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by MADELYN MILLER

Santa Fe, "The City of Holy Faith", has cast a spell over visitors for centuries. The sun casts alluring shadows on the mountains, desert and adobe that inspire the artists who give the soul to Santa Fe.

Santa Fe is a small city and you can see much of it on foot. Yet, there are 200 galleries and five museums -- more per capita than New York City.

It's a city that stimulates all the senses -- with a visual history of arts and crafts, a culinary tradition of local ingredients that inspired Southwestern Cuisine and a spirit that invigorates the mind and soul.

It's the playground of the rich and famous (a trend started by the conquistadors.) Ask a native to point out homes of the Hollywood stars in the hills. And sometimes I think Santa Fe is so uniquely beautiful that it must all be a Hollywood set created by a brilliant designer.

Where to Stay

As a frequent visitor to Santa Fe, I think there is a strategy in where to stay. For first timers, the best location is around the central square -- so you can walk everywhere (parking isn't easy anywhere) and absorb the "core" of Santa Fe.

A great hotel in the Historic Plaza, Inn of the Anasazi, 113 Washington Ave. 800-688-8100 or 505-988-3030, offers accommodations as beautiful and unusual as the setting. Authentic artwork of the region's diverse heritage blends with the intricate geometry of antique Indian rugs and hand-woven fabric. The organic toiletries are created locally with native cedar extract.

Another centrally located hotel, The Inn at Loretto, 211 Old Santa Fe Trail 800-727-5531 or 505-988-5531, is a terrific value. Part of the Best Western chain, it has large rooms and a warm Southwestern style. Their restaurant, Nellie’s serves some of the best gourmet Southwestern food in town and is probably my favorite.

After you've experienced "the inner city," it's great to stay further out at Bishop's Lodge, 505-983-6377. Actually three miles from the square (a five minute shuttle ride.)

For me, one of the thrills of traveling is capturing the real essence and history of an area. To do so, takes a little extra research to find a place to stay with character reflecting the setting that isn't part of a chain that looks the same in every city.

That's why in Santa Fe, I love to stay at the site of Jean Baptiste Lamy's, the first Bishop of Santa Fe's private retreat.

Lamy, a Frenchman, arrived in the New Mexico Territory in 1851, and the story of his pioneering adventures was later told by Willa Cather in her famous novel, Death Comes for the Bishop.

Lamy discovered a fertile valley planted with fruit trees by sixteenth century Franciscan fathers. Here he built a private retreat; his chapel still stands today.

Lamy's hospitality was famous, and an invitation to visit his country estate was an honor much sought after.

After the Archbishop's death, the land was acquired by the Pulitzer publishing family of St. Louis. Two large, rambling vacation homes were built. These became the beginnings of a new hotel in 1917 when James Thorpe of Denver bought the property.

For three generations, the Thorpe family has continued the tradition of hospitality begun by Lamy so long ago.

Nestled in the foothills of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, the Bishop's Lodge is only 1/2 mile north of the city limits of Santa Fe. It is bordered by the Santa Fe National Forest. To me, it is the best of both worlds -- city close and country quiet, interrupted by the howl of coyote on a nearby ridge, or an owl hooting from cottonwood tree.

The lodgings are in comfortable adobe-style compounds with an authentic Southwest touch. I visited on a cool, crisp late fall day and enjoyed the cozy fireplace in my room and loved helping myself to the generous supply of firewood left outside the door.

I took a guided horseback trip into the foothills of the mountain. Our guide, Jim Thorpe, seemed to understand the pacing needed for a rusty rider like myself (previous experience in summer camp, over 30 years ago).

Although I have certain favorite "must visit" restaurants in Santa Fe, I did have Sunday buffet brunch at the lodge and have added it to my list. A good value at $18, it had all the brunch regulars -- bacon, sausage, omelettes, pancakes, potatoes, roast beef, salmon plus an assortment of creative salad combinations
and casseroles. The lodge style is homey and cozy, and it is obviously popular with the natives.

Where to Eat

 This may be the culinary capital of the world. If you are a serious foodie, call at least a week ahead for reservations on the weekends.

Coyote Cafe, 132 Water St. 505-983-1615. Probably the most well-known restaurant in Santa Fe, it is synonymous with Southwestern Cuisine. Reservations are imperative but if you can't get one, stop by the bar, just to see the artwork and setting. The Coyote Cocina food line of sauces and salsa makes a nice gift or souvenir from Santa Fe.

Cafe Pasqual's, 121 Don Gasper 505-983-9340. This is my mecca in Santa Fe. I visit each time I return. The wait is ridiculous -- so put your name on the list and wander around at nearby galleries. I like to sit at the "community table" where you'll never know who your dining companions will be. Once I sat with a New York Times writer who was with a massage therapist. Northern New Mexican meals plus spicy Thai flavors.

Inn of the Anasazi, 113 Washington Ave. 505-988-3030. Foods of the earth from the Native American, foods of the soul from Northern New Mexico and foods of substance from the American Cowboy, grown by regional organic farmers and served in an elegantly earthy dining room.

SantaCafe, 231 Washington Ave. 800-252-8570 or 505-984-1788. I've only been lucky enough to eat here once, because it is so popular. It was ranked highest among Santa Fe restaurants in a recent Zagat Guide. Housed in a transformed historic adobe dating from 1857, the restaurant's minimalist decor and zen-inspired courtyard (with outdoor dining in season) provide the dramatic backdrop for the lively seasonal menu which features Asian and Southwestern ingredients and techniques brought together in an innovative way.

