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White Stallion Ranch by Judy Babcock Wylie Forget the Cleaver family. When Im reincarnated I want to come back as a member of the True family, who own the White Stallion Ranch in Tucson, Arizona. Here is a true family, pun intended: one whose members work together, live close together, get to ride horseback every day, and eat steak at least once a week. Dont worry if you havent been fortunate enough to land in this tribe this time around. It will seem like you have anyway when you book a weeks stay at the White Stallion Guest Ranch and are treated like a long -lost relative.
White Stallion is an old-fashioned, family-owned dude ranch spread over 3,000 acres at the foot of the Tucson Mountains. At dinner the first night matriarch Cynthia True, 70, warmly welcomed each of us newcomers by name from her place of honor at the head of the table, and said a sincere , heartfelt farewell to each person leaving, sharing personal stories of their week.. Her son Russell, the ranch manager, who looks more like a trusted local insurance man than a cowboy, sat nearby. Its a small ranch, but we own it, he says with pride. My folks bought it in 1965, but its been a dude ranch since 1945. Thanks to the Tucson Mountains National Park that runs along its border, its the only ranch out of 200 dude ranches in the state which has five square miles of open desert to ride in. Riding is the name of the game here, where thanks to the 80 horses who live at the ranch, guests saddle up for four rides a day, from slow rides to fast trots, on trails through the towering saguaro cactus forest in the desert or nearby mountains. There are also breakfast rides, all-day rides and chuck wagon cook-out rides . But you cant just get on your steed and say Giddyup!. We test everyone for their riding skill level. when they arrive. Some people think riding a horse is like getting on a ride at Disneyland, you just buckle up and go. They soon learn its not quite like that., Russell gives a slow smile. Each guest must pass the fast ride test before being permitted along on the more challenging rides.
I heard about this early in my stay. Most of the trim white stucco cottages with simple brown board shutters look alike, and one afternoon my door opened suddenly as another guest, ten-year- old Evan, started into my casita by mistake, surprising us both. I asked why he hadnt been on the afternoon ride that was now just returning to the main corral, passing my casita at a dignified pace as we watched. Oh thats a Slow ride, he said with barely veiled disgust, noting he was beyond that now,. He had passed the test for the Fast ride, and couldnt be bothered to go on the pokey one anymore. Inside cottage #4, the walls were rough- hewn pecky cedar. Horseshoes doubled as coat racks, and the double bed and a twin bed both had turquoise and pink spreads in a vaguely Indian design. Mexican leather and bent willow chairs and table were arranged by a wall hung with a Mexican rug. The overhead lamp had tiny saguaro cactuses and mountains in bas relief. Looking out the window to a desert garden, I noticed a cactus wren popping out of its nest in a huge saguaro cactus a few feet away. On Saturday afternoon the ranch hands put on a rodeo. Since most of us had only seen rodeos on TV, it was surprising how the sport came alive when Russell explained such facts as how bronco riders often cant ride normal horses very well, how easy it is to lose a finger if the rope catches wrong when youre roping, and why barrel racing is usually a womans event.
Meanwhile, the baby longhorns, just a year old, were herded toward chutes to get roped. Rolling their big eyes and batting their impossibly long lashes did no good. They still got released one by one to be wrassled to the ground by the ranch hands, to the cheers of guests. Russells brother Michael is a pro rodeo rider, and quickly made it look easy. But it was hard to concentrate on the action because the Tuscon Mountains rising as a back drop kept hoggng the show, Panther Peak looming over us in blue, pink and coral splendor in the slanting light.
Later the air filled with mesquite smoke as Russell and Michael grilled steaks outside on the brick patio, served with a buffet including green beans flavored with bacon, baked potatoes and French bread.. We ate inside seated in Mexican chairs at long heavy wooden tables. Dessert was peach pie and ice cream. Although I was there alone, it was easy to meet and fall into conversation with other guests, one reason a ranch vacation is perfect for the solo traveler. At the table there was plenty of conversation about the recent team penning , a popular ranch activity every week where three guests on horseback are taught out to cut three animals out of a herd and make them enter a pen. Everyone loves it because team penning is like real ranch work. said Russell. There was a lot of laughter at the table about who usually won, the guests or the steer. Another activity everyone loves is the breakfast ride and cookout, where eggs and pancakes served out in the desert are washed down with lots of cowboy coffee. Some people who come here never get on a horse. There is tennis, hiking, bird watching, a heated swimming pool and an indoor redwood hot tub. The White Stallion Ranch is a winter guest ranch, open from October through May, so there are few children among the guests except during holidays and school breaks.. In October and November guests include younger couples under 45, and a lot of singles, especially women. One was Dagmar, a German guest I met over a drink one evening during the cocktail hour in the ranchs Happy Hour Saloon., where you can saddle up to the bar on real western saddles that serve as bar stools. She said Germans are crazy about American dude ranches and stay two or three weeks thanks to their long vacations. The guest book also lists signatures from 51 other countries, including Romania and Malta..
White Stallion is small, only 35 rooms and suites. The family feeling and reasonable rates mean the ranch gets a lot of repeat guests, so its best to book early, six to 12 months ahead if you want to go during the busy season from mid-December through April. Other times of year you can sometimes call on shorter notice and find a spot. Sam and Val Scopellite from Gilbert, Arizona, have been coming twice a year for five years, they told me as they dove into their steaks at dinner one evening.. We tell ourselves its for the riding and the atmosphere, but actually the Trues are the main reason. They make us feel like family.. Rates range from $208 per room per day for two for a room to $288 for a deluxe suite, during low season, from October through Mid-November. The rates are $228 to $340 per room for two people during the high season from December 19 of this year through the end of April, 1999. Rates do not include local taxes and a 15 percent service tax. Contact the White Stallion Guest Ranch at 9251 W. Twin Peaks Rd Tuscon, AZ. 85743 520/297-0252 888/977-2624. http://www.whitestallion.com http//www.arizonaguide.com/visittucson Back to TravelLady Magazine |