www.carmelwines.com.
Carmel Sauvignon Blanc, Israel 2001
Price $11
Rating 88
This wine is produced by the cold fermentation method
so that the natural fruity characteristics of the varietals are retained in
the wine. Pale gold in color, this is a relatively dry, full bodied wine. It
is fruity with good acidity and a pleasant hint of residual sugar in the
finish.
Carmel "Private Collection" Chardonnay, Israel 1999
Price $26
Rating 87
Subtle apple and white fruit flavors with hints of fig
and a bit of spice.
Carmel "Private Collection" Merlot, Israel
Price $26
Rating 92
Rich plum and mulberry on the nose, followed by flavors
of blackberry and dark earth. There is a long, complex length.
 Dalton Estate Canaan White, Israel 2002
Price $18
Rating 89
Observes Jewish wine critic (and humorist) Glenn Verk,
"This blend is like a kosher "Conundrum" (a highly sought after medium-dry
white wine from California). So, let’s call it “Conniption”. Either way,
this is a crowd-pleaser. A Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling
combination, medium pushing full body, it possesses an interesting melding
of flavors with a hint of floral sweetness."
Dalton Merlot Reserve, Israel 2000
Price $25
Rating 89
“Intense and lively, with generous plum, wild berry and
light hints of oak and vanilla, this rich and complex wine borders
comfortably on elegance. The wine is aged in small oak casks for a year, and
has nice lingering aftertastes. The wine is drinking well now but should
cellar comfortably until at least 2004.” says Daniel Rogov, Ha’aretz (July
2002).
Dalton Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Israel 1999
Price $25
Rating 89
“After two years in oak this deep royal purple medium
to full-bodied wine is still young and tight but already opens to reveal
ripe wild berry, black cherry, currant fruits and generous hints of mint and
vanilla in its flavors and aromas. Well focused, concentrated and balanced,
the wine will drink nicely now if you give it 15-20 minutes to open in the
glass but will be at its best from 2003-2006.” as reviewed by Daniel Rogov,
Ha’aretz (July 2002).
 Layla Malbec, Chile 2000
Price $14.99
Rating 89
"Dark and supple with some leather and black cherry.
Good, and a good value," says Jewish wine critic Glenn Verk. Malbec made its
way to South America from the Bordeaux region of France during the last
quarter of the 19th century. The grapes for this wine come from mature vines
and hail from Chile's oldest family estate and winery. Malbec is one of the
orginal noble varietals of Bordeaux and has survived in its original form
primarily in South America owing to various blights which affected many
French vineyards over the past century. Malbec will remind some of Merlot in
color and texture and also of Cabernet Sauvignon in its ability to mature in
the bottle and due to the higher levels of tannins.
 Yarden Blanc De Blanc, Israel 1997
Price $17
Rating 89
This Méthode Champenoise bubbly was reviewed by Jewish
wine critic Glenn Verk, observing "a light straw color, pleasant slightly
yeasty nose, medium body, dry with good acid balance and soft apple tones."
This wine is Kosher for Passover; but is not mevushal. Some suggest trying
this wine with medium grilled fish in hearty sauces, or grilled marinated
chicken, fried chicken, chicken in light sauce, or duck in a light sauce.
Yarden “Katzrin” Chardonnay, Israel 2000
Price $26
Rating 89
Observes Jewish wine critic Glenn Verk, "This white has
pretty oak and a sweet apple-blossom nose, and there is a bit of soft
tartness with a hint of citrus." This wine is Kosher for Passover; but is
not mevushal. Barrel fermentation and aging, along with partial malolactic
fermentation, yields a complex wine balaned both with butter and oak
Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon, Israel 1999
Price $26
Rating 90
Observes Jewish wine critic Glenn Verk, "This wine
receives 18 months of aging in French oak, and though unfiltered and a bit
cloudy, the earthy nose is elegant and complex, though maybe not bone dry."
This wine is Kosher for Passover; but is not mevushal. This wine will
complement complex, intensely-flavored foods, such as leg of lamb stuffed
with mixed wild mushrooms, roasted sirloin with a red-wine-reduction sauce
or truffled pasta.
Wine on table photo courtesy of the Israel Ministry of
Tourism
Darryl Beeson travels the world looking for great wine
values. In the past, he has been wine steward or cellar master for The Mansion
on Turtle Creek, Voltaire, and The Adolphus Hotel. Not one for stuffiness or
secret handshakes relative to wine, this Texan might now be described as a "ki-yi-yippee
sommelier, sommelier." Beeson reports on wine, spirits, food and travel for
numerous publications.
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