Santa Fe Skiing

 So many people who have skied at the Santa Fe Ski Area come away saying it is a great all-around mountain. It's not huge, but each of the 38 beginner, intermediate, and advanced runs is unique and offers its own satisfactions. Plus there are numerous un-named runs scattered all over the terrain. Everybody who skis at Santa Fe has a favorite run; the funny thing is that it often changes from day to day. That's because no matter what you're in the mood for, Santa Fe Ski Area can provide.

 From the 12,000-foot summit, there are 11,000 square miles of uninterrupted views. To the north and the west, you can see all the way to the Arizona and Colorado borders, and to the east, you can see the start of the Great Plains. From the lofty heights, intermediate skiers enjoy the tree-lined and secluded slopes of Sunset.

Advanced skiers can test their skills on runs like Burro Alley, a steep, narrow plummet down the mountain. For a deep-powder plunge through the trees, runs like Big Rocks or Tequila Sunrise take expert skiers into some of the fluffiest snow in New Mexico.

The same satisfying diversity is available for beginners, too. Santa Fe boasts a large, separate beginner slope and special packages to get first time skiers started. Once you have the basics down, the lower mountain has plenty of expansive, gentle slopes to help hone your skills.

There are two slope-side eateries at the Santa Fe Ski Area. One is Totemoff's Lodge, midway down the mountain, where you can stop to have a drink and a burger and bask in the sun on the ample deck. For more diverse offerings, try the cafeteria at the base, a spacious, sun-drenched room with big south-facing windows and an adjoining deck. You can sample a wide variety of food, including a hearty Frito pie, which rivals those served at Woolworth's on the Plaza, a city standard.

Santa Fe Ski Area averages more than 18 feet of snow a year so chances are good for finding plentiful powder to enjoy, and once the day is over, the city of Santa Fe can entertain you well into the wee hours.

Santa Fe Ski Area, Skier Information - 505-982-4429; Snow Conditions - 505-983-9155 and Lodging Information - 800-776-SNOW (7669).

Galleries Galore

Cristof's, 106 West San Francisco Street 505-988-9881, is considered one of the finest Indian Art Galleries in the nation. Best known for their fine quality contemporary Navajo textiles and weavings, the gallery also showcases original and unique handcrafts created by many fine Indian and Southwestern artisans. These wonderful selections of weavings and rugs are priced for collectors.

Kent Galleries -- The Contemporary Craftsman, 130 Lincoln Avenue 505-988-1001. You'll find fine furniture, ceramics, jewelry plus a great collection of glass, works on paper, handmade paper, tapestry and baskets.

Dewey Galleries, Ltd., 76 East San Francisco Street 505-982-8632. Distinctive American Indian art and jewelry, old Navajo textiles, Spanish Colonial furnishings and contemporary native American artists.

Shidoni Sculpture Gardens and Bronze Foundry. Five miles north of Santa Fe on Bishop's Lodge Road 505-988-8001. Since Bishop's Lodge is my favorite place to stay in Santa Fe, I feel this almost is like a neighborhood hangout and I visit there almost every Sunday morning when I'm in town. If you'd like to see them pouring bronze, stop by on Saturday afternoon.

Nedra Matteucci's Fenn Galleries, 1075 Paseo de Peralta 505-982-4631. Specializing in important historical American art and offering fine contemporary Southwestern paintings and sculpture including monumental works. The one acre outdoor sculpture garden is not to be missed!

The Rainbow Man, 107 East Palace Ave. 505-982-8706. The largest collection of Edward S. Curtis photography. Also specializing in fine American Indian pawn jewelry, Indian trade blankets, railroad and western memorabilia, collectible Hispanic and Native American folk art and fine crafts.

If you would like a customized tour, or have any questions, call Lynda J. Foshie, director Fine Art Tours, at 800-584-6830.

She is also president of the Santa Fe Gallery Association.

Night Life

This may be Santa Fe's weakest category. But after skiing, touring the galleries, checking out the museums, and browsing downtown, maybe all you want to do is eat a wonderful meal.

La Casa Sena Cantina, Sena Plaza, 135 East Palace Anevue, 505-988-9232. This is a popular place to enjoy gourmet continental cuisines and a great wine list while the talented waiters sing sophisticated show tunes.

Don't Miss

Flea Market  Weekends from March through October, located right next to the Santa Fe Opera. Best prices in town on Indian jewelry and crafts. The most upscale "flea market" I've ever been to, and I'm a shopaholic.

10,000 Waves, 505-982-9304. Indulge in an outdoor massage while nimble fingers soothe out any stress. Call ahead because this is a very popular place. If you are adventurous, have an underwater Watsu massage.

The Santa Fe Opera, 505-986-5908. The highlight of the summer season, plan far ahead to enjoy a world-class performance in a stunning open-air setting. Toughest weekend to get tickets is during the annual Indian Market at the end of August.

The Festivals and Indian Feasts  Call the Santa Fe Visitors and Convention Bureau at 800-984-9984 for more information and dates.

Pueblos  If you have time, visit one of the nearby pueblos. The best known is the Taos Pueblo, about 72 miles north of Santa Fe. One of the most striking things about Taos is the beauty of the two multistory adobe dwellings, the oldest continually occupied dwellings in the United States.

Tips

Southwest Airlines has the best fares and most flights to Albuquerque. Then it is one hour to Santa Fe. You may want to stop en route at the outlet mall, Santa Fe Factory Stores.

There are lots of trinket shops overtaking downtown. Museum shops, particularly the Institute of American Indian Arts, buy from top Native American artists. Be sure to look there for really unique items.

• Listen to Madelyn Miller interview with Santa Fe psychic Lumari on the TravelLady Talk page.

FOR MORE INFORMATION:

SANTA FE: 800-9849984
http://www.santafe.org
http://www.skisantafe.com

SOUTHWEST AIRLINES: 800-435-9792
http://www.southwest.com

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